Defi boost gauge install w/ pics
#31
Evolving Member
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: May 2004
Location: San Jose, CA/ Las Vegas, NV
Posts: 170
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
nice write up, used the instructions, helped alot, although it took me a while to figure out the plug for the hose, since i have a jdm, its on the other side, so it was under the driver side instead of the passenger, haha. after that its went like a charm.
#33
Evolving Member
iTrader: (15)
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Lexington, KY
Posts: 456
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by EVO8LTW
I just used these successfully with one modification. I tapped the yellow/black wire off the dimmer rather than the black wire so that the gauge would dim with the dash. Otherwise, the directions were perfect! Thanks.
#34
Sorry for resurrecting a thread that should probably be dead, but I have not found anybody discussing the issue I bring up below even after searching the archives.
Does anybody else besides myself have any issue with taping into the fuel pressure regulator line to run the boost guage? I am worried about loosing signal/pressure to the fuel pressure regulator and potentially running lean. I know all the fittings will be tight at least initially, but an accidental leak at a later date could mean big problems.
There are a few other points you can tap into, depending on your gauge (if you need boost and vacuum or just boost), two on the throttle body and a couple more on the intake manifold (brake booster, BOV, waste gate).
The autometer gauge I'm about to install is boost only, no vacuum reading. I'd prefer not to subject the gauge to vacuum. Does anybody know if one of the ports on the throttle body is upstream of the throttle plate?
I'd hate to have to pull the upper IC piping just so I could weld a nipple on there for my boost gauge.
Mark
Does anybody else besides myself have any issue with taping into the fuel pressure regulator line to run the boost guage? I am worried about loosing signal/pressure to the fuel pressure regulator and potentially running lean. I know all the fittings will be tight at least initially, but an accidental leak at a later date could mean big problems.
There are a few other points you can tap into, depending on your gauge (if you need boost and vacuum or just boost), two on the throttle body and a couple more on the intake manifold (brake booster, BOV, waste gate).
The autometer gauge I'm about to install is boost only, no vacuum reading. I'd prefer not to subject the gauge to vacuum. Does anybody know if one of the ports on the throttle body is upstream of the throttle plate?
I'd hate to have to pull the upper IC piping just so I could weld a nipple on there for my boost gauge.
Mark
#35
Evolving Member
iTrader: (12)
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Ashburn, VA
Posts: 197
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Used this to install my Defi boost gauge this past week, awesome! Thanks!
One thing that may save some time. I opened the little storage area below the dimmer switch and reached under and popped out the side opening. You just have to feel around for the clips and unclip a couple. This way you can just unplug the light level and dimmer switch sockets vs having to pop out the harness then unhooking them.
One thing that may save some time. I opened the little storage area below the dimmer switch and reached under and popped out the side opening. You just have to feel around for the clips and unclip a couple. This way you can just unplug the light level and dimmer switch sockets vs having to pop out the harness then unhooking them.
#36
Evolved Member
iTrader: (38)
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Laurel, MD
Posts: 660
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
the right way to wire the lighting
I just installed my Autometer boost gauge. I wired the lighting to the dimmer switch. One wire to the black/yellow stripe wire and the other wire (doesn't matter which) to the green/white stripe. The gauge light dims perfectly with the rest of the dash. The red wire taps work great.
#37
Tap into the cigarette lighter and the gauge will actually dim along with the cluster and instruments, but I am running 3 gauges in the center and have no stereo in my RS. I'm not exactly sure how well it would work to run the electrics from the steering column down to the cigarette lighter. Just thought I would share if you wanted your gauges to dim.
#40
Evolving Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: St. Louis
Posts: 161
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
i used this to install an Autometer Ultralite... i was wondering if people were having electrical problems with this ground point???
my rear driverside door will no longer electrically open
my rear windshield wiper blade wont go
my left rear light will sometimes go out
dont know whats going on
a little help...
my rear driverside door will no longer electrically open
my rear windshield wiper blade wont go
my left rear light will sometimes go out
dont know whats going on
a little help...
#43
Evolved Member
iTrader: (26)
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 2,426
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
There are electical parts called "wire taps" all you do is clip one on the wire in the dimmer, add a connector to your gauge wire and plug that into the tap. It's really easy. Ask someone at your local auto parts store for some red wire taps. He'll know what you're talking about.
#45
Newbie
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Punxsutawney, PA
Posts: 74
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ok guys, maybe you can help.
I went through the install just like it is above, but my gauge seems really sluggish (sometimes not even responding at all in 1st and 2nd gears). Also, i'm getting no vaccum, and when I let off the gas the gauge seems to only drop to about 10-11 psi and stay there until I turn the car off, then it slowly goes down to 0. Could this be a bad gauge? Anything I should be double checking? I got this thing around Christmas, and someone mentioned there might have been a bad batch of them around that time?
I went through the install just like it is above, but my gauge seems really sluggish (sometimes not even responding at all in 1st and 2nd gears). Also, i'm getting no vaccum, and when I let off the gas the gauge seems to only drop to about 10-11 psi and stay there until I turn the car off, then it slowly goes down to 0. Could this be a bad gauge? Anything I should be double checking? I got this thing around Christmas, and someone mentioned there might have been a bad batch of them around that time?