Evo 9 Running Rich when hot?
Evo 9 Running Rich when hot?
Hi So to start off my short block is built ish, wiseco pistons 85.5 9:0:1, manley i beam turbo tuff rods, king race bearings, balance shaft delete,
speed density, injen intake kit with intercooler piping, 18psi turbo smart actuator, MAP turbo housing, id1300, aem 320lph fuel pump, turbo and heads is stock.
The car is tuned by Raif at RRT. So when I do 2nd gear wot all the to 4th itll run a little rich. AFR reads from 10-11 at wot.
Then if i try to do it again or drive the car for awhile and do it, the car will start running really rich and AFR will go all the way down to 8 and it will hesitate..
so i turned off the car for about an hour and half and i do 3 pulls 2nd to 3rd at wot the car runs back to normal, but then i drive it a little bit longer normally and then i try to go wot again then it does the same again AFR goes down to 8.
At idle and crusing the car runs fine. idk what to do.
speed density, injen intake kit with intercooler piping, 18psi turbo smart actuator, MAP turbo housing, id1300, aem 320lph fuel pump, turbo and heads is stock.
The car is tuned by Raif at RRT. So when I do 2nd gear wot all the to 4th itll run a little rich. AFR reads from 10-11 at wot.
Then if i try to do it again or drive the car for awhile and do it, the car will start running really rich and AFR will go all the way down to 8 and it will hesitate..
so i turned off the car for about an hour and half and i do 3 pulls 2nd to 3rd at wot the car runs back to normal, but then i drive it a little bit longer normally and then i try to go wot again then it does the same again AFR goes down to 8.
At idle and crusing the car runs fine. idk what to do.
Hi So to start off my short block is built ish, wiseco pistons 85.5 9:0:1, manley i beam turbo tuff rods, king race bearings, balance shaft delete,
speed density, injen intake kit with intercooler piping, 18psi turbo smart actuator, MAP turbo housing, id1300, aem 320lph fuel pump, turbo and heads is stock.
The car is tuned by Raif at RRT. So when I do 2nd gear wot all the to 4th itll run a little rich. AFR reads from 10-11 at wot.
Then if i try to do it again or drive the car for awhile and do it, the car will start running really rich and AFR will go all the way down to 8 and it will hesitate..
so i turned off the car for about an hour and half and i do 3 pulls 2nd to 3rd at wot the car runs back to normal, but then i drive it a little bit longer normally and then i try to go wot again then it does the same again AFR goes down to 8.
At idle and crusing the car runs fine. idk what to do.
speed density, injen intake kit with intercooler piping, 18psi turbo smart actuator, MAP turbo housing, id1300, aem 320lph fuel pump, turbo and heads is stock.
The car is tuned by Raif at RRT. So when I do 2nd gear wot all the to 4th itll run a little rich. AFR reads from 10-11 at wot.
Then if i try to do it again or drive the car for awhile and do it, the car will start running really rich and AFR will go all the way down to 8 and it will hesitate..
so i turned off the car for about an hour and half and i do 3 pulls 2nd to 3rd at wot the car runs back to normal, but then i drive it a little bit longer normally and then i try to go wot again then it does the same again AFR goes down to 8.
At idle and crusing the car runs fine. idk what to do.
Based on your description, it sounds like you might be dealing with an issue related to heat soak, fuel delivery, or a sensor reading improperly when hot. Here are a few things to consider:
1. **Fuel Delivery**: If the issue seems to get worse the longer you drive, it could be related to your fuel delivery system. It might be worth checking your fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, fuel filter, and fuel lines. Also, you mentioned that you have ID1300 injectors. Make sure they are not clogged and are functioning properly.
2. **Heat Soak**: Components such as your Mass Airflow Sensor (if you were not fully speed density) or Intake Air Temperature sensor (in your speed density setup) can start to read inaccurately if they become heat-soaked, leading to rich conditions.
3. **Coolant Temperature Sensor**: If this sensor is reading inaccurately when hot, it can cause the ECU to think the engine is colder than it really is, leading to a rich condition.
