SS clutch line/restrictor pill?
Dirk didn't mention that to me when I was inquiring about their street disc (repackaged excedy)... That's what I was thinking of doing instead of removing it completely... It'd be nice to find a happy medium with having to be overly cautious on how you engage/disengage your clutch. Well, that and come to think of it, I probably still have the pill in my slave if you describe it as the "wait to shift" symptom... I'm assuming you can slam gears a lot quicker now?
In your opinion, which would you recommend based on your personal experience? Boring it out or removing it completely?
In your opinion, which would you recommend based on your personal experience? Boring it out or removing it completely?
You can call up ACT and ask them directly what they recommend. I removed the restrictor on my GSX and never looked back. A lot of people have removed their restrictors on their EVOs and don't have any issues. You just need to launch more carefully as you'll be able to induce more shock down the driveline if you let the clutch out to fast. Once you get your left foot trained, you'll be glad you did the mod.
Since I never tried boring out a restrictor, I can only recommend removing it. I can definitely slam gears a lot quicker now. It's not only noticeable during redline shifts, but under normal driving as well.
Since I never tried boring out a restrictor, I can only recommend removing it. I can definitely slam gears a lot quicker now. It's not only noticeable during redline shifts, but under normal driving as well.
Yeah... That vagueness between the time you fully depress the clutch to the time the shifter goes into the next gear without grinding is kind of bothersome... It's funny coz I didn't even think about that when i still had my 95 TSI Talon... I just put up with the vagueness the whole time I owned the car... Well, If that's the case, I'd rather have something left should I feel the need to go back to stock...
Originally Posted by marksae
You can call up ACT and ask them directly what they recommend. I removed the restrictor on my GSX and never looked back. A lot of people have removed their restrictors on their EVOs and don't have any issues. You just need to launch more carefully as you'll be able to induce more shock down the driveline if you let the clutch out to fast. Once you get your left foot trained, you'll be glad you did the mod.
Since I never tried boring out a restrictor, I can only recommend removing it. I can definitely slam gears a lot quicker now. It's not only noticeable during redline shifts, but under normal driving as well.
Since I never tried boring out a restrictor, I can only recommend removing it. I can definitely slam gears a lot quicker now. It's not only noticeable during redline shifts, but under normal driving as well.
The only reason to leave it in would be if you were not good at shifting or only interested in clutch dropping.
HoLee-
As far as bleeding it out I have never gotten the clutch to fully bleed back to normal without pumping the crap out of it for a about 10 minutes of driving. Every time you stop pull the e-brake leave it out of gear and the pound on the clutch until the light changes. Make sure the reservoir is full. I’ve done this several times and it works. Your pedal should feel the same as before the pill removal. Before it is fully bleed the engagement point will be very low so shift slowly and carefully until then.
Originally Posted by erikgj
As far as bleeding it out I have never gotten the clutch to fully bleed back to normal without pumping the crap out of it for a about 10 minutes of driving. Every time you stop pull the e-brake leave it out of gear and the pound on the clutch until the light changes. Make sure the reservoir is full. I’ve done this several times and it works. Your pedal should feel the same as before the pill removal. Before it is fully bleed the engagement point will be very low so shift slowly and carefully until then.
Originally Posted by DaGuL
Really? Clutch engagement is that much lower? Then I really should try this out... I'm not a big fan of how much I have to let off before it engages...
Originally Posted by marksae
Check all the lines to make sure there are no leaks. It sounds like you have a leak somewhere and are getting air in the line. I don't have to pump my clutch 10 times to get it to go into gear smoothly. My car drives like normal. Are you sure you're bleeding your line properly?
