HOW TO: Bleed Your Lifters
Apr 19, 2012, 10:10 PM
#62
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Hello
I recently purchased 03 evoluton 8, the lifters were ticking loud i took it to mechanic he replaced the lifters with new ones but it still was ticking not as loud but still ticking he told me he thought one was still flat but it still sounded like all of them someone told me...not only that but it bogs down ...would that be because of the lifters?
so i got it to the house, took the valve cover off and searched about bleeding them
so far i took all the latches of the lifters off and i got 12 of the 16 lifters out my problem is i cannot get 4 of the lifters out because the cam is in the way so what would i go about doing? also any tips/advice on this and the bog down would be great.
I recently purchased 03 evoluton 8, the lifters were ticking loud i took it to mechanic he replaced the lifters with new ones but it still was ticking not as loud but still ticking he told me he thought one was still flat but it still sounded like all of them someone told me...not only that but it bogs down ...would that be because of the lifters?
so i got it to the house, took the valve cover off and searched about bleeding them
so far i took all the latches of the lifters off and i got 12 of the 16 lifters out my problem is i cannot get 4 of the lifters out because the cam is in the way so what would i go about doing? also any tips/advice on this and the bog down would be great.
Oct 7, 2013, 08:52 PM
#68
I mean there are "ghetto" ways to do it. All you have to do is remove the rockers and then you will be able to get to the lifters without removing the cams. If you're interested I can explain more thoroughly on how a friend of mine has done it.
Also if you have ticking lifters you may not be able to just bleed them. If they're ticking the internal seal in the lifter may have collapsed on it's self and will not be able to hold pressure. Which is a reason why they tick. Once that seal is broken though you will need to replace the lifter.
Also if you have ticking lifters you may not be able to just bleed them. If they're ticking the internal seal in the lifter may have collapsed on it's self and will not be able to hold pressure. Which is a reason why they tick. Once that seal is broken though you will need to replace the lifter.
Dec 12, 2015, 08:38 PM
#71
Dec 4, 2017, 07:07 AM
#72
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Ever heard of tranny fluid?
The following statement will sound like I am an idiot, I assure you I am not.....
My 2000 had a sticky lifter and after consulting several sources and speaking with several mechanics I went back to my original choice I got from my #1 mechanic.... He suggested I drain the oil and run tranny fluid in it instead. My initial response was, okay.... Then call you to tow it to your shop and Rob me? He just laughed and reassured me it'd be fine. So I tried it.... worked like a dream! I added the tranny fluid after eliminating the old oil and using the same old oil filter I drove it for about 30 miles and went and did an oil change. All the corrosion came out and I was back in business!
My 2000 had a sticky lifter and after consulting several sources and speaking with several mechanics I went back to my original choice I got from my #1 mechanic.... He suggested I drain the oil and run tranny fluid in it instead. My initial response was, okay.... Then call you to tow it to your shop and Rob me? He just laughed and reassured me it'd be fine. So I tried it.... worked like a dream! I added the tranny fluid after eliminating the old oil and using the same old oil filter I drove it for about 30 miles and went and did an oil change. All the corrosion came out and I was back in business!
Sep 10, 2019, 01:21 AM
#73
After hours of research I still can’t find a certain answer if the lifters should be SOFT or HARD before installing back onto the head. It seems like it’s 50/50 going by the videos I’ve been watching on YouTube and even on other car forums including this one.
Oct 2, 2019, 10:10 AM
#74
I guess it depends on whose definition of "certain" makes you feel good. The factory service manual wants them installed hard, filled with diesel. Many people have had luck installing them empty/soft. I've been down the same road as you. I'm inclined to trust the FSM / manufacturer in nearly all cases, but the counterpoint is that just because it's Mitsubishi doesn't mean they are always right, or that there isn't another way to do something. Let us know what you choose and how it goes.
FWIW, I did follow the procedure outlined in the FSM. No problems.
FWIW, I did follow the procedure outlined in the FSM. No problems.
Oct 2, 2019, 10:24 AM
#75
I guess it depends on whose definition of "certain" makes you feel good. The factory service manual wants them installed hard, filled with diesel. Many people have had luck installing them empty/soft. I've been down the same road as you. I'm inclined to trust the FSM / manufacturer in nearly all cases, but the counterpoint is that just because it's Mitsubishi doesn't mean they are always right, or that there isn't another way to do something. Let us know what you choose and how it goes.
FWIW, I did follow the procedure outlined in the FSM. No problems.
FWIW, I did follow the procedure outlined in the FSM. No problems.
They do both work ways, but I just can't shake the thought of having diesel fuel in my oil. I've always installed my lifters empty because there is an oil feed hole in each small cylinder that the lifters sit in that fills them up with oil from the bottom up once oil pressure is generated. I feel like this helps to push out the air and eliminates any issues with a lifter standing too tall. it could be that the diesel fuel gets pushes out of the lifter fairly quickly anyway and helps push out any air as well.