Ok i put in my stainless steel clutch line (THIS TOOK FOREVER) as my hands are big, and that wasn't really the issue, the banjo bolt has to be exactly square, there is a trick to it, you just need to push all the slack toward the firewall so it stops, then it will line up properly.

Anyway on to the HOWTO !!!

Clutch Push Rod, which is 1/4 inch shorter so that the clutch will dis-engage more. It is picked up from lancershop.com.
This is the piece i'm talking about



here they are side by side



Removal:

Remove your intake, and battery tray:



next remove the clutch release cylinder:



now that is is removed manuver it so you can pull the boot off:



Close up of boot with stock push rod into it:



Remove the stock rod by pushing it out, and then place the new rod into the boot:



Place back onto the clutch release cylinder, and bolt everything back on, there is not bleeding nessisary unless you replaced the SS Clutch line with this as i did.

If you have any questions feel free to ask..

 

nice write up, do you feel a difference in disengagement with the new rod?

 

its different, as it stands now there is less free-play, i'm still not sure about it...since its hydrolic, you would figure regardless its going to balance out...when i take it back to the track i'll know...

 

I don't get this mod because it cause the clutch disengagement to be less, there increasing the likelyhood of the clutch drag on shifting, etc. I believe by disengagement you mean pedal (ie clutch engagement). I don't think anyone paid attention to my post almost a year ago but proper pedal pushrod length is key to cutch engagement. My pedal pushrod was not in spec and not really close. This will prevent full engement of clutch as the piston is not properly positioned in the the clutch master cylinder and therefore is too far down the cylinder bore preventing the full release of pressure.

 

I have this mod and just began having very sticky shifting after I removed my clutch restrictor pill, 3rd to 4th shift is particularly a pita, would you guys recomend me romoving the "clutch extender rod"? Has anyone else experienced notchier shifting from this or any grinding in gears that would shift smooth in the past? I'm curious as to why this problem only manifested itself after I did the clutch pill removal. Any words of wisdom would be greatly appreciated.

 

What clutch do you have?

Most likely you still have air in the slave cylinder after removing the restrictor.

 

timzcat,

I have the ACT clutch with the performance disc upgrade (exedy) from RRE along with a Fidanza flywheel, I will bleed my system again but d#mn, I really though I had bled all of the air out, thanks for your advice. I will pick up a speed bleeder tomorrow and do it myselft this time.

 

Guys! The clutch pedal can be adjusted from inside the car. There's no need to buy a shorter rod. By adjusting it from inside the car, will give the same results. look above the clutch pedal, there's a locking nut on the rod. loosen the locking nut and twist the rod. don't forget to lock it back.

 

Well I found the easiest way to get all the air out is to remove one bolt from the slave cylinder and swing out the push rod end so you can push the rod in and out with a tube on the bleeder in a can of brake fluid. This moves a lot of fluid in the slave and makes it easier to ensure the air is out.


It is very important to make sure that the free play in the pedal is correct. If the rod is to tight it wil keep the piston in the master cylinder down the bore slightly and cause residual pressure to be held in the line which in turn will not allow the pressure plate to engage the clutch fully.

With a stock type clutch, I don't see the need for the push rod because the pressure plate height and travel are unchanged. On a twin disk I don't doubt that it may help.

 

I need some advice.
I installed th Exedy hyper single. It now engages all the way up top. I adjusted the pedal but that only sets where top is, High or low to the ground. The engagement is still at the last 1/10th of travel. Will get a shorter pushrod solve my issue? or do I need a longer one?

 

Is the point of this rod to help with the decell noise and throwout bearing noise at idle? I just put in a new clutch from RRE and my car started having these problems right after the new clutch but never did it before. I feel like the clutch fork isnt letting the TOB sit flush against the pressure plate when the clutch is engauged which is causeing it to chatter. Will the shorter rod help the fork to sit back further and keep the TOB sitting flush against the pressure plate?

 

I just chopped 1/8" off the ends of the stock one, rounded it off and polished it to a shine with my dremel. Worked perfect...

 

hey guys I recently put a act clutch and prostreet flywheel with ss line with bg fluid. When i get into the car and start it when i go to put the car into reverse it is very stiff and locks out sometime same with everygear except 3rd then once i put into 3rd every gear is fine and even when I drive there is no problem. only when i start it as if something is stuck and not releasing. im getting the kartboy bushings for inside the engine and in the shifter consol should i buy this rod and replace my stock one and see if that helps it? it is def not the ss line or the fluid it has to be either the rod or pedal adjustment...please help guys i was also told that my rod might not totally be in and it might be loose is there a pic showing what it means to be all the way in. thanks!
Gary

 

try bleeding the clutch and adjusting the clutch pedal freeplay. if that doesn't work, you can either get the shorter push rod or chop 1/8" off your stock one with a dremel like i did.

 

i already ordered the rod and decided to do that before i adjust the pedal because many people say the release becomes to high and it does not feel right. If the rod will do the job of the clutch pedal freeplay fix then that is cool what are ure thaughts. It couldnt be the bleeding of the clutch because it was done when installing the ss line.
Thank you so far.