Powerflex motormount install w/o press
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Newbie
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 28
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From: 1/4 Mile,Hawaii
Powerflex motormount install w/o press
The install that my buddy and I did on my bottom Powerflex motormount had been acheived w/ some arm grease and w/o a press..
Materials:
1)Bottom Powerflex Mount bushing
2)Small chisel or flat head screw driver
3)Hammer
4)flat board of some sort 2x (We used two wood boards of the same size)
5)WD-40 or PB blaster
6)14mm socket
7)17mm socket
8)Wrench
9)Torque Wrench
10)Jack and 2x Jack stands
11)Philips head screw driver
12)Sand paper
13)Copper grease(provided w/ the Powerflex mount)
14)Torque ranch socket adaptor
Steps:
1)Jack both sides of the car using the jack and the jack stands to hold the front side of the car a float.
2)Underneath the front of the car are the plastic air dividers. Take off the air dividers using the philips head screwdriver to unscrew and pluck off the plastic screw inserts.
3)Ater removing the plasic dividers, you will be able to see the rubber motormount in the middle of the car. This picture is a pic of the frame w/ the powerflex motormount inserted in the position of the rubber bushing.
4)Use the 14mm socket to unbolt the bolt in the middle of the bushing.
5)There are 5 bolts holding up the frame bracket that the motormount is attached to, 2 in the front(17mm), 1 in the middle(14mm), 1 in the middle of the bushing (14mm), and 1 at the rear(17mm).
6)Remove the frame into an open area so that it is easier to unbolt the two bolts holding the motormount onto the frame.
7)After removing the two bolts from the motormount, place the motormount centered on the two boards leaving a gap in between the boards.
8)Use the chisel or flat head screw driver and place the end tip on the metal ring in between the housing of the motormount and the rubber bushing. You may spary WD-40 or PB blaster inbetween the housing and the bushing to loosen up the debris in the smaller air gaps making the job a little easier.
9)Use the hammer to hammer the chisel or flat head screw to open gaps in between the rubber bushing and the motormount housing. (Note: You may use the method in hammering in a circle or you may do it only on one side of the circle)
10)During the process of hammering the metal ring, you will notice that the bushing will be coming out of the other side of the motormount. Continue with the hammering.
11)After the metal ring is exposing enough gap between the motormount housing and the rubber bushing, the bushing should pop out. (Note: if you use the half circle method, the one half will pop out leaving the other half to be hammered with two or three strikes.)
The Bushing and ring should look somewhat of a star or half a star/circle depending on what method you used. Pic 1-Circle Method. Pic 2-Hlaf circle method.
12)Take the sand paper and use it to smooth the inside of the motormount housing to allow the powerflex mount to slide in easier.
13)Apply the copper grease onto both powerflex bushings on the thicker side of the bushing
14)After applying the copper grease, insert the bushings w/ the side containing the grease facing inward. You may need to use your foot to step on the bushing to make it easier if it doesnt budge. Insert the metal slide that was provided in the center of the bushings.
15)Now take the motormount and apply it back onto the frame using the two bolts that were on prior to taking off the motormount.
16)Do steps 4-6 in reverse.
17)After steps 4-6 are set, use the torque ranch to tighten the 14mm bolts with 49lbs, and the 12mm at 35-39lbs along with the motormount bolt.
18)Do steps 3-1 in reverse lowering the car w/ safety.
19)Now start your engine, go onto a empty road, and drive your fast like you've never driven it before
NOTE:Vibrations in the car such as the steering wheel and in the chasis, will be felt while driving the car and the Powerflex bushing freshly installed. This is normal. After breaking in the Powerflex bushing, you will notice minimal vibrations than before.
Materials:
1)Bottom Powerflex Mount bushing
2)Small chisel or flat head screw driver
3)Hammer
4)flat board of some sort 2x (We used two wood boards of the same size)
5)WD-40 or PB blaster
6)14mm socket
7)17mm socket
8)Wrench
9)Torque Wrench
10)Jack and 2x Jack stands
11)Philips head screw driver
12)Sand paper
13)Copper grease(provided w/ the Powerflex mount)
14)Torque ranch socket adaptor
Steps:
1)Jack both sides of the car using the jack and the jack stands to hold the front side of the car a float.
2)Underneath the front of the car are the plastic air dividers. Take off the air dividers using the philips head screwdriver to unscrew and pluck off the plastic screw inserts.
3)Ater removing the plasic dividers, you will be able to see the rubber motormount in the middle of the car. This picture is a pic of the frame w/ the powerflex motormount inserted in the position of the rubber bushing.
4)Use the 14mm socket to unbolt the bolt in the middle of the bushing.
