I have an AFCII and a ECU Harness, and want to know how to connect the AFCII wires to the harness? It says to tap the wires. I can't figure out how to stripe back the insulation on the harness wires without cutting the wire so I have two ends. Is this how you have to get the insulation of the harness wires, or is there a way to stripe off the insulation of the wires with out cutting through them. I'm a newbie when it comes to this type of stuff, so any help would be appreciated.

 

You might want to get an extension harness from Z1 Performance, Skunk2, or Buschur Racing (Buschur's website has the item on display so you can see what it looks like) However the key to getting a good install is to SOLDER the wires and not crimp them.

In the case of the MAF Wire, that has to be cut, hence the reason its preferrable to get the extension.

However, the trick to stripping the wire is to get a very sharp exacto, and score around the wire (Deep enough to cut through the insulator) in two locations about 1/4 inch apart.. then score a line between the two scores and peel the cover off.. you'll get a perfect place to solder the S-AFC wires.

I'll repeat this again, its best that you use an extension harness and not cut into your factory wiring harness.. The extension is a "Field One-Touch" Harness, part number CN-04

http://www.buschurracing.com/cgi-bin....cgi?20X376545

They call it a patch harness.. but everyone who offers them uses the same product.. Both Z1 performance and Buschur have hooked me up, but their not the only ones who sell them.

 

Whoops.. Missed the part that you said you had the harness.. disregard my emphasis on the harness extension..

But I can tell you my trick for making perfect joints..

Trim them like I said.. use a piece of cardboard between the wire your working on and the rest of the wires.. less prone to damage other things while soldering..

Good luck! Its actually very easy..

A trick that I use is I bought a pair of hemostats (Stainless clamps used for surgery, looks like needle nosed pliers with a lock mechanism) to hold things together.. if you can't find them, use wire ties to hold the wires you plan on soldering together at the insulator and wrap the bare wire around the stripped portion, and solder, heat it enough so it flows through the wires and "Soaks up" the solder, thats how you know you'll get agood connection. Everyone who's tried crimping has had unsatisfactory results.

 

If you don't want to solder and use shrink tubing...
There are a variety of crimp connectors and "vampire" clamps...

Any of these things can be had at jameco.com... They have alot of really nice no hasstle connectors.

 

Thanks for the info. Appreciate it. Gonna' run to Walmart now, and pick up a solder iron. Thanks again

 

All of those things tend to either come lose over time, or corrode and begin to give you problems after a while..

They work for car stereo equipment, but this stuff is a little too sensitive to variations in readings.

 

Definate solder the wires...not worth having to do it twice.

 

always remember to use just enough solder, dont over do it. A section no more than a half inch is good. Also remember that too much solder will run up into the insulated part and may cause a break later on.

 

Guys there is a special tool that will splice the wires, it removes the plastic no problem, the tool is very professional and its a sinch! When i go to work tomorrow i will look at the name of the tool and tell u guys, but its a really cool took, very handy!

 

there are always T-taps. I have used them forever for any kind of wire taps i need to do. No cutting required, all u do is tighten the t-tap around the wire u need to tap into, and click it shut, once that is done it automatically taps the wire for you and an opening is there for your wire with a spade connector on the end to go right in!

 

Taps are bad.. They are somewhat unreliable.. Good for a stereo.. bad for an ECU mod.. Oh, and that "Section stripper" tool is EXPENSIVE.. I had one, got it from Fryes Electronics when I was in Texas.. it got stolen when my other car got broken into. I don't splice enough wires to make it worthwhile to get a new one of the tools.

 

Thats it! "Section Stripper", well thats not obviously the name of the tool but that is the best way i can describe it, and yes it is expensive but if you work at a shop and are installing AFC's, Boost Controllers, etc all day then it is VERY handy.

 

Aren't those things like $300 dollars? Some even more?
They work awesome, but for the price...

 

Hell yeah.. my regular mechanical stripper (as opposed to the lap-dance kind) cost about $90, the one that is technically called a "Splice Joint Stripper" (I called up my tool guy and asked) said it was just over $200, and he recommended using a "Knuckle" wire stripper and then a pocket knife to cut the insulation away between the two insulation scores.. But that is already the way I did it..

FWIW, try to use a soldering iron of at least 25 watts.. I use a 15watt pencil iron, and it worked for the single wire joints, but anything with slightly heavier gauge, or multiple wires (In my case I had an AVCR and an SAFC that had a few connections in common) you need something that can transfer a bit more heat to get good even flow of the solder into the strands of wire in the entire joint.

 

my stupid question is does anyone have the ecu connector numbers and pin numbers in those connectors that You need to splice into,as I bought a safcII used and guess what,NO INSTRUCTIONS.I do know how to use it so that wont be a problem,just need to know what wires comming off the safcII need to go to what pins off the ecu.any help is very much appreicated.Thanks again.
PS.I did use the "SEARCH" and did not come up with any helpful info as to what pins at ecu connectors i need to splice into.