02 sensor readiness monitor....
The rear O2 sensor literally serves no other purpose that to tell if your CAT is functioning properly so I'd try and find the cheapest one possible. DENSO is an OEM and IIRC makes the sensor for Mitsu as well. You could even get a universal and splice it in if youre trying to go the uber cheap route...
Yeah if you put on a known working cat and it still wont flip after driving around for 50 miles or so then the sensor might me gone. As far as where to buy one, lol idk the dealership or maybe you can get away with one from Rockauto. The rear o2 really isnt important its not going to affect how your car drives. Just as long as it doesnt throw a p0420 and yours flips to ready then youre good to go!
Last edited by Wapoosh; Jul 27, 2016 at 07:58 PM.
Im confused...what are you trying to accomplish? Do you need to pass inspection? Id imagine that if you have the spacer on the rear 02 then you dont have it deleted in the ECU. Do you have a cat on your car or is it a test pipe?
My bad for confusing you lol. Yes I need to pass inspection. That's what I assume because I had 2 spacers on. But my monitor hasn't set after 100 miles, with the drive cycles. Currently I put the cat back on, and removed the spacers.
Ahh OK now im picking up what youre putting down haha!
So for starters if you have the cat back on then forget about the spacers, as you have done. Generally it takes about 50 miles for the system to go through its checks and verify readiness however realistically it can be more or less as it need to go through different conditions drive cycles various RPM's loads etc. So it can take a little while to reset.
However, if it's still not flipping it's one of 3 things. 1 it was deleted when you had your car tuned so you wouldnt get a CEL. In this case it wont go to ready status. 2 your rear o2 is bad. 3 your cat is bad. If I had to guess I'd put my money on #1.
If thats the case you need to find someone local with a laptop a tactrix cable ecuflash and a little bit of knowledge to help you out. I'd offer but you're 3000 miles away so not exactly feasible.
So for starters if you have the cat back on then forget about the spacers, as you have done. Generally it takes about 50 miles for the system to go through its checks and verify readiness however realistically it can be more or less as it need to go through different conditions drive cycles various RPM's loads etc. So it can take a little while to reset.
However, if it's still not flipping it's one of 3 things. 1 it was deleted when you had your car tuned so you wouldnt get a CEL. In this case it wont go to ready status. 2 your rear o2 is bad. 3 your cat is bad. If I had to guess I'd put my money on #1.
If thats the case you need to find someone local with a laptop a tactrix cable ecuflash and a little bit of knowledge to help you out. I'd offer but you're 3000 miles away so not exactly feasible.
Ahh OK now im picking up what youre putting down haha!
So for starters if you have the cat back on then forget about the spacers, as you have done. Generally it takes about 50 miles for the system to go through its checks and verify readiness however realistically it can be more or less as it need to go through different conditions drive cycles various RPM's loads etc. So it can take a little while to reset.
However, if it's still not flipping it's one of 3 things. 1 it was deleted when you had your car tuned so you wouldnt get a CEL. In this case it wont go to ready status. 2 your rear o2 is bad. 3 your cat is bad. If I had to guess I'd put my money on #1.
If thats the case you need to find someone local with a laptop a tactrix cable ecuflash and a little bit of knowledge to help you out. I'd offer but you're 3000 miles away so not exactly feasible.
So for starters if you have the cat back on then forget about the spacers, as you have done. Generally it takes about 50 miles for the system to go through its checks and verify readiness however realistically it can be more or less as it need to go through different conditions drive cycles various RPM's loads etc. So it can take a little while to reset.
However, if it's still not flipping it's one of 3 things. 1 it was deleted when you had your car tuned so you wouldnt get a CEL. In this case it wont go to ready status. 2 your rear o2 is bad. 3 your cat is bad. If I had to guess I'd put my money on #1.
If thats the case you need to find someone local with a laptop a tactrix cable ecuflash and a little bit of knowledge to help you out. I'd offer but you're 3000 miles away so not exactly feasible.