5)There are 5 bolts holding up the frame bracket that the motormount is attached to, 2 in the front(17mm), 1 in the middle(14mm), 1 in the middle of the bushing (14mm), and 1 at the rear(17mm).
6)Remove the frame into an open area so that it is easier to unbolt the two bolts holding the motormount onto the frame.
7)After removing the two bolts from the motormount, place the motormount centered on the two boards leaving a gap in between the boards.
8)Use the chisel or flat head screw driver and place the end tip on the metal ring in between the housing of the motormount and the rubber bushing. You may spary WD-40 or PB blaster inbetween the housing and the bushing to loosen up the debris in the smaller air gaps making the job a little easier.
9)Use the hammer to hammer the chisel or flat head screw to open gaps in between the rubber bushing and the motormount housing. (Note: You may use the method in hammering in a circle or you may do it only on one side of the circle)
10)During the process of hammering the metal ring, you will notice that the bushing will be coming out of the other side of the motormount. Continue with the hammering.
11)After the metal ring is exposing enough gap between the motormount housing and the rubber bushing, the bushing should pop out. (Note: if you use the half circle method, the one half will pop out leaving the other half to be hammered with two or three strikes.)
The Bushing and ring should look somewhat of a star or half a star/circle depending on what method you used. Pic 1-Circle Method. Pic 2-Hlaf circle method.
12)Take the sand paper and use it to smooth the inside of the motormount housing to allow the powerflex mount to slide in easier.
13)Apply the copper grease onto both powerflex bushings on the thicker side of the bushing
14)After applying the copper grease, insert the bushings w/ the side containing the grease facing inward. You may need to use your foot to step on the bushing to make it easier if it doesnt budge. Insert the metal slide that was provided in the center of the bushings.
15)Now take the motormount and apply it back onto the frame using the two bolts that were on prior to taking off the motormount.
16)Do steps 4-6 in reverse.
17)After steps 4-6 are set, use the torque ranch to tighten the 14mm bolts with 49lbs, and the 12mm at 35-39lbs along with the motormount bolt.
18)Do steps 3-1 in reverse lowering the car w/ safety.
19)Now start your engine, go onto a empty road, and drive your fast like you've never driven it before
NOTE:Vibrations in the car such as the steering wheel and in the chasis, will be felt while driving the car and the Powerflex bushing freshly installed. This is normal. After breaking in the Powerflex bushing, you will notice minimal vibrations than before.
Originally Posted by Danny23
if you read this post how is the vibration now that i imagine you,ve put some miles on the car. where do you feel them ,how much(annoying) or what?
Definitly worth every penny.
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Originally Posted by MIevo8MR
I put in my powerflex motor mount a few months ago. The vibration is noticable but not annoying. Lets just say the girlfriend hasn't complained. She would be the first to mention something.
Definitly worth every penny.
Definitly worth every penny.
Newbie
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 45
Likes: 0
From: fullerton, ca
for getting the stock bushing out its much easier to just cut through it with a sawzall type saw... umm cut it down through the metal.. just becareful not to cut into the stock bracket... and then maybe hit it with a screwdriver a couple times and it should come out fairly easily
Newbie
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 34
Likes: 0
From: New Jersey
There is a much easier way of doing this without a press and without denting or chipping the bracket. On top of the bracket there is a white sticker; under the sticker is a round hole. Just use a round punch and hammer in the stock bushing and ring. You'll be collapsing one side creating a heart shaped bushing. The bushing will slide right out with no effort at all.
There is a much easier way of doing this without a press and without denting or chipping the bracket. On top of the bracket there is a white sticker; under the sticker is a round hole. Just use a round punch and hammer in the stock bushing and ring. You'll be collapsing one side creating a heart shaped bushing. The bushing will slide right out with no effort at all.
Does this work for the side mounts too? I remember seeing this hole when I did my front mount but thought nothing of it. I'm going to do my sides next weekend and this will totally save time.
Newbie
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 34
Likes: 0
From: New Jersey
Not sure. I have only done the front mount. I would imagine as long as you can see the bushing through the hole, go for it! 
(If the sides have holes like the front, that is) Let me know how it goes.
(If the sides have holes like the front, that is) Let me know how it goes.
Last edited by Dubius; Aug 26, 2007 at 11:21 PM.
I checked on the tranny mount I bought from TTP and sure enough, it has a nice hole on the bottom.. big enough to put a large punch through and knock the stockers right out! I'm assuming the passenger side mount has a similar hole. I'm installing it this week or this weekend so I'll let ya know how it goes.
for getting the stock bushing out its much easier to just cut through it with a sawzall type saw... umm cut it down through the metal.. just becareful not to cut into the stock bracket... and then maybe hit it with a screwdriver a couple times and it should come out fairly easily