I paid quite a bit more than $20, But if that's what they cost today I would do it no question. Then again, a "why not? " $20 here and $20 there can add a few hundreds of dollars to a budget real quick.

 

I reused my flywheel bolts before but I set the torque on the torque wrench to 110ft-lbs. Cheap torque wrenches sometimes will lose it's torque after the first few if it's over 60ft-lbs. I've used the same torque wrench to torque down my calipers and wheels and those came loose when I set those to the correct torque instead of compensating. So if you have a cheap torque wrench, set it to something a little higher.

 

I'd go a step further and recommend not using a cheap torque wench on a $30k car.
I'd tighten by "feel" or impact anything over 60ftlbs before using a torque wench that's off by that much. You're pretty much doing that anyway, at this point.

 

Here are a few recommendations
Buy new bolts and use loctite
Put an ATI dampner on the car to help deal with some of the engines vibrations.
Use stock motormounts except for the front one
Hope that the pistons rods weighed close enough to not cause any issues.

 

Check if your flywheel is not warped. I had the same issue and it was warped. Pulled trans 3 times. Even used arp bolts. Would come lose withing 50 miles on a 2.4. new flywheel. no issues so far after 4100 miles at 771 awhp.

 

Good call. I could see that being a cause. How in heck would one warp a flywheel?

 

Probably not bedded correctly. Its the same concept as warped rotors.

 

Wee, hot spots

 

Since I do work for an oem, in a torque converter design and release group, I can say for a fact, they should be replaced. We deal with all connecting bolts on the drive plates and crank hubs. OEM best practice.

 

^^^Sounds like an interesting job - probably better than the one I once had at a wastewater treatment plant.

 

Haha, some days Im sure they are equal with the amount of **** you get to deal with.

 

Lol