AHASD (Anti Hot Air Sucking Device) how to
Oct 9, 2007, 08:35 PM
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AHASD (Anti Hot Air Sucking Device) how to
AHASD build & parts list Please note: This is NOT a show item, it is a"GO"item, I'm sure it can be perfected.
Items needed are as follows:
Factory airbox snorkel
Oatey Thermoplastic roof flashing, Lowes item #200172, Model# 11939 (Cost $3.98)
Black zip ties
Black duct tape
Razor knife
Needle nose pliers
Long flat head screw driver
Lexan curved scissors(Not needed but very helpful!)
Process is as follows:
remove AM intake & filter from turbo outlet. The intake tube will be sliding thru the rubber flashing opening. You will need to place the actual intake tube against the rubber part of the flashing & mark it w/ a permanent marker so you can cut it to fit. I recommend leaving it a little on the tight side to create a good seal, you can always trim it some more later.
Next, Take the Thermoplastic flashing and slide it down into the open area(you will most likely have to trim it a little just to get it in there) where the intake filter was located (see photo for location) with the rubber cone area(part that projects outward) facing towards the turbo inlet, the recessed area will be used to fit around the filter (see photos for correct location). At this point you will notice that you WILL have to trim it on the lower right corner to clear you UICP. I put it down in the opening and traced the areas I wanted to trim in order to get it to fit. The flashing I used was fairly wide, so I stuck it down there, marked it and made my cuts.
VERY IMPORTANT: You should be able to cut a full length piece that is 3” wide off of either side, save this piece as you will re-use it to make a side air shield next to the battery using zipties. You will be trimming the lower right corner a good bit, the whole right side, top and some of the left side(some of you will do a way better job than I did getting it to fit). Once you’ve got it in the opening, take it out, slide your intake & filter thru the flashing and put it back into the opening. You will need to finagle it in there(some more trimming may be needed) and make sure you’re able to get the intake back into the turbo w/out anything hanging up.
Next you will be placing your stock airbox snorkel over the top of the flashing so that it can blow cold air down into the filter(see photos for reference), you will have to trace an outline on the top of the flashing to cut so the snorkel won’t get crushed when you close your hood(see photo of removed flashing). I used some 3”dryer duct stretched to fit around my snorkel so as to create an extension to flow the air more directly into the filter, this requires some patience and finagling to make it work, but it can be done. You can use just the black duct tape to secure the dryer duct, however, I drilled 4 small holes and used zipties & duct tape. I wrapped the duct tape around the outside of the modified snorkel to keep it sealed and looking decent. You will need to carefully close your hood several times to check the clearance on the flashing & snorkel against the hood.
Next you will use the 3” piece I said to save, you will use it to make a side curtain to block hot air from sucking around from the inside area next to the battery. You will need to remove the flashing to drill 2 holes into the main flashing & the 3” piece on the corners, that way you can use zipties to attach them together creating a box effect. You will also be drilling 2 holes on each side of the top of the flashing to create anchoring points to attach the flashing (see photos with my finger pointing to the zipties) Now re-install items together to confirm proper fitment, make any final trimming adjustments. At this point you are done!
The only other thing you may want to do is route some 3” ducting from the lower front bumper drivers side area next to the LICP. This is a great source of cold air to route into the AHASD. I routed two 3” ducts which don’t show in the current photos. I used cheap dryer duct due to the fact that the fancy stuff wasn’t available at the time of installation and it was way cheaper. I used some black spray paint afterwards to blend it in.
I hope this is useful.
Items needed are as follows:
Factory airbox snorkel
Oatey Thermoplastic roof flashing, Lowes item #200172, Model# 11939 (Cost $3.98)
Black zip ties
Black duct tape
Razor knife
Needle nose pliers
Long flat head screw driver
Lexan curved scissors(Not needed but very helpful!)
Process is as follows:
remove AM intake & filter from turbo outlet. The intake tube will be sliding thru the rubber flashing opening. You will need to place the actual intake tube against the rubber part of the flashing & mark it w/ a permanent marker so you can cut it to fit. I recommend leaving it a little on the tight side to create a good seal, you can always trim it some more later.
