Ok the reason i used red loctite is two reasons:

1. Red loctite holds up under extreme heat and pressure so you dont have to worry about it coming loose.

2. I used loctite because it also acts lick a thread sealer. that way you dont have any boost leaks through the threads.

No i suppose you could have used blue loctite and not red but I am one of those people that think " I would rather be safe than sorry."


Also i have come across many people that have this same problem but they deal with it. I made this write up because in my opinion this works just as well as getting a nipple welded on. I tested my system yesterday for boost leaks. I have NO boost leaks and ieven tested it to 27psi. Now I test my system every other month in the winter and 1 to 2 times a month in the summer. I test it everytime before i go to the track. I know it is a little excessive to test it that much but like i said " I would rather be safe than sorry"

I didnt realize how many people were going to write in about how i should have welded it but it is working great so far. If something happens were it starts to leak or something happens i will write in to tell you all but i cant see anything bad happens. i have tapped air lines before with barb fittings, and have done alot of piping (auto and Home) and i cant see any problems occuring.

 

ya and if it leaks just drill a bigger hole and weld a bung in not to hard........

 

So this will fix the problem? I was talking about doing this last summer and people said it wouldnt make a difference and just adjust my BOV. But I have the APS and have never read of anyone needing to adjust that BOV. It is nice to see someone added the nipple and it works. And the comments from Forge make me feel even better.

 

I might use something similar to this as a temporary fix until I take my LICP off and have a friend weld a nice nip on there.

http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/me...egory_Code=BCS

 

Wow thats a even better less invasive way to do it! I may have to try that first.....

 

I think that is a good idea to go through the rubber coupler BUT there is two things

1. I would be afraid of it leaking boost cuz rubber is hard to seal against

2. you couldnt do it next to the turbo because the outlet pipe bolts on. there isnt a rubber coupler between the turbo and outlet pipe.

 

I talked to ATP they said as long as its installed properly its fine.

 

True but here are my thoughts.

1. This is a temp fix so I dont care if it is right up to the turbo. At least I can get it closer than the current set up with the BOV line!

2. If that thing clamps down hard enough it will seal to the rubber coupler. I mean you do clamp down couplers to metal pipes right?

3. I am going to use one of these and put it in the coupler between my LICP and FMIC. That way it is still part of the LICP without drilling or needing a coupler from the turbo outlet to the LICP as you said.

Then when I upgrade turbos I will make sure I have a nipple on my new LICP. One thing I really want to know is why Buschur Racing doesnt put nipples on their pipes? They know their stuff and swear by the BOV line method. If that truly causes the flutter as Forge Motorsports says then why does Dave do this?

Also, my buddy Kevin rerouted his lines to do this and said it works perfect now. no more flutter. Can't wait to do it myself when the car comes out.

 

I tried an experiment, I have my boost controller t'ed from the same line that originally went directly to the BOV as I have a Buschur LICP with no nipple.

I just disconnected the boost controller line and connected my BOV directly to its intake source as it is in the stock position. This means there is no pressure source going to the wastegate, which is dangerous as it won't dump any boost and I could destroy the engine. However, as long as I don't use maximum boost, this should let me test to see if the BOV still fluttered in partial throttle / low boost conditions.

Unfortunately, the low boost flutter was exactly the same in this configuration, which means adding a nipple to the LICP just for the MBC would have no effect at all on this flutter in low boost situations. It was a nice idea, but as a few people had said, if this really solved this problem, people like Buschur would weld a nipple to their own LICP's. I reconnected the boost controller line again after this experiement, but it was a quick way of seeing if this would actually fix the problem.

This seems like a major issue with modified EVO's, it's a shame no-one has a good solution yet, I wonder how other turbo cars manage to avoid it?

Andy

 

^^^ I disagree (at least in my situation) I have a ATP GT3076R kit when I bought the car also with a greddy e-o1 ebc. I wanted something more simple so I went w a forge UNOS MBC taking off the EBC and I had a Forge RS BOV already.

The EBC initally was teed off the BOV line but being a EBC with its solinoid it was able to hold the WG closed as needed. When I installed the MBC I ran it from the same tee according to Al from dynoflash. I began to have sever fluttering and bucking at ANYTHING other then WOT. I adjusted the FORGE RS BOV in every position imaginable over months. Also I belive when the WG opend it also actuated the BOV making me lose power. I asked alot of people about this and no one seemed to have any idea what I was talking about then I came across this thread, bought a quick tap and presto the car is great! I can actually hold the car a 5psi while merging onto the freeway now! CRAZY! The WG dosent open till my set pressure (external so I can tell) I also figured out that my UNOS MBC was clogged with gunk and needed lubing according to another thread I found so I killed two birds.

So moral if you have a turbo besides stock I would put a nipple on the LICP or a quick tap I guess it also depends on brands of parts too I guess.

 

Well I am going to try to do this anyway as I think it will work. All I know is when the car had the stock licp and fmic and boost was sourced from the licp then the car did not have this fluttering problem at all with the APS BOV. I throw on a MBC and licp and change my boost source and I have the problem bad at partial throttle. I will also say that I did run the car with the BOV and no MBC ast Tapeworm did here in an attempt to trouble shoot what was later found to be a seized MBC and did not have the problem at all. I somewhat agree with Taperworm in that you would think companies like Buschur would have nipples on their licps but then I also think that companies like Forge and Mitsubishi themselves say or do have their set up off the licp. That and it would be harder for companies to weld those little things on all the time and it would increase cost. Also, most aftermarket turbos have a nipple right on the compressor housing. Their are reasons for this. I think one is the fact you dont have to worry about boost leaks prior to your MBC boost source. That is a good reason in itself. The second could be the slight pressure drop you would have across your system prior to MBC source. And the final I believe is a way to source boost for your controller independent of air that goes through your MBC.

Either way I am going to do this and it better work.

 

instead of loctite.. why not use jbweld? it'll handle the heat .

 

Agreed. This is what I would do if I didnt have access to so many welders where I work.

 

I solved my part throttle flutter by installing a spring in the Tial BOV thats strong enough to stay closed under part throttle.

 

I just did this to my car, works great, i got lucky and found a small fitting that worked with the small factory hose. no problems. I just need some t bolt clamps so the pipe fianly stops blowing off the throttle body.
thank
Later
DJ