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Need help How to: innovative LC-1 install

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Old Mar 6, 2010 | 08:48 PM
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From: Hawaii *****!!
Need help How to: innovative LC-1 install

im having problems with the install

i have read innovative manual 100x

the xd-16 gauge is reading -.-.- which from my understanding is there is no signal my lc -1 came with 7 wire harness

red-power
blue- ground
white- ground
yellow- analog 1
brown- analog 2
green- analog ground
black- calibration wire

now i have the analog ground wired right now with the other grounds do you think that is the case?

i have pretty much tried everything
but i can also may have another issue, i bought this used and got from an evom member the cable from the lc-1 to the xd-16 he didnt send it so i bought some things from radio shack as an alternate.

i bought:
1 foot cable thats the normal head phone jack 1/8
then 2 converters to the smaller one 2/32


anything helps

thanks
sean
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Old Mar 7, 2010 | 03:14 AM
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Where did you wire up the power and ground? Also, to verify whether the gauge/lc-1 work, you can use the patch cable to connect them to your computer (lm programmer)
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Old Mar 7, 2010 | 08:26 AM
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i wired the gauge and lc-1 together the gauge has power so i know its getting power
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Old Mar 7, 2010 | 08:35 AM
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a. Red 12V supply
b. Blue Heater Ground
c. White System Ground
d. Yellow Analog out 1
e. Brown Analog out 2
f. Green Analog Ground
g. Black Calibration wire
4. Connect the RED wire to a switched 12V source in your car. A switched 12V source
goes on as soon as the ignition on the car is on. Make sure the connection is fused with a
minimum fuse size of 5A.
5. The BLUE and WHITE wires should all be grounded to the same ground source.
Optimally, these (and any other MTS device ground) will be soldered to the same lug, and
connected to a single point. When this isn’t possible, connect each one to a separate lug,
and attach in close proximity. Multiple lugs on the same bolt is not optimal, and can result in
unwanted signal “noise.” When possible, soldering is always better than crimping. Please
see chapter 2.3 for more information on Electrical Grounding Concerns.
6. Optionally, the YELLOW (Analog out 1) and/or BROWN (Analog out 2) can be connected
to the analog inputs of other devices such as data loggers, ECUs, or gauges. If either one or
both of these wires are not being used isolate and tape the wire(s) out of the way. The default
analog outputs are as follows: Analog output one is 1.1V = 14 AFR and .1V = 15 AFR. This is
a simulated narrowband signal. Analog output two is setup as 0V = 7.35 AFR and 5V = 22.39
AFR. Note: The LC-1’s heater ground and system ground wires should share the same
grounding location of the analog input’s ground. Refer to chapter 2.2 for recommended
wiring schematics.
7. Optionally connect a momentary push-button switch between ground and the BLACK
calibration wire. Please refer to section 2.1.
Note: The use of the calibration wire is not necessary if the LC-1 is connected to Innovate
Motorsports’ XD-16 digital gauge. If the wire is not are not being used, isolate and tape the
wire out of the way.
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Old Mar 7, 2010 | 08:39 AM
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From: Fort Washington Pa
1. Wire the LC-1 per the unit’s instructions
2. Connect the gauge’s RED wire to a switched 12 volt source
(ignition switched).
3. Connect the gauge’s BLACK ground wire at the LC-1’s
White ground point
. This ground point should ideally be an
engine block ground.
4. Connect the gauge’s BLUE wire to the LC-1’s Brown analog
output 2.
The gauge is setup to work with the LC-1’s analog
output 2 factory default setting of 0v = 7.35 A/F and 5v =
22.39 A/F.
5. Connect the PURPLE wire to a headlight power wire (a wire
that supplies current to the headlights). This enables the
display to dim for better nighttime viewing. DO NOT
CONNECT THIS WIRE TO THE HEADLIGHT DIMMING
WIRE. Connection to this rheostat type of switch will cause
the gauge to malfunction. If you chose not to utilize the
dimming feature, connect the purple wire to ground.
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Old Mar 7, 2010 | 08:42 AM
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From: Fort Washington Pa
I don't know man. I think you may be screwed. not sure about those other cables you're trying to use. I just skimmed over your post and assumed you had everything that came with the kit.
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Old Mar 7, 2010 | 10:17 AM
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From: Hawaii *****!!
the guage is the xd-16 it just has power and groung then 2 serial ports- in and out
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Old Mar 7, 2010 | 10:18 AM
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From: Hawaii *****!!
ill go over it again to make sure everything is right
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Old Mar 7, 2010 | 11:24 PM
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From: Altamont, Illinois
I had the same problem!, not to give u more bad news.. I couldnt figure it out=/
So i did the next best thing! Bought uego....
EASY instal started right up.
If u cant figure it out i would think about buying the uego. Best of luck!!

Hopefully you can figure it out :P

(my lc-1 is sitting in my closet, chilling... Liking the whole Zip lock baggy.) :]
Haha
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Old Mar 8, 2010 | 09:20 AM
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ya im about to post it on craigslist just to get it out of my sight. its coming out of the car tonight all that work for nothing. people need to make parts idiot proof. like me!!!
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Old Mar 19, 2010 | 02:42 AM
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Get rid of it and get an AEM wideband, i've installed the one you have in like 5 cars and they aren't worth the trouble
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Old Mar 19, 2010 | 05:11 AM
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AEM wideband is easier to install. Switch to that.
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Old Mar 19, 2010 | 05:37 AM
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have you tried plugging the either the lc-1 or xd-11 into your laptop? Clear the settings on both, that could be an issue. I had problems with my installation, and that was the culprit.

Sounds like you've given up. Don't be sheepish about calling innovate, they are very helpful.
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Old Mar 19, 2010 | 10:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Mark14
Get rid of it and get an AEM wideband, i've installed the one you have in like 5 cars and they aren't worth the trouble
^^^^ x2... Me and a few others I know of had nothing but issues with this kit
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Old Mar 19, 2010 | 05:38 PM
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i sold it and getting the AEM wideband. im not going to deal with problems i dont have the time. i read they were good but why make things so complicated
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