How To: Valentine 1 hardwire procedure
#31
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Yeah it's easier, but I personally am not about to leave that thing on while not in the car. Just my preference to use an absolutely switched source for power rather than a soft-switched one like that light.
#32
just ordered my V1 and i can't wait to get it ( for multiple reasons )
i too am interested in putting the remote part in where the clock goes
does anyone have pics of it?
thanks
i too am interested in putting the remote part in where the clock goes
does anyone have pics of it?
thanks
#33
okay i hardwired my v1 into the yellow/red wire that runs up the a pillar, and grounded it on the screw near the tweeter, bound the cables together and dropped them down the little opening that goes to the floor ( also temporarily dropped the remote system through there )
anyways my a pillar doesnt perfectly reclip into place, as those 2 black little clips that go up the pillar are loose, and at the top it doesnt quite pop back in
sorry for explaining so poorly
maybe someone can help
anyways my a pillar doesnt perfectly reclip into place, as those 2 black little clips that go up the pillar are loose, and at the top it doesnt quite pop back in
sorry for explaining so poorly
maybe someone can help
#34
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Originally Posted by sureshot!
okay i hardwired my v1 into the yellow/red wire that runs up the a pillar, and grounded it on the screw near the tweeter, bound the cables together and dropped them down the little opening that goes to the floor ( also temporarily dropped the remote system through there )
anyways my a pillar doesnt perfectly reclip into place, as those 2 black little clips that go up the pillar are loose, and at the top it doesnt quite pop back in
sorry for explaining so poorly
maybe someone can help
anyways my a pillar doesnt perfectly reclip into place, as those 2 black little clips that go up the pillar are loose, and at the top it doesnt quite pop back in
sorry for explaining so poorly
maybe someone can help
#36
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I'd recommend never using the vampire tap that comes with the unit. Just asking for a break in where you tap and an unreliable connection in general.
I used a fuse adaptor (bought at a local auto store, autozone I think) which has plug for a fuse plus a line out of the adaptor for power. I then just plugged into the empty stereo fuse in my MR (bottom left corner in the interior fuse box main section) which is switched off the accessory circuit. I could have used any existing fuse but figured might as well use an empty slot. There is a grounding screw behind the fuse panel to the left to screw the ground to (there are couple other grounds already there). I velcro'd the power block to the side of the stock fuse block. From there, I ran my remote display cable up inside the dash and out the top-side of the steering column (I have my remote display velcro'd there for quick removal if I do get pulled over). The detector cable goes up the door weather stripping to the a-pillar, behind the a-pillar trim, and then under the headliner and out to the detector. As hidden as I can get while allowing me to quickly remove and hide the detector and display.
Took me about 10 minutes, required no pulling of panels, and damaged no wiring.
I used a fuse adaptor (bought at a local auto store, autozone I think) which has plug for a fuse plus a line out of the adaptor for power. I then just plugged into the empty stereo fuse in my MR (bottom left corner in the interior fuse box main section) which is switched off the accessory circuit. I could have used any existing fuse but figured might as well use an empty slot. There is a grounding screw behind the fuse panel to the left to screw the ground to (there are couple other grounds already there). I velcro'd the power block to the side of the stock fuse block. From there, I ran my remote display cable up inside the dash and out the top-side of the steering column (I have my remote display velcro'd there for quick removal if I do get pulled over). The detector cable goes up the door weather stripping to the a-pillar, behind the a-pillar trim, and then under the headliner and out to the detector. As hidden as I can get while allowing me to quickly remove and hide the detector and display.
Took me about 10 minutes, required no pulling of panels, and damaged no wiring.
Last edited by TSiAWD666; Sep 16, 2006 at 11:29 AM.
#37
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Originally Posted by TSiAWD666
I'd recommend never using the vampire tap that comes with the unit. Just asking for a break in the wear you tap and an unreliable connection in general.
I used a fuse adaptor (bought at a local auto store, autozone I think) which has plug for a fuse plus a line out of the adaptor for power. I then just plugged into the empty stereo fuse in my MR (bottom left corner in the interior fuse box main section) which is switched off the accessory circuit. I could have used any existing fuse but figured might as well use an empty slot. There is a grounding screw behind the fuse panel to the left to screw the ground to (there are couple other grounds already there). I velcro'd the power block to the side of the stock fuse block. From there, I ran my remote display cable up inside the dash and out the top-side of the steering column (I have my remote display velcro'd there for quick removal if I do get pulled over). The detector cable goes up the door weather stripping to the a-pillar, behind the a-pillar trim, and then under the headliner and out to the detector. As hidden as I can get while allowing me to quickly remove and hide the detector and display.
Took me about 10 minutes, required no pulling of panels, and damaged no wiring.
