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HOW TO: clutch pedal adjustment

 
Old Mar 26, 2007, 06:02 PM
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HOW TO: clutch pedal adjustment

1. Slide the driver seat all the way back and look at the back of the clutch pedal (flash or drop light helps!).

Adjusting the clutch pedal is very easy. Simply loosen the lock nut from the bracket connecting the push rod to the back of the clutch pedal. With the lock nut loose, the rod can be turned to move the clutch pedal higher or lower. This will in turn increase or decrease the rod travel (and hydraulic movement) and dictate "where" in the pedal the clutch engages.

For the most part, the rod can simply be turned by hand. Wiggling the clutch pedal while turning the rod can make it easier, but there is a flattened location on the rod to use an 8mm wrench if turning it by hand is not possible.

To move the rod higher and increase travel (move engagement up), turn the rod clockwise. To reduce the travel (move engagement down), turn the rod counter-clockwise.

TECH TIP: If an aftermarket clutch is installed and there is trouble getting into gears or it won't go into gear at all, the clutch is likely not being fully disengaged when the pedal is in. To overcome this, adjust the pedal higher.




2. Once the pedal is close, a few test drives and shifts will allow it to be dialed in for your clutch and feel. Do not forget to tighten the lock nut on the rod down before driving!

TECH TIP: try to adjust the pedal and do test drives/shifts with the tranny and clutch warm. If the adjustment is too "close", it may be fine when cold and get notchy or not fully disengage once everything warms up and the clutch expands with heat.
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Old Mar 26, 2007, 06:03 PM
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http://www.roadraceengineering.com/e...utchadjust.htm

EVO Clutch Adjustment
Anytime the clutch is replaced, especially with an aftermarket clutch, you MUST readjust the pedal.

The main adjustment for the EVO clutch is the rod that extends from the pedal assembly into the clutch master cylinder on the firewall. To see it you need to slid the driver's seat all the way back and crawl into the pedal area. Follow the clutch pedal upwards and look for the gold clevis piece.



This is a photo that shows the rod in a short adjustment. Like this, you will be more likely to have shifting problems. The rod needs to be longer so that you get enough travel into the cutch master cylinder.



This photo shows a rod after adjustment. It is now longer.



To make the adjustment, use a 12mm wrench and loosen the lock nut. You will then be able to turn the rod by hand to get a little more travel and therefore release.







You need at least 1mm-3mm of free play (B) at the top of the pedal travel when all is done.If you have the rod adjusted too long, the throw out bearing may be under constant pressure and may even not allow the clutch to fully engage. You need to be sure that there is some free play at the top of the pedal travel.

If you run out of free play at the top of the pedal, you can get a little more upstroke out of it by raising the stop at the top of the pedal assembly. I had to move the fuse box out of the way slightly to gain access to the stop.



Here you can see a 14mm wrench loosening the lock nut. The stop is actually a switch. Loosen the 14mm nut and then you will be able to rotate the switch assembly counter clockwise to get more travel out of the pedal.

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Old Mar 29, 2007, 05:40 PM
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