Originally Posted by ldstang50
Basically what you pay is what you get. ACT buys its pressure plates off of exede, powder coats them yelloe and throws in a cheaper clutch disc. The pressure plate is steel, thus being very heavy. The steel pressure plate has more centrifugal force than a Exede clutch when spinning at high rpms. The weak synchros in our trannies are unable to slow up the pressure plate and clutch in time for you to engage gears correctly and effeciently. Plus for the gripping power you get, the clutch is heavy. An exede twin disc has a lighter pedal feel but holds more, yes I know its a twin disc so it should. Also my pedal feel is not consistent at all. My main thing is, I did not have ANY transmission problems till I put this clutch in about a year ago. It has done very well with holding up to 60+ drag strip launches and many street launches. But you get what you pay for. At the time thats all I could afford, would I go back to ACT, not if the money is good, I'll spend the extra loot and get an Exede.
My other experiences with ACT clutches are on DSMs. ACT is the only clutch I have seen come completely apart. I've seen many ACTs where the springs rip out or fall out of the clutch disc. This on 300whp cars! No where near the limits of the clutch.
I just had a bad experience with ACT, not a horrible one.
My other experiences with ACT clutches are on DSMs. ACT is the only clutch I have seen come completely apart. I've seen many ACTs where the springs rip out or fall out of the clutch disc. This on 300whp cars! No where near the limits of the clutch.
I just had a bad experience with ACT, not a horrible one.
the pressure plate does not slow down via the synchros during shifting. The pressure plate is bolted to the flywheel/crank, and will turn at whatever rpm the engine is running regardless of whether the clutch is engaged or disengaged. It's only the clutch disc. I'd take the quoted post and the posters opinion on this matter with a grain of salt.
Sitting back reading it all... My 04 tranny doesnt like to go into gear fast... The restrictor is coming out, for now Ill use the semi new rubber line that came on the car stock.. The Gm Synchromesh is chemically identical to the Pennzoil Synchroshift. Ill opt for the yellow bottle.
After the fact, and I bled it for quite a while, I too have noticed that the clutch pedal on the return stroke seems to have a small area that is slows and then "thunks" to the at rest position.
Bled it somemore, and its hasnt went away. I figured Id drive it a bit and see what happens.
24 hours later: Working like a charm, clutch disengages and engages perfect. Shifts are solid as a rock at 8000+rpms.
After the fact, and I bled it for quite a while, I too have noticed that the clutch pedal on the return stroke seems to have a small area that is slows and then "thunks" to the at rest position.
Bled it somemore, and its hasnt went away. I figured Id drive it a bit and see what happens.
24 hours later: Working like a charm, clutch disengages and engages perfect. Shifts are solid as a rock at 8000+rpms.
Last edited by spyonu2007; Nov 3, 2005 at 11:08 AM.
Evolving Member
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 145
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From: SoCal
i had the tranny shop install the ss clutch line when they did the clutch install . I told them to take out the restrictor pill but im not sure if he did.
how can you tell if the restrictor pill is still there
how can you tell if the restrictor pill is still there
Evolving Member
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 145
Likes: 0
From: SoCal
You should be able to tell by the feel of it, although on the road it's kinda tricky (if you drive like a normal person anyway). From personal experience, the biggest difference between "pill" and "no pill" is on a loose surface. So if you have an open patch of dirt, gravel or sand or something, you could try getting the revs high and dropping the clutch real quick. If the wheels spin and start immediately scrabbling for grip, then the pill is probably out. If it seems to take its time to get moving then the pill is probably still in there (because it's slowly engaging the clutch instead of transmitting the drive straight to the wheels).
Of course you could also do the same in a parking lot or whatever, but the stress on the drivetrain is magnitudes more when the force to spin the wheels is that high.
Not very scientific or conclusive I'm afraid. The only certain option would be to pull the airbox/filter, take the slave cylinder out and take a look inside. Using some of the instructions in the link above, it wouldn't be a tough job (maybe an hour or so, start to finish) and the clutch line is quick and easy to bleed as long as you have a helper.
Of course you could also do the same in a parking lot or whatever, but the stress on the drivetrain is magnitudes more when the force to spin the wheels is that high.
Not very scientific or conclusive I'm afraid. The only certain option would be to pull the airbox/filter, take the slave cylinder out and take a look inside. Using some of the instructions in the link above, it wouldn't be a tough job (maybe an hour or so, start to finish) and the clutch line is quick and easy to bleed as long as you have a helper.