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05 clutch install, alternative method, makes it trivial

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Old Jun 7, 2007, 09:19 AM
  #16  
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by boot i mean the plastic thing over the stering nuckle that houses the 10mm bolt that is loosened to remove the steering input shaft
Old Jun 7, 2007, 11:25 AM
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I told KOM88 how to do this in a PM but to put the info out for everyone I will post here. It is pretty simple, there is no need to remove the hard plastic boot that is in the engine bay. I simply removed the black plastic cover that is under the steering wheel, the steering shaft goes through this cover, all you do is simply pull it off. Then there is a 10mm bolt that can be removed from inside the car as well. it is best to remove this bolt with the subframe still completly bolted in so that the bolt is as high as possible.
Old Jun 7, 2007, 11:43 AM
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I am going to make a post to try and make this a more formal how to, I will get some pictures when I get home later.

I am doing this from memory right now so I may need to correct this later. Also I am not sure if this is the best way to do it or not, it is simply how I did it.

Tools
17mm Socket
14mm Socket
6" Socket Extension
10mm Wrench
14mm Wrench
Pliers
Ball Joint Tool or Rubber Mallet

Step 1:
Remove 10mm bolt at the bottom of the steering shaft. Behind the gas petal, you will see where the steering shaft goes into the engine bay; there is a black plastic cover that surrounds the shaft. Remove this cover by just pulling up on it.
Now you will be able to remove the 10mm nut holding the shaft to the universal joint, with this nut remove you can slide the steering column up towards the steering wheel, you will need to use pliers to loosen the clamp that is higher up on the steering shaft in order to slide it up. By sliding it up towards the steering wheel it will come off of the shaft that goes into the sub frame.

Step 2:
There are two lines that need to be removed. The first is a power steering line; remove the bolt on top of the power steering pump. Now you can pull the line off the pump, be sure not to loose the washer. The power steering line is also held on by a bracket near the motor mount, remove this bracket as well.
There is also a coolant line that I removed, it is back near the strut tower, the rubber line connects to a hard line, at this connection I removed the rubber line. There is also a bracket that holds the rubber line on, remove this bracket as well.

Step 3:
Remove the steering links from the knuckle. There are ball joints on the end of the steering links, these ball joints are then bolted into the knuckle. First unbolt the nut on the ball joint. Personally I used a ball joint tool which looks like a big fork to pry the ball joint out of the knuckle. However, others have said they just used a mallet to hit the top of the ball joint and it came out. I was not so lucky.

Step 4:
You also need to remove the ball joint on the lower control arm from the knuckle, this is covered in all transmission install documents anyway so I will assume you have already done this. The sway bars should also be unbolted from the lower control arms by this point also.

Step 5:
There are now 6 bolts holding up the subframe. At the back of the subframe there is a 12mm bolt on each side, remove these.

Step 6:
Now use the 17mm socket to loosen the remaining two bolts and two nuts that are holding up the subframe. Position a jack or a friend under one side of the subframe and then undo the bolts on one side allowing the subframe to rest on the jack. Then I unbolt the last two bolts on the other side and support the subframe while we lower it to the ground.

That’s it. Re-install is just a reversal of these steps. Please let me know if I mad any errors in this guide or if there is an easier way to do any of these steps.
Old Jun 7, 2007, 07:00 PM
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you don't have to bleed the power steering system or anything? just hook the lines back up and top off?
Old Jun 8, 2007, 05:50 AM
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I have not finished with my car yet so I can not say from experiance, but I have been told that you do not need to bleed it, you just refill the system and turn the steering wheel a couple times with the car stopped and that will do the bleeding for you.
Old Jun 10, 2007, 05:31 PM
  #21  
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Yeah, no bleeding is required.
Glad this approach is seeing some use.
Old Jun 10, 2007, 07:56 PM
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where's the pics?
Old Jun 13, 2007, 03:08 PM
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+1 for dropping the subframe, its really not as much work as it may look like. it also gives you a great opportunity to change the front swaybar or any bushings that would normally be difficult to get to
Old Jun 15, 2007, 11:37 AM
  #24  
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I did the clutch in my MR this way and it was so great to see all of that room. The trans slid right out and back in with no problems at all.
Old Jun 25, 2007, 06:38 PM
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Where's the pics?
Old Jun 25, 2007, 09:42 PM
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Originally Posted by WavMixer
Where's the pics?




Old Jun 26, 2007, 06:01 AM
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hey sorry I forgot about the pics, I will get some tonight.
Old Jul 3, 2007, 07:52 PM
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ok cool, so drop the subframe with the rack and swaybar? thanks im right at this point in the install.
Old Jul 14, 2007, 01:25 AM
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a few pics
Attached Thumbnails 05 clutch install, alternative method, makes it trivial-c3d.jpg  
Old Jul 14, 2007, 01:26 AM
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lots of room
Attached Thumbnails 05 clutch install, alternative method, makes it trivial-c4d.jpg  


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