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ISSUES: OEM Fan Control Module w/ Flex-A-Lite Fan

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Old Jul 31, 2019 | 07:15 AM
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Unhappy ISSUES: OEM Fan Control Module w/ Flex-A-Lite Fan

Hello,

I'm having issues blowing out the OEM radiator fan control module ever since I switched to a flex-a-lite slim fan. Does any one else have this problem? I'm only running an inline 15amp fuse between the fan and module as I thought it would help but for whatever reason I'm on my 4th radiator FCM! I believe I'm running 14ga wire from fan to the inline fuse holder which is 18ga wire and then 14ga wire to the FCM.

Does any one have pictures or wiring diagram of how they wired their slim fans? I really don't want to hard wire a switch as I want the ECU to control the fan and I was told I could try a relay setup but I'm not good with relays.

Thanks!!
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Old Jul 31, 2019 | 07:48 AM
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On mine, I just cut the 2 wires going to the fan and directly wired them to my thin fan.

Did you mount your fan control module in the same spot so it can stay cool? I had to tig-weld a bracket that holds my whole setup just like the factory one.

How much current is your fan drawing? The current will generate heat, if that heat isn't flowed away you will have problems. This is why I like to measure current with my inductive current clamp and view it on my picoscope.

Last edited by Jp7; Jul 31, 2019 at 08:01 AM.
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Old Jul 31, 2019 | 11:21 AM
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I have two slim fans running off the oem control module.
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Old Jul 31, 2019 | 12:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Jp7
On mine, I just cut the 2 wires going to the fan and directly wired them to my thin fan.

Did you mount your fan control module in the same spot so it can stay cool? I had to tig-weld a bracket that holds my whole setup just like the factory one.

How much current is your fan drawing? The current will generate heat, if that heat isn't flowed away you will have problems. This is why I like to measure current with my inductive current clamp and view it on my picoscope.
No I actually mounted it where the stock EBC would be located so it's not that far away and seems to get some airflow however not on the back of the fan where it would get the most air flow. I suppose I could just ziptie it to the back of the fan for now until I make a bracket. I know it gets warm which I'm guessing is my issues that it overheats eventually and just pops.

I just think it's weird that others just wire it directly without any issues. I mean it's possible the slim fan is pulling way too much current for the module to handle??

Originally Posted by Evo9_Dubai
I have two slim fans running off the oem control module.
Just wired directly to it with no inline fuse or any relay? Where did you mount your oem control module? I'm thinking maybe mine is getting way to hot mounted too far away from the fan? Do you have any pictures?
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Old Jul 31, 2019 | 12:47 PM
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Originally Posted by FenixTX717
No I actually mounted it where the stock EBC would be located so it's not that far away and seems to get some airflow however not on the back of the fan where it would get the most air flow. I suppose I could just ziptie it to the back of the fan for now until I make a bracket. I know it gets warm which I'm guessing is my issues that it overheats eventually and just pops.

I just think it's weird that others just wire it directly without any issues. I mean it's possible the slim fan is pulling way too much current for the module to handle??
These pictures were taken in 2009 or 2010 but my setup really hasn't changed. Hell the car only has had about 6000 miles put on it since then.

















It's been years since I've played with this, but my guess is that the PCM simply sends a pulse-width modulated signal to the base of a transistor inside of the fan module. This drive the fans with a duty-cycle controlled current, so they can go faster or slower. This is similar to fuel injection. (just an assumption, I could be wrong).

An oscilliscope is a really nice way of measuring this. On my scope (picoscope) I have the ability to measure the duty cycle directly (I don't have to calculate it)

If your engine is running hot all the time and this is causing your fans to work super hard, I would guess you could see a high duty cycle constantly. Mitsubishi probably picked a transistor driver in the module that will handle 90% duty cycle alot because of hot climates. That being said, it needs to get chilled by the cool air flow from the fan- hence the huge aluminum heatsink.

Last edited by Jp7; Jul 31, 2019 at 12:59 PM.
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Old Jul 31, 2019 | 01:38 PM
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Thanks man I appreciate it! The pictures definitely help and that's a really nice setup you have. I'm going to just zip tie the module to the back of the fan for now until I have time to mock-up and make a mount of some sort.

Just super weird that I've been having so many issues with these damn modules. I did read that it was common for these to go out back in the earlier lancer years and many 2003 Evo but mines a 2005 and I just picked up a 2006 module. I tried one of the cheap china ones on Amazon but that only lasted a few weeks and took a crap. This gives me hope that all I have to do is wire it directly to the module and not deal with relays and such.

Only other thing I can think of is the Fex-a-lite fan just pulls too much current which if that's the case then I'd need to run a relay anyways.
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Old Jul 31, 2019 | 03:39 PM
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Originally Posted by FenixTX717
Thanks man I appreciate it! The pictures definitely help and that's a really nice setup you have. I'm going to just zip tie the module to the back of the fan for now until I have time to mock-up and make a mount of some sort.

Just super weird that I've been having so many issues with these damn modules. I did read that it was common for these to go out back in the earlier lancer years and many 2003 Evo but mines a 2005 and I just picked up a 2006 module. I tried one of the cheap china ones on Amazon but that only lasted a few weeks and took a crap. This gives me hope that all I have to do is wire it directly to the module and not deal with relays and such.

Only other thing I can think of is the Fex-a-lite fan just pulls too much current which if that's the case then I'd need to run a relay anyways.
If indeed my assumption is correct and the output of the module is in a PWM format, it would be unwise to use any sort of external relay.

In this way, the PWM output would constantly be making and breaking the magnetic field on the coil, and the relay would probably just make a buzz noise.

Look up videos on youtube by "scannerdanner" to better understand pulsewidth modulated outputs. You will enjoy it.
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Old Aug 3, 2019 | 04:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Evo9_Dubai
I have two slim fans running off the oem control module.
How? any pictures? A/C fan connectors, or some kind of split?
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Old Aug 21, 2019 | 08:55 AM
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Well....update. IDK WTF is going on now. I blew another fan!!!! Car was running fine for a week or 2 and car started getting hot. I thought it was the FCM so swapped it out with a good working one and it didn't work. Then hooked the fan directly up to the battery and the fan will barely spin but only after I tap on the back of it.

I'm not sure what else to do besides go back to a completely stock fan set up but unfortunately that won't fit. Anyone else have any ideas on why I keep having so many FCM issues and now blowing out a 2nd slim fan?
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