Old cars don't need salt to rust. Water collecting in areas and not being able to get out does plenty of damage. Protection and coatings weren't a thing, back then.

 

Exactly my point. I had cars that where 100% in California their whole life that showed rust.

 

Unfortunately they started .
https://sacramento.cbslocal.com/2019...ntal-concerns/

They do not apply with heavy spreaders but spray a brine solution. I got caught behind one of them once and wondered if it was what I thought...It was .....
At least it was in a leased car instead of a keeper.

 

My observation has been that cars sitting off pavement in Japan tend to rust badly and most of the trash GTRs I've seen look like they've been sitting for a while. I was trying to buy a big-block 1967 Mustang out of Japan that was sitting in a field, likely for 25+ years, I remember that the car rusted in places where North American Mustangs didn't, which I attributed to the general climate. Moss grows on cars there and they rust very consistently on surfaces where moisture doesn't even pool, whereas North American cars rarely see moss (at least in my area), and the areas where moisture pools gets hit the worst - like the bottom of quarter panels, doors and floors. The cars that are driven and stored indoors in Japan tend to have very clean undercarriages, since they don't get exposed to whatever condition this is. JDM Connection typically includes undercarriage photos of their cars, and the average Japanese Evo looks a lot better than the average North American Evo: https://jdmconnection.ca/inventory/2...lution-7-gt-a/

I'm attaching a picture of my Evo's chassis. The car was around 27 years old when this photo was taken; the first 15-16 were in Japan, then to Canada. It was abused by its first Canadian owner for a few months before my ownership, and I have kept it in climate-controlled storage since 2010. It hasn't seen snow since I first drove it home in spring, 2009. Regardless, the undercarriage barely aged in those first 15 years, even though the body took a beating. I pulled the entire rear suspension apart (subframe and diff mounts too) with a 3/8" ratchet. There wasn't a single seized bolt.

 

One thing I have noticed is cars that sit on jacks tend to do worse than on tires. It probably has something to do with being isolated from earth ground vs not.

 

Is there a source, in English, for wiring diagrams for evos 1-3? I have a friend who just imported an Evo 2 and tried to install a radio. It didn't go as easily as it should have.

 

I've never seen one personally. Some Evo123ers pointed to this before, not sure if it has wiring info: https://www.mediafire.com/file/bd80i...anual.zip/file

These two photos have also been referenced for someone who asked about wiring a radio:

 

Bought all new rotors and pads, and caliper rebuild kits. Plus new swaybar endlinks and tierods. Also have several new superpro bushings. So decided to put car on stands. Haven't cleaned anything on the underside yet. Cleaner than most USDM evos out there! Quite happy with the purchase, car is in great shape.

 

Managed to score a set of Enkei Tarmac WRC Evo wheels. They are basically the same wheel as the WRC Evo 3 Tarmac except these arent made of magnesium or I'd have to sell my house to pay for them. They are 17x7. Pretty rare. But they are going to look so sweet. Here are other Queens Silver Evo 3s sporting them for ref

 

Also talking to Art Gennari of Gennari Turbos about having the Evo3 16g being rebuilt into a billet 9blade 20g. Probably going to need to pickup a standalone as there isnt much I'll be able to do tuning wise with the OE computer. Considering going with a Haltech once the times right.

 

Beautiful car!! Congrats!

I just picked up an Evo III as well. Same color too. For some weird reason, it also is amazing looking underneath. My front lip is super damaged though, so that will be coming off and getting fixed. Yours looks really good.

 

Was that the one that was for sale recently with like 600 whp?

 

I was, yes. It was built by a good friend of mine. We worked out a deal to get me back into the Evo game after a 12 year hiatus. I am glad to be back.

 

Clean

 

Look into Link G4X EVO 1-3 plugin ECU
Plug and play for your application, with ability to have additional I/O and canbus as well
Should cost <US$1K for the ECU, pretty good deal