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2.4LR build

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Old Jun 24, 2017, 02:52 PM
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2.4LR build

Well I wasn't planing on building a motor, but **** happens. About 3 months ago I had just got my tune for my stock block build. The motor had 30k on it and a build head so I did a top mount forward facing 6266 set up, it made 517 and lasted about 3 weeks before spinning a rod bearing.

So I decided I was going to do a 2.4lr this made sense because my friend was selling his


Manley rods and pistons and crank!
Old Jun 24, 2017, 02:56 PM
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Old 2.0 out and 2.4 in!

Old Jun 24, 2017, 02:58 PM
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While the old motor was out in the transfer separated I took the time to blow out the comp Twin Disc it had about 10,000 miles on it and was in great shape even with countless launches, just a **** tone of dust
Old Jun 24, 2017, 03:00 PM
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Everything just about done !


Old Jun 24, 2017, 03:02 PM
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Timing was easy we used a evo 9 belt all the marks lined up quite well. Time to break in the motor!
Old Jun 24, 2017, 03:05 PM
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So after plenty of idle time the car should have been road worth but the motor kept smoking, so I decided to change all the valve seals. This helped but not completely after pulling of the exhaust manifold this is was I found
Old Jun 24, 2017, 03:09 PM
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Compression test was perfect, leak down test was less the 6% across all 4 and there's no oil in coolent nor is it lowering but I'm not going to rule out it being a head to block seating problem any ideas guys? And no the head was not leveled
Old Jun 28, 2017, 12:50 PM
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Bad oil rings maybe?
Old Jun 28, 2017, 03:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Ians06
Bad oil rings maybe?
That's what I'm first thought but the motor doesn't have oil squirrters and the leak down test was 6%
Old Jun 28, 2017, 04:23 PM
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Should have had the head gone through while the motor was apart. It is likely that there is an issue with the exhaust valve guides, or the valves them self on that cylinder. Need to pull the head and have it rebuilt.


Also, you should really invest in cams and valve springs.
Old Jun 28, 2017, 10:53 PM
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Originally Posted by ghost8
That's what I'm first thought but the motor doesn't have oil squirrters and the leak down test was 6%
Compression tests and leakdown tests don't find "oil burning" problems.


Oil rings are for oil control.
Compression rings are for compression.


Pull the sparkplugs.
Post up the photos of them.
Old Jun 29, 2017, 10:18 AM
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Originally Posted by letsgetthisdone
Should have had the head gone through while the motor was apart. It is likely that there is an issue with the exhaust valve guides, or the valves them self on that cylinder. Need to pull the head and have it rebuilt.


Also, you should really invest in cams and valve springs.
has 272 cams and bc valves springs and retainers
Old Jun 29, 2017, 10:23 AM
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Ring gap is in the wrong spot
So I pulled the head yeasterday
Old Jun 29, 2017, 10:42 AM
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What was your PTW clearance? Those kinds of scoring marks aren't from the ring end gaps.
Old Jun 29, 2017, 02:27 PM
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Originally Posted by ghost8
Ring gap is in the wrong spot [/i]
So I pulled the head yeasterday

Rings rotate on the pistons as they go up and down.

The gaps move.


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