I bought my car in June of 09, ever since i bought it the switch for the driver door being open/closed never worked and my keyless entry was never programmed.

Tonight i finally decided to program the keyless entry after 6 months.

It was quick and easy. I close the doors and go to test it - nothing .

I unscrew the door switch and see that it had been disconnected.

I tinker with it and eventually get it connected and the door chime starts going off.

I decided to look under the dash and uninstall the annoying turbo timer I never use.

After removing the turbo timer(thinking it had to deal with that wiring) the chime still goes off.

I have no key in the ignition and thus the car is recognizing something the keyless entry will not work.


Anyone have any suggestions or diagrams i can follow?


I also am trying to get at the ECU right now to see if they patched into the speed and RPM wires.

 

I have the same issue man.

When I was installing my turbo timer, I brushed against some wires on the wire block at the bottom of the dash (the one near the foot rest) and the chime stopped.

Have no clue what is causing it to chime like the key is in and not recognize my keyfob either.

I haven't looked into it any further than that, but I know that when I wiggle the wires on one of the plugs on that block, the chime stops.

 

You say the chime stops but does the keyfob work after it stops too?

 

I have no clue, because I only can wiggle the wire to make the chime stop. I haven't looked that deep into it yet. But my fob will not program no.

 

Ah. Then I'm just a bit luckier than you. I'm able to program but it does me no good because they don't lock/unlock with this situation

 

check that old thread...

 

This is happneing to me NEED help!

 

Ok, look under the top piece above the steering wheel..in there there's a little box looking thing that has two wires running together...I belive it's an off white...if the two wires are separated that's when the ding will continue...touch those two wires together and it should go away...to fix it just put some electrical tape around them.

This happens alot of times when people are installing turbo timers cuz they are not careful when taking the pieces apart and they knock what used to be the top of the white box and it's spring loaded so it goes flying away...usually un noticed...

 

To add on to the above post. My white ignition box was partially broken with the sprigs out. No hardware store arou d me carried the right size so I used the spring from a generic Bic light cut to size. I used electrical tape over top of the box to ensure it would stay and just a touch of lube on the piston that goes into the ignitionto check for the key.

Ever since, it has worked flawlessly and I haven't had any issues.

Just remember to BE GENTLE, the plastic is VERY thin. If you have more questions I'll try to help.

 

Do you have a picture of where this wire is?

 

I had this issue just recently , my spring did not fall out completely but I needed to snap it back in place and glue the white box because it broke away from the mounting points.

I want to note I was unable to program my key fob as well but once I secured the housing I was able to program the fob.

Here is a pic of the box if anyone still has issues finding it.

 

Haha, only 4 years later. I've since got it fixed but thanks for the pic!

 

Anybody know the part number for the broken piece in the photo above?

Anyone know where I can find the part number?

 

Is it just this?

https://stmtuned.com/products/igniti...ch-oem-evo-8-9

 

To answer my own question, yes. It is that, but I'm wondering if by chance anyone has any pics?

When the key is in the ignition, it depresses the cylinder which should cause the contact between those 2 green wires to be broken, and cause the door chime to happen. But I can't figure out what causes the plunger to resist the key.

Basically, something isn't holding something in the right place here.