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How To: Valentine 1 hardwire procedure

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Old Mar 29, 2005, 01:56 PM
  #31  
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Yeah it's easier, but I personally am not about to leave that thing on while not in the car. Just my preference to use an absolutely switched source for power rather than a soft-switched one like that light.
Old Jul 1, 2005, 10:12 AM
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just ordered my V1 and i can't wait to get it ( for multiple reasons )

i too am interested in putting the remote part in where the clock goes

does anyone have pics of it?

thanks
Old Jul 11, 2005, 08:21 AM
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okay i hardwired my v1 into the yellow/red wire that runs up the a pillar, and grounded it on the screw near the tweeter, bound the cables together and dropped them down the little opening that goes to the floor ( also temporarily dropped the remote system through there )

anyways my a pillar doesnt perfectly reclip into place, as those 2 black little clips that go up the pillar are loose, and at the top it doesnt quite pop back in

sorry for explaining so poorly

maybe someone can help
Old Jul 11, 2005, 10:31 AM
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Originally Posted by sureshot!
okay i hardwired my v1 into the yellow/red wire that runs up the a pillar, and grounded it on the screw near the tweeter, bound the cables together and dropped them down the little opening that goes to the floor ( also temporarily dropped the remote system through there )

anyways my a pillar doesnt perfectly reclip into place, as those 2 black little clips that go up the pillar are loose, and at the top it doesnt quite pop back in

sorry for explaining so poorly

maybe someone can help
If you messed up the horizontal 'legs' that clip into the pillar itself, that will cause some spacing issues once the cover is mounted. Take it off, check it out, and re-apply to see if you can fix the issue. Also make sure none of the wires/wraps are protruding.
Old Aug 16, 2005, 05:33 PM
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can use the sunroof. or what not if you have the remote display that would be a pain. and i think the lighter is the best place good room and can run all the wiring and the remote wire easy and clean.
Old Sep 14, 2006, 09:38 PM
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I'd recommend never using the vampire tap that comes with the unit. Just asking for a break in where you tap and an unreliable connection in general.

I used a fuse adaptor (bought at a local auto store, autozone I think) which has plug for a fuse plus a line out of the adaptor for power. I then just plugged into the empty stereo fuse in my MR (bottom left corner in the interior fuse box main section) which is switched off the accessory circuit. I could have used any existing fuse but figured might as well use an empty slot. There is a grounding screw behind the fuse panel to the left to screw the ground to (there are couple other grounds already there). I velcro'd the power block to the side of the stock fuse block. From there, I ran my remote display cable up inside the dash and out the top-side of the steering column (I have my remote display velcro'd there for quick removal if I do get pulled over). The detector cable goes up the door weather stripping to the a-pillar, behind the a-pillar trim, and then under the headliner and out to the detector. As hidden as I can get while allowing me to quickly remove and hide the detector and display.

Took me about 10 minutes, required no pulling of panels, and damaged no wiring.

Last edited by TSiAWD666; Sep 16, 2006 at 11:29 AM.
Old Sep 15, 2006, 04:08 PM
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Originally Posted by TSiAWD666
I'd recommend never using the vampire tap that comes with the unit. Just asking for a break in the wear you tap and an unreliable connection in general.

I used a fuse adaptor (bought at a local auto store, autozone I think) which has plug for a fuse plus a line out of the adaptor for power. I then just plugged into the empty stereo fuse in my MR (bottom left corner in the interior fuse box main section) which is switched off the accessory circuit. I could have used any existing fuse but figured might as well use an empty slot. There is a grounding screw behind the fuse panel to the left to screw the ground to (there are couple other grounds already there). I velcro'd the power block to the side of the stock fuse block. From there, I ran my remote display cable up inside the dash and out the top-side of the steering column (I have my remote display velcro'd there for quick removal if I do get pulled over). The detector cable goes up the door weather stripping to the a-pillar, behind the a-pillar trim, and then under the headliner and out to the detector. As hidden as I can get while allowing me to quickly remove and hide the detector and display.

Took me about 10 minutes, required no pulling of panels, and damaged no wiring.
This is a great idea. How reliable are these fuse adapters? Saves a lot of headache removing the entire center console (and possibly short-cutting your lighter socket power wire).
Old Sep 16, 2006, 11:31 AM
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Hmm, I can only speak from personal experience but I've not had any problems with the adaptors. It's a simple piece so nothing really to break.

Also, even if you choose not to do what I did, there are many more accessory power lines closer to the a-pillar than going all the way to the cigarrette lighter. Just seems kinda silly to run wire that far and have to rip out all those trim panels.
Old Jan 13, 2007, 01:30 AM
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Jeez, when I hardwired my Escort it took maybe 5-10 min. or so. I just tucked the phone cord into the roof liner and a-pillar and connected it to the ignition in the fuse box. I leave the Escort on and when I turn the car on, it comes on, when I turn the car off, it goes off. Seems a lot easier.
Old Nov 8, 2007, 11:53 PM
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I got a remote cable from the fuse box next to the drivers door that goes back and is atached to the amp it only turns on when the car does making my amp and whole system turned on
couldnt the positive of the valentine be wired to the remote cable of the sound system? with this there would be no need to take apart the center console or anything
Old Jan 10, 2008, 07:18 PM
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awesome thread. made my valentine install go quick
Old Jan 10, 2008, 09:45 PM
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Old Jan 17, 2008, 11:29 PM
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just tried the fuse adapter and couldnt get it to work, what did you use to turn the power out wire to work with the v1? did you plug a female to the power wire into the fuse power wire? if so how did you do it? WTF do I do with the blue end of the add a circuit? thanks

Last edited by evilution310; Jan 17, 2008 at 11:50 PM.
Old Jan 18, 2008, 07:52 AM
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I'm going to try this in a week! Nice write up, but I'm going to use the DOM lights since I have LED's in that and it takes no power, so I don't want my V-1 sucking a ton of juice from the cig. lighter while my cellphone is charging from it, I wouldn't want to blow a fuse or something....
Old Mar 8, 2008, 09:31 AM
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Originally Posted by TSiAWD666
I'd recommend never using the vampire tap that comes with the unit. Just asking for a break in where you tap and an unreliable connection in general.

I used a fuse adaptor (bought at a local auto store, autozone I think) which has plug for a fuse plus a line out of the adaptor for power. I then just plugged into the empty stereo fuse in my MR (bottom left corner in the interior fuse box main section) which is switched off the accessory circuit. I could have used any existing fuse but figured might as well use an empty slot. There is a grounding screw behind the fuse panel to the left to screw the ground to (there are couple other grounds already there). I velcro'd the power block to the side of the stock fuse block. From there, I ran my remote display cable up inside the dash and out the top-side of the steering column (I have my remote display velcro'd there for quick removal if I do get pulled over). The detector cable goes up the door weather stripping to the a-pillar, behind the a-pillar trim, and then under the headliner and out to the detector. As hidden as I can get while allowing me to quickly remove and hide the detector and display.

Took me about 10 minutes, required no pulling of panels, and damaged no wiring.


Thanks a whole lot for your post I did mine same way as yours and the install went as smooth as glass..the V1 is working perfectly. This is the best method IMO to hardwire your V1.


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