Stark_Tech

For the folks who just love helping others...

I have finally reached my wits end on this one.

It's an 05 Evo 8, important mods as follows:

S2 cams
Garrett stock frame turbo
Perrin intake
Full exhaust
ID injectors/Walbro pump
ETS IC and piping
MBC

A couple things to note, I've taken the turbo and manifold off several times (and everything that comes off with it when doing this job) and never had a problem. I took it off this time to get the turbo and manifold ceramic coated.

The fuel injector resistor pack on the passenger side firewall, the wires were cut per instructions for installing the ID injectors. I did this, got it tuned, and I have daily driven the car for over a year.

This time when I put everything back together, I went to start the car, and it wouldn't. It'll turn over strong, but it won't catch and fire up and run. So I crawled underneath it, searched and searched and searched all day today with a flashlight, looked for any connectors I may have forgotten, checked all the intercooler piping, everything extremely solid. I triple checked these things. Next I checked all the fuses. After that, I checked that the fuel pump was priming. For extra reassurance, I disconnected the line at the fuel rail, stuck it in a cup, and had a friend turn the key, the cup filled with gas. It's getting fuel up to the rail no doubt about that. I took out a spark plug and had my friend hit the key again and I watched it spark, a little faint in my opinion, but a clear spark none the less. I had another knowledgeable friend come over who used to own an Evo...he searched everything for anything obvious I may have missed, he searched for the less obvious, nothing.

This time around, all I touched was the turbo, radiator, battery, intake and downpipe, as well as I completely removed that injector resistor box off the firewall (no wires were running to it anyways just a dead box sitting there). It was running fine before all of this. Cranked up consistently, no issues ever.

Also to note, I scanned the computer and it had 3 trouble codes:

P0105
Manifold Absolute Pressure/Barometric pressure circuit

P0110
Intake air temp sensor 1 circuit

P0201
Injector circuit/Open - Cylinder 1

I'm currently researching all that I can to see what's going on with these codes. I thought I would make a post up here and just see if I have any luck.

Thanks for reading

gsrboi80

iTrader: (38)

First 2 are MAF related errors. Did you plug the MAF back in? (Happens to the best of em). Does the car run a MAF? SD?

The last is due to the resistor pack, wiring, or injector. Do you still have the connector plugged into something? I'm guessing they are the High Z injectors so you need to bypass the resistor pack IIRC in my reading. Never ran them myself. I've seen other cars with the 4 white wires coming out the top of the resistors tied together in those applications or there is a company that sells a plug and play unit.

Stark_Tech

Yes sir...I've done that in the past (leaving the MAF undone and then I discover it lol)...but yeah the MAF is definitely plugged in.

I have spoken with the shop that tuned it, they are 2 1/2 hours away from me though. But they too are a bit puzzled at the moment, of course they haven't looked at it, just going off of what I'm telling them.

So yeah the car is not speed density, still has the MAF.

I took the actual resistor pack completely out. Only thing that's left is the wires and connector sitting on my firewall severed. But again, nothing has changed since I drove it last, other than what I explained earlier.

I'm baffled as to what is going on...

Stark_Tech

Anybody have any advice or suggestions as to something I could check that I might not have?

Stark_Tech

Bump

4G63_EVO

iTrader: (4)

When you say they are severed are they just sitting loose? Cause if you dont get the resistor pack delete and do it yourself your supposed to cut the wires and then solder them together a certain way, if you didnt Im thinking maybe you burned out the HIGH Zs and it was dumb luck that they failed when they did.

Stark_Tech

Back when I did my turbo/cam/injector upgrade, I was instructed to cut those 4 or 5 wires running to the resistor pack and just leave it. So at that point, I had the resistor box bolted to the firewall doing nothing but sitting alone, and then there are the wires that were running to it, and they are part of a plug that plugs into somewhere else.


This time around when I did this recent work, while the car was down I took out the screws and removed that dead box off of the firewall. But that's all I did...


I'll include a picture I found on Google (I'm at work right now not around my car).


So the resistor pack is not in the car at all now, and the other half is just plugged in.

4G63_EVO

iTrader: (4)

If you dont attatch them together im not sure it would work properly maybe someone else can chime in, but I wouldnt check to make sure your injectors are firing properly, especially with that last check engine code.
See here http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/hig...wiring.464250/

Biggiesacks

yah you either need to strip and crimp/solder those wires together, or buy a spoolinup bypass harness. The fact it worked all that time before was probably because the wires where shorting out or something on the metal bracket or something.

http://www.spoolinup.com/Injector-Re...pass_p_73.html

Here's a link to one i made myself for a project I did:

http://imgur.com/a/H6pMk The red wire is the 12v switched and the blue wires go to the various injectors.

Stark_Tech

That's awesome man. When I get home I'll take that plug out and solder the wires all together and see if it'll fire up then. If that's what it was all along, I'll probably order that delete part just to make it cleaner. Thanks for the info, I'll update what I find out.

4G63_EVO

iTrader: (4)

I dont think thats gonna fix your issue, to my knowledge if you dont do it right its just bad for high z injectors. So it should run without it, and maybe its possible you blew the injectors out. thats why I suggested checking if they are firing

Stark_Tech

I haven't ran the car at all since this happened, just bumped the ignition a few times. This will ruin an injector? I hope not lol, ID's aren't cheap.


Can you suggest how to go about checking them? I'm familiar with the "stick a screwdriver on it and listen" approach but is there another way you do it?

Biggiesacks

its bad if you bypass the resistor on low z injectors because the ecu doesnt have true peak hold drivers and the current will fry the transistors in the ecu. If you have high z inectors they dont use much current to drive and thus you can bypass the resistor for better control.

4G63_EVO

iTrader: (4)

But he just cut the wires, which is the incorrect way to do it is what I was saying

OP are you saying you cut the resistor wires then the car wouldnt start? If so then I do believe it may be that!

Stark_Tech

I originally cut them free of the box, and twisted them together, and heat shrinked it to cap it off. I'm guessing they came apart or something when I took the box out the other day (maybe I bumped it or pulled on it). They were loose under the heat shrink so...took it inside and soldered all 5 wires together good'n tight. Tomorrow I will hook up the battery charger and see if the car will run now...