I used a fuse adaptor (bought at a local auto store, autozone I think) which has plug for a fuse plus a line out of the adaptor for power. I then just plugged into the empty stereo fuse in my MR (bottom left corner in the interior fuse box main section) which is switched off the accessory circuit. I could have used any existing fuse but figured might as well use an empty slot. There is a grounding screw behind the fuse panel to the left to screw the ground to (there are couple other grounds already there). I velcro'd the power block to the side of the stock fuse block. From there, I ran my remote display cable up inside the dash and out the top-side of the steering column (I have my remote display velcro'd there for quick removal if I do get pulled over). The detector cable goes up the door weather stripping to the a-pillar, behind the a-pillar trim, and then under the headliner and out to the detector. As hidden as I can get while allowing me to quickly remove and hide the detector and display.
Took me about 10 minutes, required no pulling of panels, and damaged no wiring.
#38
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Hmm, I can only speak from personal experience but I've not had any problems with the adaptors. It's a simple piece so nothing really to break.
Also, even if you choose not to do what I did, there are many more accessory power lines closer to the a-pillar than going all the way to the cigarrette lighter. Just seems kinda silly to run wire that far and have to rip out all those trim panels.
Also, even if you choose not to do what I did, there are many more accessory power lines closer to the a-pillar than going all the way to the cigarrette lighter. Just seems kinda silly to run wire that far and have to rip out all those trim panels.
#39
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Jeez, when I hardwired my Escort it took maybe 5-10 min. or so. I just tucked the phone cord into the roof liner and a-pillar and connected it to the ignition in the fuse box. I leave the Escort on and when I turn the car on, it comes on, when I turn the car off, it goes off. Seems a lot easier.
#40
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I got a remote cable from the fuse box next to the drivers door that goes back and is atached to the amp it only turns on when the car does making my amp and whole system turned on
couldnt the positive of the valentine be wired to the remote cable of the sound system? with this there would be no need to take apart the center console or anything
couldnt the positive of the valentine be wired to the remote cable of the sound system? with this there would be no need to take apart the center console or anything
#43
just tried the fuse adapter and couldnt get it to work, what did you use to turn the power out wire to work with the v1? did you plug a female to the power wire into the fuse power wire? if so how did you do it? WTF do I do with the blue end of the add a circuit? thanks
Last edited by evilution310; Jan 17, 2008 at 11:50 PM.
#44
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I'm going to try this in a week! Nice write up, but I'm going to use the DOM lights since I have LED's in that and it takes no power, so I don't want my V-1 sucking a ton of juice from the cig. lighter while my cellphone is charging from it, I wouldn't want to blow a fuse or something....
#45
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I'd recommend never using the vampire tap that comes with the unit. Just asking for a break in where you tap and an unreliable connection in general.
I used a fuse adaptor (bought at a local auto store, autozone I think) which has plug for a fuse plus a line out of the adaptor for power. I then just plugged into the empty stereo fuse in my MR (bottom left corner in the interior fuse box main section) which is switched off the accessory circuit. I could have used any existing fuse but figured might as well use an empty slot. There is a grounding screw behind the fuse panel to the left to screw the ground to (there are couple other grounds already there). I velcro'd the power block to the side of the stock fuse block. From there, I ran my remote display cable up inside the dash and out the top-side of the steering column (I have my remote display velcro'd there for quick removal if I do get pulled over). The detector cable goes up the door weather stripping to the a-pillar, behind the a-pillar trim, and then under the headliner and out to the detector. As hidden as I can get while allowing me to quickly remove and hide the detector and display.
Took me about 10 minutes, required no pulling of panels, and damaged no wiring.
I used a fuse adaptor (bought at a local auto store, autozone I think) which has plug for a fuse plus a line out of the adaptor for power. I then just plugged into the empty stereo fuse in my MR (bottom left corner in the interior fuse box main section) which is switched off the accessory circuit. I could have used any existing fuse but figured might as well use an empty slot. There is a grounding screw behind the fuse panel to the left to screw the ground to (there are couple other grounds already there). I velcro'd the power block to the side of the stock fuse block. From there, I ran my remote display cable up inside the dash and out the top-side of the steering column (I have my remote display velcro'd there for quick removal if I do get pulled over). The detector cable goes up the door weather stripping to the a-pillar, behind the a-pillar trim, and then under the headliner and out to the detector. As hidden as I can get while allowing me to quickly remove and hide the detector and display.
Took me about 10 minutes, required no pulling of panels, and damaged no wiring.
Thanks a whole lot for your post I did mine same way as yours and the install went as smooth as glass..the V1 is working perfectly. This is the best method IMO to hardwire your V1.