I was recently driving home when the dreaded 3 ACD lights came on in my '05 Evo 8. I have already had the ACD pump replaced once after a mechanic didn't bleed it when replacing the clutch. I haven't confirmed yet that the pump has died but this pump was used when I got it so I'm just assuming the worst. How common is this for people? I'm worried that if I replace this pump with another used one that it will just fail right away since these pumps are all now approximately 15 years old.

 

I bought a less rusty one than what i currently have, to rebuild it. Hopefully i get a good amount of years out of it.

 

I just went through this not long ago and had to find a used pump since my housing was severely corroded and cracked. surprisingly the used one actually worked without rebuild. But many people follow the pump rebuild tutorial posted around this site. i believe a rebuild kit costs ~$200.

 

Not bleeding the acd wont damage anything, you did not need to replace it after the clutch install.
I would start by bleeding your current acd pump. If that doesn't fix it, replace it with your original acd pump and bleed that one (make sure you know the proper method). If neither work after bleeding, then look around on this forum or ebay for a used one. You can usually find them around $500. The best option imo is to rebuild it with this for $105 Rebuild Kit. There is a great how-to video on youtube.

 

It is more common in corrosive areas, like salted road areas (non-CA) or maybe coastal areas.
I've had to replace mine but it was dead when I bought the car so no clue how it died.

I wish a company would offer a rebuild service, I didn't have any luck with the rebuild kit.
I had to replace it with a used one from Florida, which was the second used one I bought. The first one was DOA and I was able return through ebay and get my money back.

So basically, I recommend buying through ebay for the return policy. And I wouldn't buy from a corrosive area (Michigan, etc.)
Or there is one somewhat local to you, https://sacramento.craigslist.org/pt...073439388.html

 

I live in the rust belt, and mine died at 100k miles. The housing was cracked pretty bad, so it couldn't be rebuilt. I ended up finding a used one from Florida on eBay and sealed the joints with some sort of sealant. I don't drive my car in the winter any more, so hopefully it lasts a long time.

 

Replaced Nd rebuilt. The rebuild kit i ordered came with new stainless steel pump plate, bearings, hardware and o rings.

 

I could never get my pump to turn on to bleed it for some reason. I'll have to look at it again this year when it comes out of storage. The pump itself looks pristine and the car doesn't have much mileage on it...just never could get it to turn on when I had the car in the air.

 

I moved my acd pump into the trunk years back to hopefully extend its life and move it from a crash zone. So far its working well. IIRC Drivenfab was working on a relocate kit.

 

My first Evo , I bought brand new and at 37,000 or 39,000 miles the ACD pump failed due to corrosion . I think I was still under warranty but I just went ahead and converted my car to non ACD.

I dont see any benefit to having ACD for the purposes of how I used my Evo .

 

That is pretty early for a failure. I just want to clear something up .

I've driven my car with the acd ecu out, stock acd tune , and a modified acd tune. The ACD has a huge effect on how well the car handles and powers in/out of corners. The engineers at mitsubishi knew what they were doing after years of rally racing.

You may not use your car in that way but some of us like to. I just don't want people to get the idea of deleting the acd because they read it on the internet. Alot of people went to a non acd tcase for drag racing years back. Now, people are going back to the acd tcase and going right into the 7's.

 

Are you using your ACD tcase with the ACD ECU removed as a performance reference to a non ACD tcase ?

 

No, I'm using the car the way it was engineered with the ACD Tcase. Just added an ACD flash. The flash made a dramatic difference and there are a few threads on it.

When you disconnect the acd ecu it opens the diff and drives poorly.

My point earlier was to use the technology the car came with to go faster/handle better.

Occasionally people do things that other people did because they thought it was a good idea. Deleting the mivec on a less then 1000whp car, or adding concrete for less then 1200whp, non acd tcase etc..

 

I agree with this 100%. After driving with my ACD out for a while and not realizing it...fixing it made such a noticeable difference.

 

Thanks for clarifying. I was under the impression that when you said you drove your car without the ACD ecu, you might have assumed that’s how non ACD tcase performes or feels. Which is not true.

i agree with you that the ACD does help with cornering and probably even more with the ACD ecu tuned. But I just daily drove my previous Evo and only track it saw was drag racing . I just didn’t see any benefit of ACD for the streets . Plus I wanted one less thing to break.

Unfortunately Chicago salted winter roads corroded mine quite early . That’s why when I got my current Evo , I made sure it was from a state that does not have snow/salted roads.