Does anyone know the actual torque spec for the head stud going into the block?....any information would be appreciated...Ive already done search but i didnt get a straght forward answer...

 

I'm fairly certain 85 ft/lbs is what everyone uses.

 

Now is that the actual head bolt or the stud itself going into the block?

 

you only tighten the stud finger tight with a allen wrench... and use the factory torque 2 step, and when installing use the factory seq. for tighting too.. its been awhile im sorry but i think its 65 and 85.. some go 90.. and they will have to be heat cycled.. 3-6 times...

 

Thanks for the reply...does it come with any instructions...it's on order by the way

 

yes, but there not great... pm malibujack, for the correct torgue readings... damn i have to another set in my new car, and i forget the torque no. too.. dammit.

 

According to ARP, 70ft lbs is the spec for a cast block w/ aluminum head. Instructions I believe say 75ft-lbs, use higher at your own risk. I have seen one break at 75ft-lbs!

 

I used the replace one at a time method. I used 70ft lbs per ARP spec and I run 25 lbs of boost and no problems here.


*I used 70ft lbs with the ARP moly lube.

 

Bump.

I have heard three different methods on torque on the head studs.

1) Per service manual. 58ft-lbs in order, loosen, 15ft-lbs in order, then 90* in order, and again 90* in order

2) 30ft-lbs in order, 60ft-lbs in order, and then 80ft-lbs in order with molly, or 85ft-lbs with 30w oil

3) Per ARP book. 30ft-lbs in order, 65ft-lbs in order. Repeat process 3 times. (loosen and tighten 3 times)

I'm somewhat confused, and rather PO'd that there are multiple different suggestions on how to do a "simple" task.

 

the torquing will be dependent on what fastener you use (ARP, stock, ect.), it's a function of the fastener mostly. Also, it will depend on what type of lube you are using, whether it's oil, molly, other. There are multiple right answers since there are multiple fasteners, but usually only one right answer for the combo you are installing.

If you go with ARP, go with the directions in the box.

 

I don't have those directions.

And yes, I have the ARP studs.

 

do 70ft-lb and 90 degree to stretch the bolt. We have install over 36 evos in our shop .

 

My box/instructions is packed away and would take me about an hour to get to, which I'd rather not do tonight......

But if I remember correctly, we have 11 mm studs, here's a link to ARP's proper web page for torque specs. It's 71#'s on ARP lube and 90#'s on 30w oil. Install the studs into the head with no more than 4 ft. lbs. of torque. Once those are installed, move on to the nuts. You should tighten slightly, up to 30 ft.-lbs. or so, and loosen 3 different times to de-bur any metal to metal contact between nut and stud, and distribute the lube evenly. Then you can move to final torquing to the values stated above.

This is all out the window if we don't have 11mm studs, but you can look up what we do have and go from there.

http://www.arp-bolts.com/Catalog/Catalog.html

oh, and you always start from the inside of the head and move to the outer edges. In other words, tighten the center studs down tight first, and then progressively move to the outer edges in a criss/cross pattern.

 

Studs not bolts.

 

So if I'm having ARP's installed at a shop along with cams etc, will I have to retorque them later on?