I'm also leaning to #1 lol and thank you for your willingness to help! I came to a local tuner, mostly does subarus. But also tunes nissan's and evo's, says he is going to check to see if the map/rom(whatever it's called) is locked. So if it's not he said no charge for me yay! But if it is than a new tune would be option 2. Till Monday I'll know
Do you happen to know his contact info? Username, or email?
I'm a smog tech and mastertech. The rear o2 should show a slow and steady voltage it should not mimic the front o2. If the computer sees the rear o2 switching like the front then that usually means the cat is deteriorating and the cat monitor test will fail and make the cel come on. It usually takes several drive cycles and some miles of driving at a steady speed. One drive cycle is starting the car it warms up you drive it and shut it off. The computer has to see the coolant temp drop below about 165 degrees F. I've had to drive some cars 2 or 3 cycles and 100 miles or more.
I find that the rear o2 goes to ready status very quickly. However its EGR and EVAP that tends to take some time. I tried to get my sticker yesterday but both EVAP and EGR wouldnt flip. I let the car sit overnight and now I got my EGR to flip but I also got a misfire code so after clearing that im back to both EVAP and EGR needing to go back to ready status.
There is a defined drive cycle process in the manual however its next to impossible to meet those conditions on the road; you'd need to leverage a dyno. I wish there was a way via Evoscan or some other tool to force the tests to run. I don't mean force them to pass but force them to go through their system of checks.
There is a defined drive cycle process in the manual however its next to impossible to meet those conditions on the road; you'd need to leverage a dyno. I wish there was a way via Evoscan or some other tool to force the tests to run. I don't mean force them to pass but force them to go through their system of checks.
I'm a smog tech and mastertech. The rear o2 should show a slow and steady voltage it should not mimic the front o2. If the computer sees the rear o2 switching like the front then that usually means the cat is deteriorating and the cat monitor test will fail and make the cel come on. It usually takes several drive cycles and some miles of driving at a steady speed. One drive cycle is starting the car it warms up you drive it and shut it off. The computer has to see the coolant temp drop below about 165 degrees F. I've had to drive some cars 2 or 3 cycles and 100 miles or more.
I find that the rear o2 goes to ready status very quickly. However its EGR and EVAP that tends to take some time. I tried to get my sticker yesterday but both EVAP and EGR wouldnt flip. I let the car sit overnight and now I got my EGR to flip but I also got a misfire code so after clearing that im back to both EVAP and EGR needing to go back to ready status.
There is a defined drive cycle process in the manual however its next to impossible to meet those conditions on the road; you'd need to leverage a dyno. I wish there was a way via Evoscan or some other tool to force the tests to run. I don't mean force them to pass but force them to go through their system of checks.
There is a defined drive cycle process in the manual however its next to impossible to meet those conditions on the road; you'd need to leverage a dyno. I wish there was a way via Evoscan or some other tool to force the tests to run. I don't mean force them to pass but force them to go through their system of checks.
I find that the rear o2 goes to ready status very quickly. However its EGR and EVAP that tends to take some time. I tried to get my sticker yesterday but both EVAP and EGR wouldnt flip. I let the car sit overnight and now I got my EGR to flip but I also got a misfire code so after clearing that im back to both EVAP and EGR needing to go back to ready status.
There is a defined drive cycle process in the manual however its next to impossible to meet those conditions on the road; you'd need to leverage a dyno. I wish there was a way via Evoscan or some other tool to force the tests to run. I don't mean force them to pass but force them to go through their system of checks.
There is a defined drive cycle process in the manual however its next to impossible to meet those conditions on the road; you'd need to leverage a dyno. I wish there was a way via Evoscan or some other tool to force the tests to run. I don't mean force them to pass but force them to go through their system of checks.
Anyone around North Bay Cali who can flip ready through evoscan or tephra???
To pass the smog check you do not need evap to set. You need everything else to set. I think you guys got some issues in your tune. I remember when i first got a tune my o2 would not set as well. I called and got the same answers as you guys. Need to play with the force pass patch. Its on this forum but its confusing and requires alot of trial and error to get it to set right. Yes it sucks but it is possible to accomplish. Goodluck guys and if you need help you can message me and i can see what i can do to help out. Im no expert, just an evo owner passing on what i learned about our cars.


