RUNNING.AMOK

I have a 2005 evo with 455 pump hard wired, 1200cc injectors on e85 speed density. Picked the car up in this configuration.

Drive it to a store 20 minutes away, drive there is fine. Go to leave the store the car barley has the power to make it through the lot and dies. Have it towed home and here it sits. When I start the car I hear the pump prime, car starts right up. Then pump cuts car stumbles and dies simultaneously.

So far I have done the following.

Plugs, cop coil packs, injector service, new fuel pump, iat sensor, boost leak test, new piping couplings, coolant sensor, Cam angle sens, cleaned harness plugs, reset ecu, battery is good, tested injector resistor, checked all relays and fuses.

I am assuming a failed sensor of a sort. I am not sure what has the control over the pump. I am not getting any codes.

I understand that some of the things done might not be directly related. Things that I had come across in my hunt for the problem that I felt needed to be addressed.

I appreciate any and all help offered.

barneyb

Maybe a key identification problem.

RUNNING.AMOK

Would you happen to know how I go about trouble shooting that?

barneyb

I think you need a high end scan tool or MUT-III. I mentioned key identification because I made an ACE Hardware key for my car. This was to unlock the doors when the car was warming up but locked. Of course I had to try it in the ignition. My 8 would start and run several seconds before dying.

RightSaid fred

A 455 pump and hard wired.

That's a bit of a give away?


SO your fuel pressure at idle might be 50PSI.......or even more.
Maybe 60 PSI?

How would you know?

RUNNING.AMOK

In the beginning of the issue I was able to blip throttle to keep it alive, gauge on the rail read 60psi.
Since the issue has progressed. It starts pump whines for 4-5 seconds stops and car dies.

Factory switch wiring to relay, pump power supply from battery. Wiring and relay are good.

RightSaid fred

So you've just about doubled the pressure without even knowing it?

RUNNING.AMOK

I have not changed anything one this car from its configuration that I purchased it in. Is it possible for failure could be the issue?

Proper fuel pressure for the car is 30psi? Should I turn the regulator down? If doing so is a retune necessary?

The car ran fine prior to now. Could it have functioned in such poor set up for the 3k miles it has been in my possession?

Parts replaced were replaced with same part.

RightSaid fred

3 bar base pressure which is 3 bar across the injectors at all times, it never changes (it's not supposed to).
33 PSI on the gauge at idle when there's 18 to 20 inches vac in the manifold.
It's still 3 bar across the injector.

No, you can't turn it down, there's no adjustment.........it's outflowed.


To get the pressure down you either have to pump less fuel or return more fuel to the tank or both.

Once you've got one thing like that wrong and you keep on driving.........something else goes wrong.
Then something else goes wrong, then your car is even more broken.

Too much fuel to the FPR will break the FPR........given time.
Running too rich at low load washes the oil off the bores and it'll end up smoking.....given time.
Then you'll find it's running lean at high load because you can't tune it.
Then more problems.......given time.

deylag

iTrader: (23)

I have been chasing a similar issue on my Evo. I have disabled the immobilizer to make it easier to figure out why my Evo dies.

I have researched this issue and for some reason, it keeps happening to 2005 Evo eights. A couple things that have resolved this issue for others are replacing the map sensor. Omnipower had a batch of map sensors that would fail easily. They have since revised their map sensors to correct the failure now. It's worth a try.

I also saw a thread where someone had issues with a no start and all he did was replace the camshaft position sensor and it fixed the issue.

Also if your fuel pressure is too high you can start to vaporize the fuel and that would cause vapor lock. Not sure if that would be applicable to your situation just something I read about.

The obvious issue would be a dying alternator. I did notice that I heard noises coming from my serpentine belt whenever the Evo would run. They did go away once the Evo was warmed up. However, the top bolt that connects the alternator to the alternator bracket isn't there and the holes don't line up anymore. On the other hand, shouldn't the Evo be able to run on battery alone?

Maybe the dead alternator is causing resistance on the serpentine belt and killing the engine?

Anyways I am waiting for some parts to arrive so I can try to fix the issues I see.

RUNNING.AMOK

Thanks for the input, I will try and figure the problem.

RightSaid fred

Alternators usually work or they don't.
If you get a "dying" fault like a diode shorted, then you get lots of electrical noise in the system, the car probably won't run right but the easy test is that you get lots of noise on you sound system. Noise as in a whistle which increases in frequency with RPM.

If your alternator is dead, then you'll be asking why the car won't start and why the battery is dead.

RUNNING.AMOK

Battery and alternator are good

deylag

iTrader: (23)

Try checking your IACV (inlet air control valve). If it's extended all the way out it could keep the Evo from starting.

RUNNING.AMOK

do you feel that it will cut the power to the pump after priming?