How To: In-Car Valve Spring and Retainer Install
Nov 9, 2009, 04:29 PM
#61
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ok i'm ordering that tool from Euro Export, Any other pointeres, tips, words of advice, this will be the first time tearing me engine apart, but I have read the DIY and watched the video several times, and I feel confident and I can take my time since I will have all winter!
Nov 16, 2009, 07:38 PM
#62
I did it in under two hours with the head ON. I saved the hassle and cost of removing the head. Not to mention I cant have a head on and off in an hour and twenty mins. If I already had the head off I would much rather do it then, but sometimes removing the head just isn't the best option.
To the person that had the timing jump, if you would have read in the thread I as well as a few others said to leave it in gear with the e brake on. Lesson learned but it sucks. I only knew because someone I know told me that his jumped when it wasnt in gear.
Edit: I think that tool would work with the head on, just remember to pressurize the cylinder.
To the person that had the timing jump, if you would have read in the thread I as well as a few others said to leave it in gear with the e brake on. Lesson learned but it sucks. I only knew because someone I know told me that his jumped when it wasnt in gear.
Edit: I think that tool would work with the head on, just remember to pressurize the cylinder.
Feb 28, 2010, 10:29 AM
#63
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I Got my cams out and just about to start the springs/retainers/seats/seals install, I found this link which is not for our engine but has a lot of useful info and images, I just wanted to share it on this thread.
http://www.team-integra.net/forum/di...g+Common+Topic
http://www.team-integra.net/forum/di...g+Common+Topic
Mar 5, 2010, 01:22 PM
#65
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OK I finally finished installed the new springs and retainers. I used the compressed air method, it worked great, crank didn't move or anything. Those who the crank moved, did you have all your spark plugs out? that is probably why because the engine moves really easily with no plugs. I kept all plugs in, except the one where the air compress was hooked up to, and it worked fine.
Mar 5, 2010, 02:07 PM
#66
OK I finally finished installed the new springs and retainers. I used the compressed air method, it worked great, crank didn't move or anything. Those who the crank moved, did you have all your spark plugs out? that is probably why because the engine moves really easily with no plugs. I kept all plugs in, except the one where the air compress was hooked up to, and it worked fine.
Mar 9, 2010, 05:44 AM
#67
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I just used the Euro Export tool and it works awesome!
I didn't use compressed air or rope or any of that method. I just rotated the cylinder to top dead center then compressed the springs. The valve drops slightly but rests on the piston and you have plenty of room to remove the Keepers and re-install them!
Couldn't be happier with how easy that tool is to use. Took about an hour of me carefully learning how to remove/install the keepers and not dropping them.
-Trevor
I didn't use compressed air or rope or any of that method. I just rotated the cylinder to top dead center then compressed the springs. The valve drops slightly but rests on the piston and you have plenty of room to remove the Keepers and re-install them!
Couldn't be happier with how easy that tool is to use. Took about an hour of me carefully learning how to remove/install the keepers and not dropping them.
-Trevor
Mar 9, 2010, 07:40 AM
#68
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wanted to add to this thread a neat little tool i found, does it look like it will work? if it does it looks like it would save a huge amount of time...
http://toyotool.com/?gclid=CO_mgeD5xpcCFQ0xawod01d-TA
http://toyotool.com/?gclid=CO_mgeD5xpcCFQ0xawod01d-TA
Mar 28, 2010, 05:35 PM
#71
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No good. It's too big to fit in to the tight spaces on a dual overhead cam head like the Evo's. Only works on a pushrod type motor with lots of room around the valve springs to get the tool in there. -Adam
Apr 26, 2010, 04:03 PM
#73
OK I finally finished installed the new springs and retainers. I used the compressed air method, it worked great, crank didn't move or anything. Those who the crank moved, did you have all your spark plugs out? that is probably why because the engine moves really easily with no plugs. I kept all plugs in, except the one where the air compress was hooked up to, and it worked fine.
THIS IS A MAJOR HEADS UP !!!! Very good call on that.
Makes total sense to me. I probably would have pulled them all in advance.
Jun 14, 2010, 09:53 AM
#74
I just used the Euro Export tool and it works awesome!
I didn't use compressed air or rope or any of that method. I just rotated the cylinder to top dead center then compressed the springs. The valve drops slightly but rests on the piston and you have plenty of room to remove the Keepers and re-install them!
Couldn't be happier with how easy that tool is to use. Took about an hour of me carefully learning how to remove/install the keepers and not dropping them.
-Trevor
I didn't use compressed air or rope or any of that method. I just rotated the cylinder to top dead center then compressed the springs. The valve drops slightly but rests on the piston and you have plenty of room to remove the Keepers and re-install them!
Couldn't be happier with how easy that tool is to use. Took about an hour of me carefully learning how to remove/install the keepers and not dropping them.
-Trevor
Last edited by LV///R; Jun 15, 2010 at 10:19 PM.
Nov 15, 2010, 11:23 AM
#75
Used urosport tool, few personal notes:
To keep engine from turning under psi, place in neutral with crank at about 10 BTDC. Place in 3rd gear and manually rotate until crank doesn't rotate anymore with about 1 ATDC as goal. Might have to start over to get it spot on, but with crank a hair late of TDC, and without tranny slack in 3rd with brake on it wont turn.
Also,
This will only be needed on cyl 1 & 4. 2 & 3 of course at BDC.
Never rotate engine backwards more than 45 degrees.
Seals on an older car can really **** you off.
To keep engine from turning under psi, place in neutral with crank at about 10 BTDC. Place in 3rd gear and manually rotate until crank doesn't rotate anymore with about 1 ATDC as goal. Might have to start over to get it spot on, but with crank a hair late of TDC, and without tranny slack in 3rd with brake on it wont turn.
Also,
This will only be needed on cyl 1 & 4. 2 & 3 of course at BDC.
Never rotate engine backwards more than 45 degrees.
Seals on an older car can really **** you off.