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How To Repair Rock/paint Chips

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Old Jun 6, 2008 | 11:02 AM
  #1  
Methodical4u's Avatar
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How To Repair Rock/paint Chips

Ok so I had a few chips that I fixed on my car and tried to take some pics as I went along, but they turned out that you couldn't hardly see anything, so I just have a before and after, but I did my best so hopefully someone here can use this....

Materials: Paint, clearcoat ( if using ) alcohol or some type of cleaner for the chips, toothpick, new pencils, 2000 grit sandpaper, contact cement, meguiars fine cut cleaner, or an equivalent, microfiber cloths.

Here is the start...



It was under the door trim and I have no idea how it got there, but here is how to fix it up. First off, I have not used paint pens and heard from everyone on here that they are pretty worthless, so I went to paintscratch.com and bought the base, clear and lacquer thinner in 2 oz. bottles that all cost about 30.00 for 2 oz. which should be enough to fix chips for the life of the car.

So to start I took some of the thinner and cleaned the area of the car REALLY well with some cotton *****. I then use some rubbing alcohol and then wipe off the area with a clean cloth to get any residue off as well.

Open your paint and get just a dab of it on the tip of a toothpick, VERY carefully just put a small drop on the chip or chips. Once you do that, let it sit, DO NOT ADD MORE PAINT UNTIL IT IS DRY!!! The paint will shrink and will need several coats added to it.

After about 24 hours you should be good to go so if the car has been inside, and not driven, then just get a little more paint on the toothpick and do it again... wait another 24 hours. If you have clear coat, then use the last coat or 2 to build up the paint until it comes out slightly above the factory paint.. if you are not using clearcoat, then just continue with your base. After several coats of this, your paint will have a high spot above the factory paint... at that time it's time to get some more supplies ready..

Get out your pencils while you are waiting for the last coat to dry, use a hole punch or mark and cut out the 2000 grit wet/dry paper and glue it to the eraser with the contact cement. The next day it will be ready to go and we can start our sanding.

Ok, get in a comfortable position and VERY gently start to stand the high spots of the chip(s) don't press hard, let the paper do the work and just wait. I like to dip the pencil in water, or have a spray bottle to mist it... it helps to be able to use the paper MUCH longer. basically just sand down this spot, and dry it every 10 15 seconds to check to see if it is even with the factory paint.

Once you are satisfied with the height of it, you will have a white haze where you have sanded... but DON'T FREAK!! it will come out. Take one of your cloths and your meguiars fine cut cleaner, or whatever you are using. Put a little on the cloth and start in a back and forth motion lightly... after it starts to dry... wipe it off and check if the paint has it's shine back. Once it does then sit back and enjoy your work. I'd wait a few weeks before applying any wax over it to let it fully cure.

Here is how mine came out....

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Old Jun 6, 2008 | 11:17 AM
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DEL TURBO's Avatar
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From: Delaware
Looks good. I've used a paint chip repair product called Langka. It actually smooths the paint blob to be flush with the surface. Eliminates the need for sanding. I thought their claim was bs, but it does actually work well.
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