BR Underhood metal bushing install
Just put mine in a few hours ago.
MY GOD does my car feel better. Shifts like butter every time. I just ripped through the gears a dozen times around town and its just amazing at how much better my car feels. I removed the pill and installed a SS clutch line at the same time so maybe its just a combination between them but there is no more notchy grinding when shifting gears. I'm really happy right now
MY GOD does my car feel better. Shifts like butter every time. I just ripped through the gears a dozen times around town and its just amazing at how much better my car feels. I removed the pill and installed a SS clutch line at the same time so maybe its just a combination between them but there is no more notchy grinding when shifting gears. I'm really happy right now
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Joined: Dec 2009
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From: Watertown, NY/ Jalalabad, Afghanistan
i cut the rubber of the bushing and then carefully took a dremel with a cuting disk and cut off the brass part of the bushings... it took me maybe 10 minutes to do both since i have the battery in the trunk.
Did this yesterday, and the top bushing was seized on. I removed the shifter cable and the bushing stuck to the transmission post. I cut all the rubber off, then used a grinding wheel to grind down the back side of the bushing sleeve, until I could barely start to see the post. Then I soaked the bushing sleeve in pb blaster locked vice grips onto the bushing and turned the vice grips while pulling up until it finally came off.
Make sure the new metal bushings spin freely, dont force them on. If they dont go on easily and spin easily, sand them down with a peice of sandpaper until they do. Then put grease (i used wheel bearing grease) on the posts and slide the metal bushing onto the post.
I think if you are using metal bushings you dont need to re-use the washer that was on top of the stock bushing, and if your using the urethane bushings you need to re-use the washer.
I also removed the strut tower bar to get more room, which was helpful.
You will probably notice some of the bolts and nuts were a little difficult to get off and rusted. Its a good idea to put never seize on the bolts and nuts. I put this on almost every bolts and nut i take off, it makes it 10x easier to take them out next time, and you dont have to worry about snapping a bolt off.
Make sure the new metal bushings spin freely, dont force them on. If they dont go on easily and spin easily, sand them down with a peice of sandpaper until they do. Then put grease (i used wheel bearing grease) on the posts and slide the metal bushing onto the post.
I think if you are using metal bushings you dont need to re-use the washer that was on top of the stock bushing, and if your using the urethane bushings you need to re-use the washer.
I also removed the strut tower bar to get more room, which was helpful.
You will probably notice some of the bolts and nuts were a little difficult to get off and rusted. Its a good idea to put never seize on the bolts and nuts. I put this on almost every bolts and nut i take off, it makes it 10x easier to take them out next time, and you dont have to worry about snapping a bolt off.
Last edited by boostnMA; Apr 29, 2011 at 11:36 AM.
I just did this mod myself. My bushings were in there pretty tight. The big one came out after pressing my thumb pretty hard. The smaller one was seized too, and it would not submit to my thumb. I ended up putting a pair of needle nose pliers into the center of the bushing hole, put the end at the base of my hand, and wrapped four of my fingers around the cable and assembley and squeezed hard. It came out and only using one hand. There isn't much space for two arms back there. I thought about removing the strut bar, but it didn't seem like i would have gained that much of an advantage.
I had just put on some brakes so I used antiseize on the c clip whenI installed it.
I had just put on some brakes so I used antiseize on the c clip whenI installed it.
Did this yesterday, and the top bushing was seized on. I removed the shifter cable and the bushing stuck to the transmission post. I cut all the rubber off, then used a grinding wheel to grind down the back side of the bushing sleeve, until I could barely start to see the post. Then I soaked the bushing sleeve in pb blaster locked vice grips onto the bushing and turned the vice grips while pulling up until it finally came off.
Make sure the new metal bushings spin freely, dont force them on. If they dont go on easily and spin easily, sand them down with a peice of sandpaper until they do. Then put grease (i used wheel bearing grease) on the posts and slide the metal bushing onto the post.
I think if you are using metal bushings you dont need to re-use the washer that was on top of the stock bushing, and if your using the urethane bushings you need to re-use the washer.
I also removed the strut tower bar to get more room, which was helpful.
You will probably notice some of the bolts and nuts were a little difficult to get off and rusted. Its a good idea to put never seize on the bolts and nuts. I put this on almost every bolts and nut i take off, it makes it 10x easier to take them out next time, and you dont have to worry about snapping a bolt off.
Make sure the new metal bushings spin freely, dont force them on. If they dont go on easily and spin easily, sand them down with a peice of sandpaper until they do. Then put grease (i used wheel bearing grease) on the posts and slide the metal bushing onto the post.
I think if you are using metal bushings you dont need to re-use the washer that was on top of the stock bushing, and if your using the urethane bushings you need to re-use the washer.
I also removed the strut tower bar to get more room, which was helpful.
You will probably notice some of the bolts and nuts were a little difficult to get off and rusted. Its a good idea to put never seize on the bolts and nuts. I put this on almost every bolts and nut i take off, it makes it 10x easier to take them out next time, and you dont have to worry about snapping a bolt off.