I installed a walbro 450 in my car after running out of pump on the 255 with e85. I put in thicker gauge wiring from the battery and spliced it in and it ran great for a long time on street and track.
Then one day I filled up with gas and it stranded me almost immediately. Turned out that it had heated the pin enough at the connection in the hanger to melt the plastic enough for fuel to leak through and short out. Annoyingly, it never blew any fuses but luckily it didn't melt any actual wires.
I guess this is what I deserve for taking shortcuts... But this car is pretty tame and probably doesn't need a 450, are there any drop in-ish fuel pump options available to us now that'd support 450-500whp on e85 that would survive with partially stock wiring and such?
Figured I'd ask before going into the hobbs switch install.

What is your setup? I ran the 255 out to 500whp without issue.

You could look at wiring the 450, the hellcat 525, or even a DW300, but I think that is pretty similar to the 255.

On e85? I even tested my 255 with a new one to make sure it was good.

Yea, I think it was technically like 480whp? (note that this is virtual dyno numbers comparable to DynoJet numbers)
I punched the relief valve and ran that for 3+ years.

Where were you at when you ran out of pump on the 255? Boost, base pressure, etc?

As an aside, you could use a bulkhead connector to pass the power through the fuel hat instead of the connector. Given your current setup, that might be the easiest option if you want to keep the 450 or similar.

Something like this but meant for fuel, I think this one is more of a sheet metal setup.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/r...G5kpU#overview

AEM340 green pump. E85 rated and is the highest flowing, most reliable drop in pump. Should have enough huff to get you to 500 if your injectors are large enough.

Honestly hard to remember exactly, but it was low 30s on a bbk turbo with 1200cc injectors
I had recorded the fuel pressure gauge while making pulls and could see it fall under high boost and swapping out the pump didn't help
Wiring through the hanger itself would probably be what I'd do but I tested the wiring and everything still seems to work (the connector is charred though) so I may just swap pumps.

AEM340 green looks good

Yea, punching the relief valve would probably help that pressure drop. I know that I was running that thing pretty hard.

Might be worth just swapping to the AEM and maybe still doing the bulkhead. If the connector is the weak point, that would eliminate it as a failure point.

My question is you hard wired from the battery, did you upgrade the ground wire as well? Why would you install a hobbs switch on a single fuel pump install? I am confused on this. Stock walbro 255 should survive stock wiring even if its punched out. If you rewired it and didn't properly ground it with correct size your going to draw way to much amperage. Did you install a relay with the rewire? If not that maybe your problem as well. One more thing is your rewire should have some sort of circuit breaker and or fuse as well. I did that with my stealth and it makes things lot easier being if i blow the circuit i can just reset it instead of having to find a damn fuse that I can never find.

Yes I upgraded the ground as well. A lot of people recommend using a hobbs switch to run lower voltage on the pump when not in boost like the factory system. They do it for the life of the pump and for ease of off boost tuning but I guess doing it to keep the hanger from melting is a new one... I have a relay and 20A fuse on the line and it never blew.

Not saying you by any means so please don't take this that way but the hobbs is stupid without the second pump. Who ever told you that has the right theory but worng idea and shouldn't be giving advice like that. For years when my car ran just a single pump I used stock wiring. Now with my system I have obviously a larger fuel system but I never had any issues with stuff melting even when pushing it hard. I had this issue in my talon years ago and it was a ground issue being I ran to small of a ground with larger wire for the power and I melted pumps inside the tank. Scary stuff let me tell you specially with lower fuel levels. I like I said in my stealth run the relay like its suppose to have and a circuit breaker instead of an inline fuse. I would go to that being Hobbs switch in theory does the same thing its activated by boost. Once you get to a point where you run multi pumps get rid of the hobbs switch and let your ecu run the pumps itself so that way one less thing to go wrong in the system.

I see. I didn't find any of that stuff out, I'm just regurgitating what I've read on here just like 90% of people on forums haha.
I grounded in the trunk, 12awg I think... I'll take another look at it.