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AEM Tru Boost Gauge Install

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Old May 3, 2012 | 03:56 AM
  #46  
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From: Huntsville, AL
Originally Posted by 2004EvoVIII
mild thread revival here but I am having a slight wiring issue with my Evo VIII:

So I bought the car and the boost gauge would only light up when the headlights came on (perfect!) but I got a woofer installed and the guy said to me "Did your boost gauge light up before?" "ummmm...yea..?" "Well it doesn't anymore and their are wires but idk which is which so I left it." .........awesome.....
So I got behind the radio and under the dash and everything and found the ONLY two wires not connected to anything - I put them together and the boost gauge lights up! Only now it lights up constantly...even when the car is shut off. I believe it is now hooked into the radio "memory saver" wire. This is not really a huge problem since the boost gauge is an LED light and draws almost no power but if the car sits for 2+ days then it could become an issue.
If anyone has any pictures of where they wired or spliced in their boost gauge for it to light up that would be excellent! (2004 Evo 8 is my car).
I ran mine straight to the fuse box. Find a open slot there and use a red electrical connector with one "ear" cut off. If the gauge doesn't turn off with the ignition, try another slot. There is one that does on my IX.
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Old Aug 30, 2012 | 01:29 PM
  #47  
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From: Nj
Great write up! Thanks
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Old Sep 25, 2012 | 10:00 PM
  #48  
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Great write up, used this for my install just a few days ago.

There is plenty of wire and hose to feed it through the passenger side of the firewall, I found this made installation a lot cleaner.

I used an "add a circuit" to tap into the fuse panel for power to the gauge, so I didn't have to hack up the factory harness.

I mounted my solenoid on the frame right beside the factory solenoid. Clean the surface and stick it on with GOOD two side mounting tape. It's held fine for a few days now.

The last thing I have to do is get it dialed in properly! Currently running a 50% duty cycle, which is only yielding me about 10-12 psi. I haven't started fiddling with the WG crack pressure yet.

Awesome gauge so far, and it looks pretty slick alongside my AEM wideband mounted in the steering column pod!
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Old Sep 26, 2012 | 07:44 PM
  #49  
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Here's a BAD picture of my boost gauge and wideband.

I took a picture because I just rolled over to 72,000 miles! I've officially put 1000 miles on it since I bought it.

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Old Sep 30, 2012 | 11:17 AM
  #50  
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From: Eastern Pa.
Great write up! Ill be installing mine soon
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Old Nov 7, 2012 | 09:34 AM
  #51  
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So if I understand this correctly...I connect the Red and Black wire to the brown wires. I then connect the main black to a ground But I should then Tap 2 separate wires(to a 12v source) and to the one red wire that was already connected into the solenoid to power everything up am I right?
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Old Nov 7, 2012 | 09:41 AM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by STIKiller4G63
So if I understand this correctly...I connect the Red and Black wire to the brown wires. I then connect the main black to a ground But I should then Tap 2 separate wires(to a 12v source) and to the one red wire that was already connected into the solenoid to power everything up am I right?

yes the black and red two the teo brown wires on the solenoid, then the two remaining wires get tapped to a 12A power source. and the remaing black to a good ground.

http://www.aemelectronics.com/Images...%2030-4350.pdf

page 3
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Old Nov 7, 2012 | 11:44 AM
  #53  
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Can both of these power wires be connected to the same 12volt source or they have to be different?

Last edited by STIKiller4G63; Nov 7, 2012 at 11:52 AM.
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Old Nov 7, 2012 | 11:49 AM
  #54  
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same is fine, the one i help install, we connected the two red to eachother then tapped them into the clock power wire. still works fine
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