EVO Clutch Install, includes t-case removal and service manual links
Mar 11, 2005, 11:14 PM
#63
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Installing clutch starting on friday... got 4 days to complete it but I may need help... I have this post to go buy and i don't expect it to be very easy, so is there ne1 here I could maybe IM or call if I get stuck sumwhere along the way??? I decided to go with the ACT street kit adn a prostreet flywheel because I heard from everyone that it would be the best choice for a daily driver... can wait to get it running again. I think I forgot how fast my car is... now as soon as boost comes in it just revvs and revvs then catches and goes... god slipping clutches SUCK!!!
Mar 12, 2005, 08:56 PM
#64
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Originally Posted by Joe's_EVO8
Best of luck. I am sure you will do just fine. If you need help just PM me and you can call me if you have any questions.
Joe
Joe
got it half done today...any tips on getting the tranny back on the splines? The tranny is back up under the car, just cant get it to slide on...we are gonna play with it again tommorow...after that it all should be good and back to bolting it all together. Also any tips on the rear mount on how to get to it to tighten those bolts back up? they were a PITA to loosen.
Mar 13, 2005, 10:17 AM
#66
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Thanks for the help. unless your a beast like me... 
Then you need a couple of jacks to help lift the trans in there. I lifted it in there with a little help from a friend on top.
And yes I picked up some racheting wrenched around X-mas time, would have worked wonder for this job...
Then you need a couple of jacks to help lift the trans in there. I lifted it in there with a little help from a friend on top. And yes I picked up some racheting wrenched around X-mas time, would have worked wonder for this job...
Mar 13, 2005, 12:08 PM
#67
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For the pplz that installed the exedy twin disk, what other things do I need for the slutch change? I read somewhere that you need a dowel pin for the clutch. Also, did the clutch come with the throw out bearing? help a brothat out yo!!!!!! thanks...........
Mar 17, 2005, 05:17 AM
#71
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Originally Posted by vletnguyen
i still cant believe joe bench pressed the thing.. i used a wrinch and two other people to get it up..
haha you mean you used a jack?
Mar 17, 2005, 05:44 AM
#72
I did my exedy twin a few months ago.
For those having troubles getting the tranny to slide on, make SURE you have the clutch disc or discs' (for twin plate) lined up perfect. Otherwise its gonna be tough to wrestle it on.
That was the only hang-up I had. I think the mitsu. allignment pin was a POS and had some slop in it..prolly the wrong one. I finally ended up using a modified pin from an early 90's V-6 Ford Ranger and it worked like a champ.
For those considering removing the entire sub frame may want to reconsider. Its completly unnecessary and will add major time to your install and you will more than likely never get your steering shaft lined back up correctly. I've seen it happen to at least 2 people who have gone that route.
FWIW...I had mine completed from start to finish in about 8 hours with a lunch break and no help at all so if anyone in the DC-NoVA-MD area needs an extra hand or some advice feel free to PM me.
For those having troubles getting the tranny to slide on, make SURE you have the clutch disc or discs' (for twin plate) lined up perfect. Otherwise its gonna be tough to wrestle it on.
That was the only hang-up I had. I think the mitsu. allignment pin was a POS and had some slop in it..prolly the wrong one. I finally ended up using a modified pin from an early 90's V-6 Ford Ranger and it worked like a champ.
For those considering removing the entire sub frame may want to reconsider. Its completly unnecessary and will add major time to your install and you will more than likely never get your steering shaft lined back up correctly. I've seen it happen to at least 2 people who have gone that route.
FWIW...I had mine completed from start to finish in about 8 hours with a lunch break and no help at all so if anyone in the DC-NoVA-MD area needs an extra hand or some advice feel free to PM me.
Mar 17, 2005, 08:09 AM
#73
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Originally Posted by Joe's_EVO8
Not a big deal, you need a clutch extender rod for the slave cylinder. Not sure about anything else tho
Mar 17, 2005, 08:24 AM
#74
Yea, you dont need it, but it does improve the enguagement with it.
