Visit the link below for the install.
http://www.jonesland.com/evo/index.htm

Cheers

 

why not just disconnect two lines that go to factory solenoid
and install boost controler to these two lines
far more simple
madrid

 

Not sure of any adverse effects with that setup. But doing it the way I did is far more simple on the amount of lines and connections. The fewer the connections/parts, the better. Plus, I have never seen it done this way on any car. Any one have any insight on this?

 

Most aftermarket boost controllers have you remove the existing hoses from the Actuator, and the scroll housing (Turbo housing), some installs recommend using a vacuum/boost source other than that housing, and capping off that connection.. Others aren't specific about it and you can use that connection... I think it depends on what kind of controller your using, if it has a checkball failsafe, it doesnt matter because residual pressure would bleed off into the atmosphere if boost were suddenly cut..

I have it installed that way (disconnecting the hoses to the Actuator and scroll housing), except I had to remove the hoses and use longer ones to my MBC, I've had no high EGT's nor boost spiking due to the short/immediate boost signal.. Its by far the easiest way to install it.


There are generally two classes of boost controllers (Whether manual or electronic) and they are restriction based, and bleedoff based.. on the Evolution, and many others, the stock boost controller uses a regulated bleed off, it has some disadvantages and its possible to overboost under some circumstances because the boost levels build faster than they can be bled off..

Most aftermarket (Hallman Manual, Apexi S-AVC) boost controllers act as a regulator (aka a restriction) so no matter how much pressure builds on one side, what comes out will always peak at the same amount, within reason that is, and the remaining pressure is either blown off through a 'weep hole' or it just remains on the input side of the controller... The ones that have check valves, weep holes, or whatnot are an extra margin of safety just in case someone lets off the gas, and the sgirt period of time that there is still pressure in the valve (and input hose) could keep the wastegate open under a low pressure condition which could cause reversion, stumbling or bucking, even though their BOV is working correctly..

Hope this info is useful..

 

This was the "Old way" some DSM guys used to regulate their boost pressure, I think they called it the old "Aquarium Tank Valve" mod.. Its not the optimum way to do this because of the nature of bleedoff type boost control.. It is a very simple thing, but I can see at the boost levels we deal with, that you could end up with serious overboost conditions under some circumstances.

Let me add that this is not a good thing for a manual boost controller.. But with a solenoid based boost controller, since the computer regulates the boost pressure, the solenoid would bleed off more pressure if there was a possibility of overboost.. This is actually the possible reason that mitsubishi chose to taper boost off at higher rpm, because boost spiking and levels could vary enough that holding the pressure could cause overboost in this configuration under high engine loads..

 

awesome how-to chris! i just did it last nite. i try installing my BR MBC from the top but found out it was a lot easier accessing all the hoses from underneath the car. the boost comes on real fast and doesn't taper off compare to the factory one. how about a how-to on apexi s-afc

 

You'd be amazed how easy the S-AFC actually was to do.. I wish I had documented my install..

 

dude, did anyone else have a hard time reaching down there?

 

i did.....and still cant fit my hands down there to get to it....guess ill try from the bottom

 

Just remove the intake tubing from the turbo and you will have plenty of room.

 

ok, here's what I did. just want someone with a little more experience to ok this. I dissconnect the line coming from the turbo hosing. I also disconnected the hose coming for the wastegate actuator. I then ran a new line from the turbo to the Hallman MBC input and the ran the output straight to the wastegate actuator. then I caped off the intake tube. I disconnect the factory boost controller. should I live it connected and just cap the ends on it or is it ok to live it disconnected. thanks for any help.

ps. I am currently holding 19.5psi and haveing a little bit of taper down to about 18.5-19 at redline.

-Chad-

 

I installed mine last night utilizing the boost control sylenoid- but I did removed all the brass restrictors and replaced the vacuum lines.

I'm unable to get passed 13 psi with a spike of 15. The MBC just doesn't seem to work- and it has before on a different car. Do you think if I install it the right way (in the tutorial above) that I will be able to raise the boost like any normal MBC would?

 

Probably needs a stiffer spring. I helped a guy install 2 different Hallmans and neither one would boost past 16psi. We put in a generic mbc and that puppy jumped right up to 21 psi. We were told that the spring was to weak those particular Hallmans.

On a side note, I never had a problem with my Hallman Pro boosting 21+ psi.

 

Can someone post up a picture of the stock boost solenoid and where it is located on the car.

thnks

 

Can any point me in the direction of the how-to installation on a hallman MBC. As stated above, pictures would be good.

Thanks in advance!!