Evo 9: How to keep big battery with HKS IC piping kit
Evo 9: How to keep big battery with HKS IC piping kit
I’m in New Zealand so things are a little reversed compared to your USDM models.
This is really easy.
I have a big Orbital battery in my EVO 9 GT and wanted to keep it when I installed the HKS IC piping kit. It was a tight fit even with the factory pipe.
I firstly made a template of the bottom, top and side of the battery and worked out where it needed to sit.
I then removed the strut brace to make room to work
I then removed the factory battery tray, lined up the template and notched the sides of the tray.
I then drilled holes in the bottom of the tray and made up a new battery clamp to fit using large washers under the tray to support the clamp mounts.
I then extended the earths and used the after battery market terminals.
At the moment I’m using a bus bar off the second + terminal of the battery to attach the factory positive lead with the factor fusing. I do intend changing this and using some form of after market fuse block which then connects directly to the main + terminal to tidy it up.
The rubber shroud on the strut bar is good becuase it protects the + terminal
You will need:
Socket set
Solder
Soldering iron
Assorted ring terminals
Large washers
Hacksaw
Drill
Conductive material to make bus bar and material for batter strap
Potentially new battery hooks/rods
Assorted bolts and nuts
Power cable
Aftermarket battery terminals
Wire cutters and pliers
1-2hrs max



URL=http://img687.imageshack.us/i/img4158z.jpg/]
[/URL]
This is really easy.
I have a big Orbital battery in my EVO 9 GT and wanted to keep it when I installed the HKS IC piping kit. It was a tight fit even with the factory pipe.
I firstly made a template of the bottom, top and side of the battery and worked out where it needed to sit.
I then removed the strut brace to make room to work
I then removed the factory battery tray, lined up the template and notched the sides of the tray.
I then drilled holes in the bottom of the tray and made up a new battery clamp to fit using large washers under the tray to support the clamp mounts.
I then extended the earths and used the after battery market terminals.
At the moment I’m using a bus bar off the second + terminal of the battery to attach the factory positive lead with the factor fusing. I do intend changing this and using some form of after market fuse block which then connects directly to the main + terminal to tidy it up.
The rubber shroud on the strut bar is good becuase it protects the + terminal
You will need:
Socket set
Solder
Soldering iron
Assorted ring terminals
Large washers
Hacksaw
Drill
Conductive material to make bus bar and material for batter strap
Potentially new battery hooks/rods
Assorted bolts and nuts
Power cable
Aftermarket battery terminals
Wire cutters and pliers
1-2hrs max



URL=http://img687.imageshack.us/i/img4158z.jpg/]
[/URL]
Last edited by Bigdon; Mar 19, 2010 at 04:13 AM.
It is tight, but not as tight as you would think, the orbitals are big batteries though.
I thought about the boot (have done it in other cars) but I have a custom install for my subs mounted in a false floor (and amp on the back of the seats) in the boot. So the battery would have made it look untidy plus limited what I could get in the boot like my golf clubs and rifles.
Also means you don't have the added weight of the cable and mounting hardware.
I thought about the boot (have done it in other cars) but I have a custom install for my subs mounted in a false floor (and amp on the back of the seats) in the boot. So the battery would have made it look untidy plus limited what I could get in the boot like my golf clubs and rifles.
Also means you don't have the added weight of the cable and mounting hardware.
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