Its not necessary if done correctly in my book. If you are making 700+whp and tear things down periodically, then why not.

 

70 ft-lb with arp moly assembly lube, or 85ft-lb with 30wt motor oil. this is righ out of the arp instrucitons, 65ft-lb with arp moly lube on aluminum

 

Are these torques in conflict with what the Mitsu Service manual says? If so, why not use the specs in the manual?

 

APR makes carbon fiber splitters.

ARP makes performance studs.

You DO NOT USE FACTORY TORQUE TO YIELD SPECS FOR STOCK BOLTS ON ARP STUDS AND NUTS.

 

Okay I didnt state APR or ARP... anyway, good to know.

 

Nah, the thread title OP did.

 

No problem, I would like to do a headstud upgrade on my car for the added insurance, especally as track a lot and would like to make the jump to e85 at some point. I have just about 10k miles. I know there is no definitive answer, but can I do the install 1x1 with minimal effort and a good likelihood of success? I have seen a few how tos and whatnot on here, but what exactly needs to be removed in order to get at the headstuds and are there any special tools needed? I have heard 1.5 hours to do this, is this realistic? Even though my car is relatively new, should I just go to AMS (near me)? how much should I expect to pay for the install of these studs? I am on the hedge of whether I want to attempt this or not...

 

All you have to do to get to the head studs is remove the valve cover.

 

[QUOTE=bboypuertoroc;6469141]All you have to do to get to the head studs is remove the valve cover.[/QUOTE

EDIT nevermind

 

subs

 

Yes, you can do the 1 for 1 removal replace. I've done it on my Eclipse a few times with no issues. Just be sure that you go back after about 50 miles and re-torque them.

 

jus the first 50 right, not every 50 miles lol

 

I wonder if any of the shops actually "step up" and tell customers to come back to their respective shops AFTER head studs are installed to have them "re torqued" at NO CHARGE. After 50-100 miles or so.

For some reason I seriously doubt it. Then most people go out, drive the **** out of their car and guess what? you blow a head gasket 10K later and wonder why?

I know other variables are indications of a blown head gasket, but I bet MANY are simply because the head studs were not re torqued after the intial install IMO.

 

You'll only forget to re-torque head studs one time Ask me how I know! But yes, you only need to re-torque them once - unless you remove the head, then I would suggest changing them altogether. ARP's (although some will disagree) do stretch and shouldn't be reused more than once.

 

for 22-24 psi on light bolt on evo 9 . is it a must head studs?? didn`t have them on my evo 5 with 21 psi and 30k miles with no problem