fostytou

iTrader: (15)

Reasons:
Make Nightime Driving Safer and easier.
* Eliminate dangerous glare from the vehicles traveling behind you with an auto dimming rearview mirror.
* It detects glare and automatically dims to preserve driver vision and make nighttime driving safer.
* The brighter the glare, the darker the mirror becomes.
* These mirrors have a clearer, cleaner image than flip up mirrors. Especially when comparing dimmed modes
* Gives you a better view with a lower profile on the windshield and a better angle toward the back of the car.
* Compass comes in handy of course

I got tired of flipping up the tab on my Evo mirror, and the wing would block lights sometimes, but not others. In the end the stock mirror was bad any way I sliced it.

For reference, some specs on two mirror choices.
Donnelly 36200 (19709) Dimensions: 10" L x 3 1/2" H (Bottom of Mirror where display is another 1/2")
-Temp and compass below mirror

Gentex GENK5 Dimensions: 10-1/2" Wide x 2-5/8" H
-Temp and compass in mirror


-I opted for the GENK5, it seemed a little less expensive and of the same build quality as Donnelly. I like the shape a little better, and its nice that the mirror sits a bit higher on the windshield (makes it easier to see cherries and gives me a better view front and back).
-I also wanted a compass, but did not see the need for installing the temp sensor. The mirrors without compass or temp sensor are even less expensive.
-I believe Subaru uses Donnelly OEM.


Where to get one:
There are places all over the internet selling these things, but there are two sellers on ebay who sell the GENTEX models at a great price, direct from manufacturer. I chose the first one, but only because he answered my question (about what type of mirror adapter we have) quicker. The answer is simple wedge style, NOT camlock. (see image for removal)
http://myworld.ebay.com/brandnewelectronics
http://myworld.ebay.com/ebaymotors/yovus/

Tools Required:
Torx #20 (may be model dependent)
A couple of flat head screwdrivers


How To:
1. First you will want to snap the plastic cover off of the mirror as described in the diagram from the manual. Just use a thin blade screwdriver on each side. The plastic is pretty soft, so don't go ripping your camlock adapter off of the windshield and making this an expensive project.

2. Again, referring to the manual diagram, you will now pull a small tab at the bottom of the mount for the mirror and then slide the mount and mirror up off of the windshield. Again, doesn't take much force, just some soft plastic. See picture 2 for reference.

3. Your mirror is off, good job! Now grab your shiny new Gentex mirror and get ready to put it on. Theres NO NEED to pull the plastic housing off of the mount, it will be more difficult to snap on later.... trust me I would however recommend pulling off the clip that holds the wire to othe shaft, this will help with cleaning up the install later. Put it in a safe place!

4. Position the mirror mount (and mirror) above the camlock and slide down. You will probably hear it click into place, but when its in you shouldn't be able to just slide it off.

5. Fasten the Torx screw. If you bought the GENK5 it should be a Torx #20. Again, your mirror should stay in place but this is just helping to lock it down, don't overtighten or you can break the mirror or break the mount off the windshield.

6. Now we are going to run the power wire (and temp wire, if you bought that model) leave a little slack by the mirror so you can clamp the wire to the mirror shaft when you are finished and start pushing the wire up into the headliner. I used a rounded flathead that I had to pul the headliner down just enough to push the wire in flat, but if you just push it in you should be fine. Either way the headliner is kind of fragile, so don't go cracking and bending it up. It helps if you make sure the wire is flat and doesn't twist before you start pushing it into the headliner. I went toward the driver's side to tap into the fusebox by the clutch pedal.

7. Once you are close to the A-pillar stop. Some people may prefer to have the A-pillar out already, but I feel the trim gets in the way and makes for another thing for me to break. To remove the apillar pull the door drim off where it covers the A-pillar. You don't need to remove all of it, just kind of let it hang down. Now pull at the top of the a pillar in the center and it will come out. These things are still held one the same way as they have been since the 1990 DSMs, a metal clip over plastic at about 1/3 and 2/3 of the way up the pillar. The Evo IX pillar was also "locked in" to the dash at the bottom, requiring you to move it towards the passenger side of the car and then up and out of the dash after it is unclipped.

8. Continue running your wire, tuck it up as near as you can to the wire that runs up the Pillar for the overhead lights, I even wrapped mine around this wire once to make sure it wouldn't pop out from behind the Pillar later. I chose to send mine down through the dash straight to the fuse box.... theres SO much room in this car here compared to DSMs!

**it is possible to run the wire without removing the A-pillar. You can tuck it behind the Pillar just like you did the headliner. Personally I think removing it makes for a cleaner, easier install... but do as you wish. If you choose this method you will have to remove the door molding until you can pass the wire around and below the dash.**

9. Pop it in the fuse box! Use an add-a-fuse, tap an existing power-on-start wire, whatever. Just give the mirror switched, fused power and ground it to the 10mm bolt where everything else is grounded right next to the fuse box.

10. At this point you can tidy up and put your A-pillar back on, tie the excess wire out of the way, push the door molding back on, and clip the mirror wires to the mirror shaft! Now follow the directions for calibrating your mirror and ENJOY!

LancerEvoMR

Discuss thread HERE!