I'm going to upgrade my DD IX (89,700 mi) and would like feedback on my next mods in relation to achieving my goal. I'll update this thread as the build progresses.

I'm competent mechanically and will perform all work.
Goal:

• Reasonably Safe 400WHP, 400WTQ
• Spend ~$3K

Current Mods:

• 3'' Megan Racing Down Pipe
• 3'' Megan Racing Test Pipe
• 3'' Magnaflow Catback
• ACT Clutch ME2-HDSS Pressure Plate W/Sprung Hub Street Disc (Rated 510TQ)
• RRE No Name Lightweight Flywheel
• Perrin MBC
• ETS LICP
• Bilstien HD Shocks and Struts
• Robispec Springs
• Adjustable Rear Sway Bar (Brand: N/A, 26mm)
• Front H Brace (Brand: N/A)
• Other Aesthetic Mods...

This Round of Mods

• Engine:
• GSC S2 Cams
• GSC Beehive Springs
• GSC Titainium Retainers
• GSC Valve Stem Seals
• ARP L19 Head Studs
• Ralliart Catch Can

• Exhaust:
• Ported OEM Exhaust Manifold
• 3'' MAP O2 Eliminator Downpipe (for FP SS Hotside)
• AEM WBO2 UEGO

• Intake:
• 3.5'' ETS IC
• ETS Upper Pipe
• 4'' AMSOil Cone Filter
• 4'' DIY Silicone Intake
• OMNI4Bar MAP Sensor
• Synapse Syncronic DV VTA

• Fuel:
• Walbro 255lph
• FIC 1120cc Injectors

• Turbo:
• FP Green w/ 84mm Surge Port
• FP SS Hotside
• TiAL MV-S 38mm External Waste Gate
• GrimmSpeed EBCS

• Chassis:
• Torque Solutions Front Engine Mount
• RS Trunk Bar

• Battery
• ETS Small Battery Kit

• Exterior
• BBS Winter Wheels
• Rexspeed Vortex Generator

• Stereo
• Pioneer NEX4100
• Amazon HVAC relocation kit

 

you will need:

-3.5 IC
-O2 housing
-BOV (synapse/cobb imo)
-head studs
-exhaust manifold ported
-front roll stopper mount (blox)
with you rounds of mods. upper ic pipe ehhh its fine.

 

Just here to watch

 

Thanks for the feedback. I'm going to add the following to this round of mods.

- O2 Housing Ported and Heat Treated
- Exhaust Manifold Ported and Heat Treated
- 3.5" ETS IC
- BOV (I'm thinking Synapse Syncronic)
- L19 ARP Head Studs
- BLOX Front Engine Mount

 

I have started the teardown in anticipation of the new mods arriving.



The front bumper, undertray, and intercooler removed.




The stock airbox removed.

 

Drop the mbc and get an ebc.

Have the boost controlled by the ecu.

With a mbc your boost level will change with the temp changes.

 

I could not agree more. That's why I'm going with the Grimspeed EBCS.

 

I have now taken out the radiator, the exhaust manifold, turbo and DP.

After ~90,000 miles my hotside has cracked internally on the divider wall in two or more places.

I opted to cancel my FP 71HTA CHRA order (they had not shipped it yet) and decided to upgraded to the FP Green W/ FP's SS Housing. Which I think makes more sense considering it will get me a bit further with the next round of mods.

I'm now going to run a MAP O2 Eliminator downpipe for FP SS with recirculated dump from an External Tial MVS 38mm wastegate.

I'll post up some progress pics later tonight and will update my build list. (~3k, GTFO)

 

Update: She is all put back together and is waiting to be tuned!

I worked on this project during nights for two months and was without a ton of experience (brakes, cutting rotors, all fluids, wheel and tires etc...).

I consider myself to be mechanically inclined and while there were a few of days of intense frustration, the learning experience and knowledge gained made it defiantly worth doing it all myself!

I also opted to takeout my entire dash and take it down to the dealer for the airbag recall and then I additionally installed a double-din, radar, rs trunk bar, vortex generator, bbs winter wheels and a sub in the trunk.





Exhaust leak in cracked hotside gasket.




Bent J-pipe


















































New Winter BBSs




New wideband




Radar in more of a discrete location





I'll update again with whp and wtq numbers after she is tuned.

 

Very healthy build and clean work! Good job Satoshi! I think that you will hit your power goals. If not, E85 will easily get you there.

I was thinking about taking out my dash for the airbag recall as well. Did you just take the whole thing to Mitsubishi dealer? I thought that the airbag was bolted to the dash rail.

-pal215

 

Thanks!

The airbag itself is not really attached to the dash rail, it is held in place by a clip mechanism to the underside of the dash. The dash however is bolted to the dash rail.

Yes, I took the entire dash to the dealer (besides the trim, it comes out all in one piece) and they just flipped the dash upside-down, unclipped the old airbag and clipped in the new one. I would highly recommend anyone with any after-market wiring (radio, gauges, alarm, radar, etc..) to perform this themselves as there are many ways that the dealer could make mistakes or blemishes when removing/reinstalling the dash.

Without ever having taken it out and doing it on my own, it took about an hour to get it out and 30 minutes to put it back in.

 

A couple of other pics I forgot to add...


After I cleaned the surface of block.




The head while waiting to be reinstalled.

 

nice dude! getr done...

 

Looks good. Hurry up and get a tune on her so I can see how that SS green performs. I'm just finishing a few upgrades that include a SS housing green myself so I'm looking forward to your results.

 

nice job !!! definitely in for green results..