I can email you the whole pages it you want. Someone from here was supposed to host it on another site too. Just PM me an email address.

The whole thing can be done without ANY mitsu tools. they make it easier but they are not required. The auto tensioner can just be a piece of threaded rod. the others we didn't have. You just have to get a bit creative. The hardest part was putting the nut back in the block that covers the oil pump locking hole where you put the screw driver. That was rough. It is a tight spot.

 

Thanks a ton for posting the PDFs. First time I did the tbelt on the EVO after it jumped (long story) I had a hard timing figuring out where the hell the cam marks are supposed to line up. Much easier with the valve cover on The PDFs saved the day. To add to some previously made points...

To avoid having to *** around with the screwdriver hole thing to make sure the rear balance shaft is in phase, put the timing mark on the oil pump sprocket at 12 oclock. If it rotates toward the mark on the case, it's in phase. If it rotates away from the mark, turn it one full turn. This is an old DSM trick that works on the EVO too.

No need for the threaded rod for a full tbelt job. Remove the tensioner, compress it in a vice, and use a grenade pin or drill bit to hold it, then install. The tool that goes between the gears was never really necessary on the DSMs, but on the EVOs it would be extremely helpful since both cams really want to rotate away from the mark. Alternatively however, you can get a friend (or get creative with zipties) to hold two wrenches on the cam gear bolts to hold them aligned. This provides enough slack in the belt to get the belt around the tensioner pulley.

It's also worth noting that if you are just changing the belt and nothing else (low mileage change only, like the one I just did at 20k miles after the belt got damaged), there will most likely be no need to reset the tension/gap. In my case the gap was ***** on spec with the new belt, as it should be. If you need to change the pulley you have no choice.

It's not a bad job at all, expecially after you've done a ton of them. Much easier than it is on DSMs too. I swapped my belt in a little over an hour from jack up to jack down. It can certainly be a bit intimidating though...

 

Those are some good tips. We found that the timing belt tension er can be compressed with a large C-Clamp too. We used a piece of a clothes hanger (cut with tip snips). It was plenty strong to hold the ram back too. A small allen wrench can work wonders as well, it just seemed like the clearance might have been an issue from the fender well. The threaded rod is not needed when actually removing the belt. You are right. It does take some of the load off the ram and makes the removal of the tension a little easier IMHO.


"To avoid having to *** around with the screwdriver hole thing to make sure the rear balance shaft is in phase, put the timing mark on the oil pump sprocket at 12 oclock. If it rotates toward the mark on the case, it's in phase. If it rotates away from the mark, turn it one full turn. This is an old DSM trick that works on the EVO too. "
--- I am not and old DSM guy so that is news to me. I have to admit I don't understand the physics of how something on the same belt can rotate two different directions is in or out of phase. So, I am glad I did the screwdriver trick. No w, I have to admit too that the screw driver was one of the biggest pain in the 4SS parts of the belt change. IT SUX trying to get the bolt back in the hole and started. That took an hour with two of us taking turn trying because of the frustration. LOL.


I hope all this helps some more people out that are brave enough to try this too.

I still HIGHLY recommend getting this done at a shop if you are not a mechanic or VERY VERY VERY mechanically inclined. This was much harder than a cam swap and a hot side swap. Mainly due to clearances and the alignment of all the components.

GOOD LUCK!

 

It does seem odd, but if you've ever taken apart the oil pump or assembled a new one, it becomes a little more clear. The rear bshaft turns at half the speed of the oil pump sprocket. So for two turns of the oil pump sprocket, the bshaft turns once. The bshafts spin pretty damn fast, I'll feel better when I remove them when I stroke the motor eventually.

I do agree that most poeple should have this job done by professionals. But I can honestly say that even mitsu techs don't understand the tbelt system on these cars, and I don't trust them. I usually recomend people have a knowledgable DSMer help them out the first time, so they can do it on their own later on, but not everyone has as good a local club as some of us have.

 

Nice

 

now why exactly do you have to break the crank bolt loose?

 

On pg 5 can you draw exactly where the hole is to put in the screwdriver, I see at least 2 14 mm bolts up there, not sure which one im looking for.

 

is this job much more difficult than tbelt and water pump on a B series engine? because i've done it on my teg and it was easy, just lots of removal of parts around the tbelt in a small space, so it took a while.

 

Look at post #4, attachement EVO Manual Page 8a. that is the drawing right from the manual.

To help... If you are looking from the front bumper, there are two holes where the o2 pipe support bracket bolts to the block. The bolt you are looking for it up near the top of the two o2 bolts on the right about 4 inches over. Yes, it is that one way up in there. it is a pain in the butt to get off and get back on.

 

Thanks Guys, I was able to get my belt back on and everything running perfectly with this write-up. It took me 11 hours total by myself, with about an hours worth of help from my Dad holding the cams in place to put the belt on, that is impossible to do by yourself. Not bad for the first time ever doing something like this.

 

Camshaft belt or as referred to timing belt change is a simple job but it requires time. Once the job is done a check and recheck is necessary and again another recheck. I have done it on few BMWs and a Passat which are way more complicated with not one single problem.

Half of the job is to check and recheck and once you think you are done with checking its time to recheck again.

 

looks the same as earlier 4g63's in dsms.

 

im about to do this well doing my head gasket figure its all out might as well having the head pulled will make a bit easier correct?

 

Im planning on doing this soon as my car is at 57,000 miles. Im going to take a look at the HOW TO here. I had a 1990 AWD DSM so hopefully its similar.

On another note Id like to ask some people what they think about the parts I need.

I know I will definitely need:

Timing Belt
Balance Shaft Belt
Hydraulic Tensioner

Do I need to replace these???

TB Tensioner Pulley
TB Idler Pulley
BS Tensioner Pulley

 

Thank you Volunteer and Cajun Power, this is a great DIY write up...