Ok, people say to run this even on stock block, i have the fp red and fp tells me to run 20w50 brad penn. i think its too thick and will slow compression down and clearence in stock blocks are smaller and tighter. can some one clear this up on 2016 ? i see threds on this from 2005 lol. "ive been runing amsoil dominator.
evo 9 mr 450whp. lady at fp tells me she runs it on her stock gsx eclipse.

 

I would listen to fp. If the turbo fails for whatever reason and they do an oil analysis and determine you are running something not recommended (they have a list) they will not warranty your turbo. Consensus I've heard is that the thicker weight keeps your bearings happy especially if you run the car hard. FYI I just switched to 20w50 myself having run 10w40 mobile with 113k on the clock.

 

and your engine is stock . runing 20w50 full synthetic ?

 

https://www.forcedperformance.net/me...otor%20Oil.pdf I run the same oil in my car. Ran it when my motor was stock using a FP Black and still using it on my 6466. Great oil.

 

Just sharing my own experience with my own car. Oil threads can get out of hand quickly.

I had some smoke issues at idle on VR1 20-50 once or twice on my stock block with fp bb red. I think that oil is too thick for a stock engine under most conditions . Could be worse in colder climates. If you are running a massive amount of power then it may be better to have a thicker oil and you may have to deal with some side effects. The factory pistons/rings may also be a little unhappy until the car gets up to operating temp. The two times I had the problem were on colder days also (50-60*). I presume this is the thick oil not draining out quick enough and backing up in the the chra at cooler temps. My car would also go to 120lbs of oil pressure and bypass when cold .

I would and have run VR1 20-50 for open road course days since its thicker and people swear by the thicker oil helping with oil starvation issues. I never had any issues on my stock engine@450whp wide open for hours at the track on 20-50.

Maybe the VR1 doesn't have the magic pixie dust that brad penn has for not backing up when cold. I did not try it and only ran the 20-50 on road course days.

For street use I run brad penn 10-40. I ran my stock engine from 500-600whp on it and currently 600whp on my 2.2. Modern oil is pretty good nowadays vs 20 yrs ago.

 

yeah I've heard good things on that oil! What is the price per quart?

 

best place to get a case is through Amazon! I think it comes out to $83 shipped for 12 quarts. (I get taxed in CA for this product) otherwise its $76

 

I would listen to FP... I run Brad Penn in my motor and it's great stuff. Never had an issue with it, and there are tons of other people running it that haven't had oil starvation issues so you should be fine. I got mine off Amazon for roughly $7 a quart so it's not too bad on price either.

 

Damn so i guess its fine to run this brad penn. Ive heard people state thats its the best even though its not synthetic oil. plus its really thick oil, i just want to make sure my evo runs at its best with the best oil out there for fp applications on stock engine. got 272 cosworth,fp red think its ball bearing.itm lifters. 450whp

Ive been using dominator 10w30 amsoil. was going to switch to 10w40 amsoil. but ive been really thinking about this brand pen 20w50 and hope my engine wont starve, if that makes sense?

i do live in florida so its really hot down here.

was thinking of these oil options
t6 5w40 rotella used it before on my 2005 sti was the best.
10w30 dominator
10w30 z rod
10w40 amsoil
10w30 mobil 1

i do have an engine tick sounds like a lifter tick. so dont want to make things worse. have been running the car with this tick for a while. was told all evo 9's have this tick. anyways if you guys could put some input id appreciate it

 

For what its worth.

FP made the oil recommendation x amount of years back when they introduced a ****ty thrust bearing material. Since then, they have revised the bearings allowing most oils to be ran today. Some people take that document like its life/death. That is not the case. (How do I know? I almost ordered a red from them but found the same turbo elsewhere for the fraction of the price. I talked with the lady up front, that was her story.)

To run 20-50 in a stock block is plane dumb in my opinion. Have I done it, yes. Was it worth it, who knows. All I can say is that the bearings in stock engines are tighter. We all know this. Looser engines are set to be looser so the crank can bend due to the high loads of the engine. 20-50 is there for that extra cushion. Stock block, stock clearance, the oil is going to have one hell of a time flowing. Meaning higher oil pressure, so on and so forth.

 

Well said, lancerrally45, these are my exact thoughts on this. I just wanted to clarify that 20w50 is way to thick for stock clearences. im just going to stick with i guess the 10w30 dominator or z rod 10w30. my evo revs all the way to 7600 so i though i could go with something a little bit more thicker in viscosity since it revs that high and im on very hot climate.

 

Im sure you will be fine with either. I actually run VR1 10w30 synthetic. No problems thus far.

 

i might try that vr1 10w30 as its easy to get than amsoil. i have tried vr1 20w50 and my seemed way slower and heavy

 

From what I understand,

If your engine is built and you're using an aftermarket turbo on 91 only, you want to use Brad Penn 20W50. If you are ever going to run E85 under the same circumstances, you want Valvoline VR1 20W50. Brad Penn has "gunked up" in the past with people letting unburnt ethanol stay in their oil for too long.

-pal215

 

Interesting, I have not heard of that happening; as I have ran Brad Penn with e85.

Maybe that is the cause of the black injector gunk? I didnt run Brad Penn long enough to cause the injector gunk issue. Maybe 2 oil changes, if that.