Transfer Case drain plug threading
Transfer Case drain plug threading
The reason is you may not get a true full fill when the fluid pours out the fill hole. If you use the fill hole, you should fill to overflow, drive the car a bit or get the wheels moving while car is on jackstands, and then fill again.
https://www.jackstransmissions.com/b...t-case-filling
https://www.jackstransmissions.com/b...t-case-filling
i add a stub of a 10mm silicon hose (14mm OD) on my fill barb and its snug that I can put all 1 quart in there with no spill, until i need to put the fill plug in. That would still spill slower that thru the drain plug
The reason is you may not get a true full fill when the fluid pours out the fill hole. If you use the fill hole, you should fill to overflow, drive the car a bit or get the wheels moving while car is on jackstands, and then fill again.
https://www.jackstransmissions.com/b...t-case-filling
https://www.jackstransmissions.com/b...t-case-filling
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Exactly what I did, M18 x 1.5 to 1/8 adapter and a 1/8 barbed fitting. Screw it straight into drain holes on the transfer and diff (after draining out the old oil) and fill them from below using a 1L hand pump. I can put in exactly the amount I want (overfilling the transfer case is recommended by local people in the know) and I know it's definitely in the diff and transfer. After I've filled them I remove the hose and pop a little cap on the barb, then unscrew the whole thing out of the transfer (or diff) and quickly screw in the sump plug, would say I drop about 15mls of oil doing this, that I account for when I put the oil in. I can do an oil change on the diff and transfer case in about 5 minutes, it's about a million times easier than doing it the "normal" way.
Exactly what I did, M18 x 1.5 to 1/8 adapter and a 1/8 barbed fitting. Screw it straight into drain holes on the transfer and diff (after draining out the old oil) and fill them from below using a 1L hand pump. I can put in exactly the amount I want (overfilling the transfer case is recommended by local people in the know) and I know it's definitely in the diff and transfer. After I've filled them I remove the hose and pop a little cap on the barb, then unscrew the whole thing out of the transfer (or diff) and quickly screw in the sump plug, would say I drop about 15mls of oil doing this, that I account for when I put the oil in. I can do an oil change on the diff and transfer case in about 5 minutes, it's about a million times easier than doing it the "normal" way.
No, not at all. I run Diaqueen oils, and both the transfer and diff oils (75w85 and 90w) are very viscous, especially in winter (and that's an Australian winter, so maybe 15c), so very little, around 20mls, comes out between plug swaps, not even enough to have it drip off your hand into the tray underneath. Also, you still have the filler plug installed, so there's a vacuum trying to keep the oil inside, if you know what I mean. The little pump is from a local (Australian) car accessory shop, it's just a 1L hand pump, I'm sure something similar should be available in the States from some car parts seller.
No, not at all. I run Diaqueen oils, and both the transfer and diff oils (75w85 and 90w) are very viscous, especially in winter (and that's an Australian winter, so maybe 15c), so very little, around 20mls, comes out between plug swaps, not even enough to have it drip off your hand into the tray underneath. Also, you still have the filler plug installed, so there's a vacuum trying to keep the oil inside, if you know what I mean. The little pump is from a local (Australian) car accessory shop, it's just a 1L hand pump, I'm sure something similar should be available in the States from some car parts seller.
it's not as if the fill until it pours out method is much cleaner, esp the wya i do it (wait until it dribbles, then pump even more as fast as i can and close up the plug)
I just use one of these
If you use a check valve that is the correct or equivalent thread diameter and pitch then there is less fluid loss when swapping out the valve for the drain plug. I usually fill it when hot so that is why I prefer using the check valve.
If you use a check valve that is the correct or equivalent thread diameter and pitch then there is less fluid loss when swapping out the valve for the drain plug. I usually fill it when hot so that is why I prefer using the check valve.
I just use one of these https://www.amazon.com/Slippery-Pete...07CX4XKFH?th=1
If you use a check valve that is the correct or equivalent thread diameter and pitch then there is less fluid loss when swapping out the valve for the drain plug. I usually fill it when hot so that is why I prefer using the check valve.
If you use a check valve that is the correct or equivalent thread diameter and pitch then there is less fluid loss when swapping out the valve for the drain plug. I usually fill it when hot so that is why I prefer using the check valve.
i have a similar one from HF. i use it on all the gear oils including red line quarts and gallons. I just stock up on the clear hoses ... the ones from Lowes/HD dont get hard