Next, Take the Thermoplastic flashing and slide it down into the open area(you will most likely have to trim it a little just to get it in there) where the intake filter was located (see photo for location) with the rubber cone area(part that projects outward) facing towards the turbo inlet, the recessed area will be used to fit around the filter (see photos for correct location). At this point you will notice that you WILL have to trim it on the lower right corner to clear you UICP. I put it down in the opening and traced the areas I wanted to trim in order to get it to fit. The flashing I used was fairly wide, so I stuck it down there, marked it and made my cuts.
VERY IMPORTANT: You should be able to cut a full length piece that is 3” wide off of either side, save this piece as you will re-use it to make a side air shield next to the battery using zipties. You will be trimming the lower right corner a good bit, the whole right side, top and some of the left side(some of you will do a way better job than I did getting it to fit). Once you’ve got it in the opening, take it out, slide your intake & filter thru the flashing and put it back into the opening. You will need to finagle it in there(some more trimming may be needed) and make sure you’re able to get the intake back into the turbo w/out anything hanging up.
Next you will be placing your stock airbox snorkel over the top of the flashing so that it can blow cold air down into the filter(see photos for reference), you will have to trace an outline on the top of the flashing to cut so the snorkel won’t get crushed when you close your hood(see photo of removed flashing). I used some 3”dryer duct stretched to fit around my snorkel so as to create an extension to flow the air more directly into the filter, this requires some patience and finagling to make it work, but it can be done. You can use just the black duct tape to secure the dryer duct, however, I drilled 4 small holes and used zipties & duct tape. I wrapped the duct tape around the outside of the modified snorkel to keep it sealed and looking decent. You will need to carefully close your hood several times to check the clearance on the flashing & snorkel against the hood.
Next you will use the 3” piece I said to save, you will use it to make a side curtain to block hot air from sucking around from the inside area next to the battery. You will need to remove the flashing to drill 2 holes into the main flashing & the 3” piece on the corners, that way you can use zipties to attach them together creating a box effect. You will also be drilling 2 holes on each side of the top of the flashing to create anchoring points to attach the flashing (see photos with my finger pointing to the zipties) Now re-install items together to confirm proper fitment, make any final trimming adjustments. At this point you are done!
The only other thing you may want to do is route some 3” ducting from the lower front bumper drivers side area next to the LICP. This is a great source of cold air to route into the AHASD. I routed two 3” ducts which don’t show in the current photos. I used cheap dryer duct due to the fact that the fancy stuff wasn’t available at the time of installation and it was way cheaper. I used some black spray paint afterwards to blend it in.
I hope this is useful.
Last edited by Sgt Blamo; Oct 9, 2007 at 09:13 PM. Reason: Because ah felt like it!
Oct 10, 2007, 06:16 PM
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Here are three more that two other and myself have made. Mine is the most simple. I put gold heat reflective tape on the "hot side" which isn't pictured...
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=291718
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=291718
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Oct 11, 2007, 07:41 PM
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Those are much nicer looking than mine, but the only thing i don't like is using metal as it tends to transfer heat & the thermoplastic doesn't. Also, don't forget to route in more outside cold air to the filter w/ additional ducting. You'll want to get the snorkel dumping right on top of the filter, IMO.
Oct 13, 2007, 07:43 AM
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Since I've made mine, I put heat reflective gold tape on the hot side of the shield. I also went to advancautoparts and bought a $2 flexable tube and ran it from behind the headlight into the area behind the shield 
After a long hard drive you can definatly tell the differance if you place your hand on the filter it actually feels cool, but place you hand on something on the opposite side of the shield and you burn yourself...
So these heat shields truley are effective! I'd suggest anybody who hasn't made one to go out and give it a shot!
After a long hard drive you can definatly tell the differance if you place your hand on the filter it actually feels cool, but place you hand on something on the opposite side of the shield and you burn yourself...
So these heat shields truley are effective! I'd suggest anybody who hasn't made one to go out and give it a shot!
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