I have a few quick questions I was hoping you guys could help me with regarding some maintenance on my Evo IX.



I am currently bringing an Evo out of long term storage and have been completing numerous maintenance projects before taking it back onto the road.


- I’m looking to have all the belts replaced on it by my local performance shop here in AZ. Please correct me if I am wrong, but there are 3 belts on the 4G63 engine that need to be changed, correct? Timing Belt, Balance Belt and Serpentine Belt?



- For my own knowledge, would anyone have a diagram or photo showing these belts?



- In regard to the fluids, could you please confirm that these are indeed the correct OEM fluids for the following applications:


Transfer case - Mitsubishi Limited Slip Differential Oil
Transmission 5 spd. - DiaQueen Multigear oil 75w-80
Rear differential - Mitsubishi Limited Slip Differential Oil
Power steering - Genuine Mitsubishi Power Steering Fluid
ACD - Diamond ATF SP III


I appreciate everyone’s help, thanks again.


Jason

 

Transfer case - Mitsubishi Limited Slip Differential Oil--Is it called this now? I always thought it was called Diaqueen. Either way I believe its a 90w lsd oil.


Transmission 5 spd. -- A good alternative is the OEM Evo MR fluid. Look it up on Jacks trans, he recommends it for an oem trans

Rear differential - Same as tcase

Power steering - Genuine Mitsubishi Power Steering Fluid--Correct

ACD - Diamond ATF SP III--Correct

As for the belts, you have it right. Timing, balance shaft and serpentine belt. If its sat, might wanna look into a new tensioner pulley, idler pulley and id recommend a new hydraulic tensioner.

 

Add water pump

 

Thanks for the replies, I appreciate the verification on the fluids.


In regard to starting the engine up for the first time after it has been in storage, would it be recommended and advised to squirt a little Marvel Mystery Oil into the spark plug holes and letting the engine sit overnight before the first start up?


Cheers!

 

And put some mileage on the thing. Your making us all look bad. Lol.

 

I'd probably look into what oil to put down the holes but I'd probably hand crank it first to make sure it turns over smooth

 

It seems like we all agree that a small amount of oil be placed down each spark plug hole and into the cylinder before starting.

Does anyone have a recommendation on which oil to use?

Is it best to just use the Mobil 1 10w-30 that I run in the engine or a speciality oil such as Marvel Mystery oil?

Thanks!

 

It doesn't matter, the idea is to get some oil to the rings which are now probably dry.

 

all above is good advice. also, FYI:

-you can leave the balance shaft belt off, if you are worried about it ever failing.
-the water pump you find will probably be for an VIII, unless you buy OEM. the difference is the IX water pump has an attachment point for an alternator bracket. it's not needed, so just get the VIII pump.
-use a IX timing belt only, not the VIII.

other than that, I agree to swap the water pump and hydro tensioner since you are already in there. and any oil into the cylinder works. I also like the idea of turning it by hand first. that couldn't hurt.

i'm assuming the shop will check the radiator, thermostat, etc.

 

I will be completing almost all of the work myself minus the belts and water pump.

I'm currently in the process of changing out all fluids, fuel, plugs, battery, coolant hoses and getting the engine prepped for the first start.

Could someone please elaborate a bit more about the hydro tensioner? Which belt does it provide tension for?

Also, does each belt have it's own tensioner? I know the serpentine belt has it's own. Does the timing belt have one of some kind? The balance shaft belt?

Cheers!

 

i'd suggest downloading the service manual. i found mine online. it sounds like you are unfamiliar with these cars, which cause problems down the line, i.e. there is a process for setting the hydraulic tensioner properly.

the timing belt has a tensioner that you set yourself. there is a hydraulic tensioner that works in unison to keeps tension on the belt if any slacking occurs.
the balance shaft belt has it's own tensioner, if you decide to leave that belt on.
you will see all this when you start pulling things apart.

 

Stay with the Diaqueen fluid for the transfer-case and rear diff. I think you can get a gallon jug still. Should be good for 3-4 fluid changes.

Go with Redline ****-tail mix for the trans. Or AMSOIL.

 

There is a speciality tool needed for the timing belt tensioner. Also, I suggest the purchase of the tool that is inserted between the cam sprockets holding them in place while the belt is off. Otherwise, valve spring pressure causes the cams to move away from their timing marks.

The important thing is to get the belt installed correctly. One tooth off, especially at the crank sprocket, where it likes to jump, will make you regret starting this job.

 

oh, yeah. forgot about that ^^ good call:

the cam gear tool makes things MUCH easier and the Jay Racing tensioner pulley tool is invaluable. i also have an AMS hydraulic tensioner tool that i use on occasion, but you won't need that for a fresh build.

 

Wow, I appreciate the info from everyone, thanks!

Since the car has been sitting for quite some time, this is what I'll be looking to have replaced. Please let me know if I left any parts out. Pretty much replacing all the belts/belt pulleys/tensioners on the engine.

Timing belt
Timing belt manual tensioner
Timing belt hydraulic tensioner
Timing belt idler pulley
Balance shaft belt
Balance shaft belt tensioner
Water pump
Serpentine belt
Serpentine belt idler pulley
Serpentine belt tensioner

Alright, did I miss any pulleys, tensioners or belts?

Thanks to everyone for their insight.