nice, thats good to hear. In regards to the lean condition, are the injectors stock? I would go over that fuel pump install with a fine tooth comb. Look up other peoples how-to's on this and other forums and cross reference them with what you did to do the install. You said the old wires where melted in another thread so thats kind of a red flag. You can't just direct wire the fuel pump, because the ECU steps the voltage up and down depending on load. There are threads around here on how to properly rewire the fuel pump. Last make sure your battery is fully charged up and in good condition. A combo of large injectors and really low voltage can cause issues.

 

What i said was kinda vague what i meant was it wouldn't stop a running engine. He said his car died at a stop.

 

Ah.


Does the car still have a MAF? If it does, pull the air filter and make sure the screen is still in place and not bouncing around in the housing..

 

So as stated before car stayed running but running lean as could be. So decided to go back to what started this problem fuel pump. Old one burnt out and wire harness right above pump had a small amount melting going on. Now I was told by a shop that I had 12 volts of power at the pump at all time when motor was running. I'm not saying they were wrong but something told me the wiring had to be the fault. So I hard wired the fuel pump with a kit and presto car runs fine. So first lesson only buy oem sensors for now on and second lesson go with ur gut feeling.

 

I guess it's time to go with a aftermarket fpr. $240 is what I was priced. Any one got any good suggestions. I really only buy stuff from extreme psi since there close. And they have saved my *** with parts the dealers didn't even have.

Biggiesacks thanks for the info u were right on point with cam sensor thanks again..

 

Your welcome! Glad it worked out. It sounds like whats happening is your fuel pump is over running your stock FPR at idle and low load. There are 2 ways to deal with this: you can install a bigger FPR and probably upgraded return line (depending on how big your pump is). The other way, which is the OEM way, is to lower the voltage to the pump at idle/low load. The advantage of the oem way is that you arent pushing full power to the pump all the time and putting it under alot of strain when your fpr cannot keep up. Also it is alot quieter running at lower voltage then full power. There are kits that allow for direct wire with dual voltage by using a hobb switch.

If your car is a track **** then a bigger fpr might be the right way to go, if its a DD i would go with the dual voltage setup.