Evo 8 Overheating While Driving, Temp Goes Up Then Down
#1
Newbie
Thread Starter
Evo 8 Overheating While Driving, Temp Goes Up Then Down
Hey all.
New Evo 8 owner here.
A little background on my car.
Water pump was done by the previous owner at 110k, the car now has 150k. It was a single owner and owned by the wife of a CHP officer.
So my issue is as follows. A week back I found my car getting hot. Very hot.
The temp increases randomly, it will happen even at low RPM with load load (constant freeway cruising throttle) on the freeway, when I pull up to a light, etc.
Stuff I've replaced:
I replaced the serpentine/accessory belt as I thought that the belt could be slipping and stopping water pump flow.
Did not fix the issue.
I then replaced the thermostat with an OE thermostat. Old one was absolutely completely shot.
I'm still having the issue.
I'm now looking at replacing the rad at this point..
Can anyone give me any insight? Does this simply sound like air in the system?
also, every time i check my coolant when the car is cool, the rad is never filled up to the brim so I add distilled water. The overflow tank is more full than it previously was.
Whenever I open the rad cap, it makes a "tssssss"
Thanks in advance.
Compression test had all 4 cylinders within 5 PSI of each other.
New Evo 8 owner here.
A little background on my car.
Water pump was done by the previous owner at 110k, the car now has 150k. It was a single owner and owned by the wife of a CHP officer.
So my issue is as follows. A week back I found my car getting hot. Very hot.
The temp increases randomly, it will happen even at low RPM with load load (constant freeway cruising throttle) on the freeway, when I pull up to a light, etc.
Stuff I've replaced:
I replaced the serpentine/accessory belt as I thought that the belt could be slipping and stopping water pump flow.
Did not fix the issue.
I then replaced the thermostat with an OE thermostat. Old one was absolutely completely shot.
I'm still having the issue.
I'm now looking at replacing the rad at this point..
Can anyone give me any insight? Does this simply sound like air in the system?
also, every time i check my coolant when the car is cool, the rad is never filled up to the brim so I add distilled water. The overflow tank is more full than it previously was.
Whenever I open the rad cap, it makes a "tssssss"
Thanks in advance.
Compression test had all 4 cylinders within 5 PSI of each other.
Last edited by astral; Sep 19, 2016 at 02:28 PM.
#2
Evolving Member
Are your rad fans not coming on sometimes? It's something worth checking for. Also a rad upgrade, even if it doesn't solve the problem, is always a good move.
#3
Newbie
Thread Starter
You know, I thought this initially, but that wouldn't explain overheating on the freeway where the fans basically do nothing.
#4
Evolving Member
Maybe head gasket if I had to put my finger on it I know on subarus that's the first sign of a head gasket crapping out on them which seems to happen a lot ask me how I know lol
#5
Newbie
Thread Starter
What sign in particular are you referring to?
I've got no symptoms of head gasket failure, such as tail pipe coolant burn off, frothiness in the oil/coolant reservoirs and caps. As stated in the OP, compression test results are within 5 psi of each other.
#6
Evolved Member
If the ground wire between the intake manifold and firewall becomes open (time and corrosion will do it) the dash temperature gauge goes nuts. So, that's the first thing I would check. Also, the fix costs zero dollars. Another thing you can do, if you have the equipment, is check the coolant temperature by way of a scanner. The ECU uses a different temperature sensor. If they don't both read hot it is probably a gauge problem.
Beyond that I agree with the above, it sounds like a head gasket failure.
Beyond that I agree with the above, it sounds like a head gasket failure.
#7
Newbie
Thread Starter
If the ground wire between the intake manifold and firewall becomes open (time and corrosion will do it) the dash temperature gauge goes nuts. So, that's the first thing I would check. Also, the fix costs zero dollars. Another thing you can do, if you have the equipment, is check the coolant temperature by way of a scanner. The ECU uses a different temperature sensor. If they don't both read hot it is probably a gauge problem.
Beyond that I agree with the above, it sounds like a head gasket failure.
Beyond that I agree with the above, it sounds like a head gasket failure.
I bled the cooling system again today, and there was a **** ton of air in the system. The unfortunate thing was... the air never stopped. Even after an hour of bleeding, the air bubbles wouldn't stop pouring over into my funnel.
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#9
Newbie
Thread Starter
I called it a night, but I'll get back to burping it for another hour or two tomorrow, and see how it goes. I'll definitely report back.
Will get a second compression/leakdown test as well as a head gasket test later this week for further diagnosis.
Another bit of information to add is that I am running straight distilled water with redline water wetter.
Will get a second compression/leakdown test as well as a head gasket test later this week for further diagnosis.
Another bit of information to add is that I am running straight distilled water with redline water wetter.
#11
Newbie
Thread Starter
Thanks. The thing that confuses me is the fact that I burped/bled the system for about an hour, with lots of idle time, as well as hard revs and heater on and off and the air wouldn't stop coming out. I guess we'll see tomorrow.
#12
Evolved Member
It seems like I'm always doing something that includes having to drain the radiator. When time to fill I pour the radiator full, idle the engine, the coolant gradually climbs up the fill funnel until suddenly it is gone. The thermostat has opened allowing the air to come out. At that point I fill and cap. Done. There is no air remaining in the cooling system. Bubbling for an hour is not normal.
#13
Newbie
Thread Starter
It seems like I'm always doing something that includes having to drain the radiator. When time to fill I pour the radiator full, idle the engine, the coolant gradually climbs up the fill funnel until suddenly it is gone. The thermostat has opened allowing the air to come out. At that point I fill and cap. Done. There is no air remaining in the cooling system. Bubbling for an hour is not normal.
#14
Evolving Member
Is the side tank reservoir bubbling that's a good sign of head gasket failure just because the compression check was all within 5 psi doesn't mean that the head gasket isn't failing