4. **O2 Sensor**: Over time, oxygen sensors can become less effective or fail, especially when hot. This might cause your AFRs to read incorrectly, or your ECU to target the wrong AFR.
5. **Tuning**: It might also be worth checking back with your tuner. There may be some adjustments that can be made to the tune to help with this issue. Ensure that your tune is properly set for the modifications and specific setup of your vehicle.
1. **Fuel Delivery**: If the issue seems to get worse the longer you drive, it could be related to your fuel delivery system. It might be worth checking your fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, fuel filter, and fuel lines. Also, you mentioned that you have ID1300 injectors. Make sure they are not clogged and are functioning properly.
2. **Heat Soak**: Components such as your Mass Airflow Sensor (if you were not fully speed density) or Intake Air Temperature sensor (in your speed density setup) can start to read inaccurately if they become heat-soaked, leading to rich conditions.
3. **Coolant Temperature Sensor**: If this sensor is reading inaccurately when hot, it can cause the ECU to think the engine is colder than it really is, leading to a rich condition.
4. **O2 Sensor**: Over time, oxygen sensors can become less effective or fail, especially when hot. This might cause your AFRs to read incorrectly, or your ECU to target the wrong AFR.
5. **Tuning**: It might also be worth checking back with your tuner. There may be some adjustments that can be made to the tune to help with this issue. Ensure that your tune is properly set for the modifications and specific setup of your vehicle.
Based on your description, it sounds like you might be dealing with an issue related to heat soak, fuel delivery, or a sensor reading improperly when hot. Here are a few things to consider:
1. **Fuel Delivery**: If the issue seems to get worse the longer you drive, it could be related to your fuel delivery system. It might be worth checking your fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, fuel filter, and fuel lines. Also, you mentioned that you have ID1300 injectors. Make sure they are not clogged and are functioning properly.
2. **Heat Soak**: Components such as your Mass Airflow Sensor (if you were not fully speed density) or Intake Air Temperature sensor (in your speed density setup) can start to read inaccurately if they become heat-soaked, leading to rich conditions.
3. **Coolant Temperature Sensor**: If this sensor is reading inaccurately when hot, it can cause the ECU to think the engine is colder than it really is, leading to a rich condition.
4. **O2 Sensor**: Over time, oxygen sensors can become less effective or fail, especially when hot. This might cause your AFRs to read incorrectly, or your ECU to target the wrong AFR.
5. **Tuning**: It might also be worth checking back with your tuner. There may be some adjustments that can be made to the tune to help with this issue. Ensure that your tune is properly set for the modifications and specific setup of your vehicle.
1. **Fuel Delivery**: If the issue seems to get worse the longer you drive, it could be related to your fuel delivery system. It might be worth checking your fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, fuel filter, and fuel lines. Also, you mentioned that you have ID1300 injectors. Make sure they are not clogged and are functioning properly.
2. **Heat Soak**: Components such as your Mass Airflow Sensor (if you were not fully speed density) or Intake Air Temperature sensor (in your speed density setup) can start to read inaccurately if they become heat-soaked, leading to rich conditions.
3. **Coolant Temperature Sensor**: If this sensor is reading inaccurately when hot, it can cause the ECU to think the engine is colder than it really is, leading to a rich condition.
4. **O2 Sensor**: Over time, oxygen sensors can become less effective or fail, especially when hot. This might cause your AFRs to read incorrectly, or your ECU to target the wrong AFR.
5. **Tuning**: It might also be worth checking back with your tuner. There may be some adjustments that can be made to the tune to help with this issue. Ensure that your tune is properly set for the modifications and specific setup of your vehicle.
I’m leaning towards heat soak, due to driving it to work during the day and night. Driving during the day it happens and when I drove it last night and the night before on the way home it drove perfectly fine. The same distance, drove it harder. I also still have my MAF, so I’m not fully on SD. Thanks a lot for you input. Much appreciated.
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