I did'nt used the factory clutch rod for the first couple weeks and it was fine, the clutch would enguage a bit high for my taste. I put the Lancer shop one in and it was much better. Right in the center where I like it. I removed the restrictor the following weekend when I did the stainless steel clutch line and it made the fell and enguagument even better. Eliminating all clutch chatter in the process. I think it all comes down to personell preference.
If you launch your car alot I dont recommend pulling the restrictor though.
I did'nt used the factory clutch rod for the first couple weeks and it was fine, the clutch would enguage a bit high for my taste. I put the Lancer shop one in and it was much better. Right in the center where I like it. I removed the restrictor the following weekend when I did the stainless steel clutch line and it made the fell and enguagument even better. Eliminating all clutch chatter in the process. I think it all comes down to personell preference.
If you launch your car alot I dont recommend pulling the restrictor though.
Mar 17, 2005, 01:34 PM
#75
I've done a couple of different evo clutch jobs working part time for a local shop and I can vouch for the fact that they are not fun. We bill it out at 6.5 hours, but I can get it done in 5 no problem. Hard work though, even with every tool imaginable. A lot of respect to you guys doing it on your garage floors.
Couple of notes:
I've been doing it with the rear motor mount still on the trans. It can be very hard to get that mount off the trans, and I've found it to be easier to ease the trans betweent the power steering lines and rear mount on the front subframe.
I just thread a good M8 bolt with a fender washer into the xfer case output shaft and with the use of a BFP (big *^)@ing prybar, give it a swift tug. I've yet to see a slap-hammer, but the prybar works pretty well.
The trickiest part by far is taking the trans out and putting it back in. One one hand, you're dealing with over 100 lbs of cast aluminum and gearsets, and on the other, you're trying to get a very precise alignment of the input shaft while not pushing the TOB retainer back into the pressure plate, or marring the pressure plate itself. Pull-style clutches are not my favorites.
Take extra caution in making sure you have proper clearance around the TOB, input shaft, and TOB retainer on the pressure plate. I have have to take the trans back down because this was accidentally released once.
Here's a not so funny story for you guys. The first time I did an Evo Exedy twin-disc install, it rattled at idle. No big deal if you know anything about them. But the bosses didn't think that it was normal so I had to completely take the thing apart again and reassemble. At least I had the satisfaction that I was right all along.
On an order of difficulty scale, I'd put this at a 7. Definately not for your average bolt on guy. Even if you've dropped a trans or two, I'd say you've got your work cut out for you. At the same time, if you wuss out and don't do your own clutch, you'll probably keep paying people to do it for you, so be prepared to keep spending the big $$$ because trans issues and Mitsubishi's are like lamb and tunafish. What? You don't like that analogy? Allright, how about spaghetti and meatballs...
Couple of notes:
I've been doing it with the rear motor mount still on the trans. It can be very hard to get that mount off the trans, and I've found it to be easier to ease the trans betweent the power steering lines and rear mount on the front subframe.
I just thread a good M8 bolt with a fender washer into the xfer case output shaft and with the use of a BFP (big *^)@ing prybar, give it a swift tug. I've yet to see a slap-hammer, but the prybar works pretty well.
The trickiest part by far is taking the trans out and putting it back in. One one hand, you're dealing with over 100 lbs of cast aluminum and gearsets, and on the other, you're trying to get a very precise alignment of the input shaft while not pushing the TOB retainer back into the pressure plate, or marring the pressure plate itself. Pull-style clutches are not my favorites.
Take extra caution in making sure you have proper clearance around the TOB, input shaft, and TOB retainer on the pressure plate. I have have to take the trans back down because this was accidentally released once.
Here's a not so funny story for you guys. The first time I did an Evo Exedy twin-disc install, it rattled at idle. No big deal if you know anything about them. But the bosses didn't think that it was normal so I had to completely take the thing apart again and reassemble. At least I had the satisfaction that I was right all along.
On an order of difficulty scale, I'd put this at a 7. Definately not for your average bolt on guy. Even if you've dropped a trans or two, I'd say you've got your work cut out for you. At the same time, if you wuss out and don't do your own clutch, you'll probably keep paying people to do it for you, so be prepared to keep spending the big $$$ because trans issues and Mitsubishi's are like lamb and tunafish. What? You don't like that analogy? Allright, how about spaghetti and meatballs...