steven121

iTrader: (27)

superbovine

iTrader: (23)

Electric ac has three major problems making it absolutely unrealistic.
1) they normally operate between 240V and 380V (ballpark, there are numerous types but all are high voltage). This means HEAVY battery pack (read: adding hundreds of pounds just for storage, not even getting into how to generate power to charge it).
2) along the same vein, they are alternating current, not direct current systems.
3) due to ac being basically all metal systems apart from the hoses, this poses a problem with electrocuting itself. The system would require a non conductive lubricant for the refrigerant to prevent electrocution as regular oil would essentially be like dropping a toaster in a bath tub. Because of that your --entire-- ac system would have to be replaced as even trace amounts of conductive oil would be disaster.

Essentially.... Find a different way to correct your problem. Running electric ac at absolute best would require thousands upon thousands of dollars of components (assuming they were already engineered and could be purchased), finding ways to got those components into the vehicle adding hundreds of pounds, if wanting more than a plug in solution for charging, then incorporating a large enough enough generator to intercept the engine (defeating the purpose of removing engine load) etc etc etc.

barneyb

Half size radiator?

Biggiesacks

You could just fab a bracket to attach a dc motor to the stock or replacement compressor and relocate it. Alternator will need a beefy upgrade as well as the wiring work obviously.

steven121

iTrader: (27)

steven121

iTrader: (27)

steven121

iTrader: (27)

superbovine

iTrader: (23)

Well your question was in relation to the advent of hybrid/electric cars running electric AC. That is how it is done.

Now if you were just concerned with making something cold happen in the car, gut a window unit AC from craigslist, run a fat DC-AC inverter and dual batteries

But to answer your question about using the advancement of electric cars electric AC systems, no, see reply 1. They are done that way because that is the only even remotely efficient way to do so. Low voltage won't support the needs of an electric AC system that is going to cool sufficiently, and high voltage AC can not be reliably provided without serious detriment to the efficiency of the gas engine. If it weren't that way, we would all be driving high output AC generators to charge batteries to run high output AC generators to charge batteries to run..... you get the idea.

superbovine

iTrader: (23)

With relation to your actual problem.... the easiest and likely cheapest solution would be to find a radiator shop (there is such a thing still, they are just rare since the dawn of disposable plastic tanks), and have them make a custom radiator for your that will hold the correct volume.
The problem with the reduced size radiator and over heating is that the radiator is sized volumetrically to hold a specific amount of coolant in relation to both engine capacity, fan efficiency AND thermostat timing. If the volume is wrong, you end up without sufficiently reduced coolant temperature re-entering the engine; that stock piles. So one thermostat cycle and the coolant comes back in 2* warmer than expected, no big deal. But stack them on top of each other and it worsens exponentially. Not only do you add that 2* per cycle, but the hotter the coolant leaving is, the sooner the thermostat opens again from re-heating it, and so the less time the radiator has to reduce coolant temps, and so it re-enters the engine even hotter each time... until you over heat.

You need to take a stock radiator, whatever size you want to use (or measurements) to a radiator shop and have them make something in the correct size to hold the proper volume between enlarged tanks and more predominantly thicker cooling cores, and then have a fan matched (for proper physical size, but also for CFM to match the thickness of the core).
Once you have that, all things being equal the proper volume of coolant will enter the radiator, be cooled at the proper rate/timeline to sufficiently reduce radiator temp before the thermostat opens again, even with AC on..

barneyb

Since the engine cools fine anytime but when stopped maybe it needs nothing more than a better radiator fan. Anyway, fixing the conventional cooling system is the way to go.

Pal215

iTrader: (12)

I would agree with the above. Best to fix the engine cooling issue. If not....

I high torque DC motor on a switch is going to be your best bet. You'll also need to put the AC clutch on a switch unless it's driven by the OEM controller. The AC compressor clutch isn't always engaged either, it shuts off and turns back on while the AC is running. You'll have to first calculate the ratio of the crank pulley vs the AC compressor pulley to find out how many RPM's you'll need to drive the AC compressor. It could be somewhere in the range of 2000 to 5000 RPM for good cooling. Then there's the jig that you will have to bolt up under the evo to hold the dc motor.

steven121

iTrader: (27)

I thought about that and your right they are hard to find, I have looked into a 3 quarters radiator but to have one made in aluminum is 500+ depending on the size, eventually it come to the point where I will do that since I plan on keeping this car for awhile and the setup I have allows for AC to use a small honda condensor

steven121

iTrader: (27)

im using the stock one since the Slim fan I had was not cutting it, when im on the highway car temps were beyond perfect, its the stop and go traffic where I have issues and thats when I have to plan accordingly where i drive locally. Cruise trips are no issue.

But maybe ill look into a custom radiaor then that allows for the forward face turbo to not be covered up

steven121

iTrader: (27)

I appreciate it, that is very helpful!

barneyb

This seems like a stupid thing to suggest but maybe throw in a new thermostat. They can from time to time go wacky. Chances are it won't fix anything but only a small expense to find out.