I tried every tool known to man and was never really able to tighten the last bolt (the wedged one) any tighter than hand plus 1/2 turn. This is with the MAP integrated dump/downpipe though. It maybe different with other setups. I have been running it now for several months with no problems. The dump is absolutely sick too.

 

subscribed

 

i took the turbo out. to do this, i think thats an easier way. little over an hour of work

 

Great write up will be using in a few min. Also wouldn't it be easier just to remove the spark plug cover, and disconnect the o2 instead of counting the rotations? Your way works too but I tend to get over excited and usually forget little details like that

 

I'm so happy to hear that because mine just came in yesterday that I couldn't wait anymore and have to install it today

 

I'm going the same exact route I think it will be a lot easier to remove the turbo instead of trying to fit wrenches into tight places

 

Did this job yesterday with the MAPerformance o2 housing. How is the downpipe supposed to look seated up against the o2 housing? I couldn't remember how it looked before I took it off. Now it has 1/2" gap between them. Is this right? Anyone have any pics? I'm just worried about having a leak there. How can I tell if I have a leak?

 

well i stripped on of the BP bolts that you have to get flat head into to reach......
any suggestions on taking this thing out?

 

i couldnt get a wrench up in there so i removed the turbo after getting 3 of the bolts out. there was no way i was going to get the o2 sensor out with the turbo in the car. helps if you have a curb drain near you to hold the o2 housing haha

 

good write-up. Definitely if you dont have time for PB blaster to work its magic a hand held propane blowtorch is your friend.

 

How were you guys able to get that last bolt (wedged one) closest to turbo? I've been using a gear wrench, but don't have enough room to get leverage. I even used an extension and still nothing.

 

I will be putting on the Nvidia o2 Housing on this weekend and will be using the how-to. Hopefully I dont run into alot of issues but I think I will be taking out the turbo as well since previous replies said that it helped with the bolt. Thanks for the great write up!

 

Installed a MAP Rev 2 recirculating housing over the weekend. What a *****!

Car had 74k miles on it, the o2 sensor was seized in the housing. Two of the heat shield bolts were also seized and broke.

This youtube video helped, however it has too many short cuts:


NOTE: Unplug the negative terminal because you are going to have a wrench very close to the starter. My wrench kissed the starter briefly and it scared the crap out of me.

The header bolts came off easily with PB plaster. Even with the DP off there was no way getting the header off without removing the coolant and oil feed line from the head. Anyone who tells you otherwise is bending the oil feed or return line. There is some play but not enough to remove it safely.

It cannot be done in an hour unless you already have an aftermarket housing, downpipe, and oem heat shields removed/replaced.

This was definitely a weekend project, add in the fact that the original donut gasket was shot. The new one needed to be dremel'd plus the stock o2 sensor stripped out, I did everything over the course of a day and a half taking my time (stop and starting at my leisure).

A new Denso 02 sensor from advance auto was $70 with a $10 rebate and 1-year warranty. Plug and play. The new donut gasket was $20. What MAP doesn't tell you is the stock donut is 2.50" Inner Diameter, the housing is probably a 2.65" ID. You will need to shave it, I dont advise smashing it with a 2x4 as some people in other threads suggested.

Plug every orifice with shop towels so that you don't drop bolts or nuts in the turbo, head, or lower IC pipe.

I had a problem with loosing bolts due to the damn starter. Its essentially a huge magnet so anytime i dropped something is was stuck in between the starter and its heat shield.

Because I had to remove the manifold to make my life easier I replaced it with a ported and coated unit.

Note that once everything goes back together you can start the car backup as normal. No need to prime the turbo with coolant or oil unless you sustained heavy leaking. The turbo will smoke like crazy from soaking in PB and mild coolant leak but do not be alarmed. It will burn off.

I made 2 trips to the parts store mid-install. Thankfully this is not my DD and I had a second car to do so.

This is my $.02 and I hope it helps some people.

 

ty