You may want to put some piece of rubber between ebc and frame. Sometimes it makes clicking sound identical to lifters. It scared me good until I figured it out lol.

 

Wow this is the first time I've heard the idea of taking the dash out to give to the dealer to change the air bag, is there a DIY to get the dash out? Great work in your garage, inspires me to give it all a go

 

nice work! I didn't see you mention it so ill just add that you should re-shim your rear diff. Mitsu sent it to us in lame mode to reduce warranty claims. Its basically free minus fluids, unless you upgrade to a 12 disk setup.

 

Thanks for the suggestion, I'll add some later tonight!

 

Great build can't wait to see the numbers it puts down

 

I couldn't find a DIY on removing the dash specifically for the airbag recall, so I opted to just use the service manual (http://evoscan.com/manuals/Evo9/GR00003400-52A.pdf).

Tools Needed:

• Phillips Screwdriver
• 10mm socket
• 12mm socket
• 14mm socket (I don't remember if the bolts holding down the dash are 12 or 14)

Optional Tools:

• Masking Tape
• Permanent Marker
• Two clean towels

Contact your dealer and make sure they have the airbag. They may have to order one.

Tell them you are going to bring in the entire dash because you need the airbag replaced because of the recall. I opted to go to the dealer and explained that I would bring the dash down for them to perform the airbag recall. It took a bit of explaining (they did not want me to perform the airbag install on my own, so I opted for the next best solution -- having them turn the dash upside down, pop off the old airbag and pop on the new one).

Follow pages 52A-4 and 52A-5 to perform the removal of your dash (link above).

You don't have to follow the lower half of page 52A-6, it can be ignored. The dealer however will perform the upper half of that page.

Everything in red (see pic below) will be removed in separate pieces in the order of the steps provided on page 52A-4.

As I unclipped the different panels' electrical connections, I put a piece of masking tape on the wires and marked the tape with the name of the component that it connected.

Page 52A-5 is just used to show where the clips are and what types.

Once you have finished the steps on page 52A-4 (step 23 is for the dealer), place the optional towels over the steering wheel and the ashtray area. The towels are used to protect from scratches as you remove the dash. With the towels in place, pull up and out on the dash and center counsel (everything in blue will be removed as one piece and was taken to the dealer). It helps to have two people to remove the dash although I did perform this on my own without scratching anything.





Let me know if you have questions.

 

Thanks for the suggestion, I'll kill two birds as I need to perform my 90,000 mile service which includes changing the diff fluid.

 

Haha bc our dealers thinks it's just another car and scratches the hell out of the dash.

 

Which do you suggest, just shimming or upgrading to a 12+ disk setup?

I found this kit, know if it is any good? http://www.weirperformance.com/maxgriplsdkits.html

 

I can't really comment on the 12 disk. I just re-shimmed the oem disks/plates, but that alone was a huge improvement. My plan was to buy a kit if any of the oem disks needed replacing, but none did so I stuck with them. There are threads around here with people talking about their impressions of the 12-disk.

 

Dang dude, wish I had the resources and confidence to do this kind of work myself. Good luck, wish i heard your airbag solution earlier lol

 

What did you do to clean up the head so well?

 

Mate, you're my hero, thanks a million, I'll try it on the dealer if they can let me pull the dash. I'll tell them I have an alarm and custom stereo and don't want any wiring damaged etc

 

I took out the head's components (cams, springs, lifters, etc...) and then took it to a local machine shop and had them hot tank it before resurfacing.

 

np