MarkS

iTrader: (4)

I might not be the best person to write this up... but when I had to replace my alternator there wasn't a whole lot of info on the subject .... and it was tough to figure out the best way to approach it.

Here goes.....

I heard you could take it out the drivers side... under the throttle body and out where the battery sits.... after an hour of taking that apart I didn't see it coming out that way past the motor that is back there... don't waste your time.

1. Take out the battery

2. Remove the passenger side wheel and have someone push the brakes while you break loose the big 32 mm axle nut. Then remove the brakes calipers... rotor... dust shield... etc... I double wire tie the caliper to the coilovers so its not hanging on the brake line.... you may have to loosen up the coilover/strut assembly to give you room to move

3. Undo the swaybar from the control arm and get the lower ball joint loose.... A rubber mallet helps.... it will fall ... but not far.

4. With all that undone you should be able to work the axle out and free it up from the hub.... you have to pry the axle loose from the tcase with a pry bar and I used the head of a hammer behind it to get leverage.... Don't pry on the cup that meets the transfer case... pry on the green bulb where it meets the cup..... I had a tough time with this until I got the position just right and it popped right off..... the car was on just the right angle that I didn't lose any tcase fluid either....

5. While you are down there.... I loosened up the exhaust at the test pipe/catalytic converter and removed my K brace that i have under there...

6. Take out the 4 pop screw thingys that hold that plastic panel on.... get your breaker bar on the tensioner and remove the belt.... loosen up the alternator... good to unplug and unscrew the wiring so it doesn't get damaged ...

7. Get that bolt out of the motor mount... you will have to raise the motor a little to get it loose enough to pull out..... with that out you can finish getting the alternator freed up .... once its out and sitting on the crossmember you can start raising the motor ... SLOWLY.... about 2 -3 inches worked for me and with the exhaust loose I was able to give birth to my 8lbs alternator right behind the oil pan!!

8. Install the new one and reverse everything.... Make sure you get the axle popped back into the tcase and the cup sits flush... this is a good time for a new tensioner and belt if you need it.

Hope this helps... Like i said before.... It might not be the best write up... but there wasn't much else out there when I did it....

Good luck
Mark

DeliriouS

iTrader: (1)

at no point did i have to mess with the motor mount, take off the axle, mess with the brakes or anything.

all i had to do was disconnect the charge pipe. take off the strut bar. take off the throttle body, because the anti-freeze hard lines were in the way. the shuffle the alternator out the driver side of the throttle body. thats it. i have no idea why anyone would take anything of of the drivetrain

j255c

Just wanted to also confirm that squeezing it under the intake manifold does indeed work. All you need to do is take off the charge pipe, battery, throttle body. Dont need to raise the engine or drop the axle. It was a major PITA took me 3.5 hours of cursing and retrying but it does work. GL

Czarcasm

iTrader: (18)

Wow.. I read a lot of threads where they take it out by getting rid of the axle. The charge pipe and tb way, I will write down!! Thanks fellas!

D-VO

iTrader: (1)

You really don't need to do all of that. The strut bar, loosen lugs (if you're using hand tools), lift the car, remove wheel, inner liner, serpentine belt, then loosen the alternator. Lower the car and play a little Tetris to take the alternator out from the top.

Coxor

Whaaa? Why remove the wheel if you took the alternator "out from the top" ...? Was that just to get at the alternator mounting bolts easier?

PS - I have to replace my alternator because it is overcharging (17 volts!). So, there are, like, 3 ways to do it from what I've read and I have no idea which I'll choose until I tackle this myself. Why can't things be easy!? I like the Tetris reference though... I'll play Evo Tetris soon... can't wait.

Hartless93

Can I get some more precise instructions, I'll be doing this tomorrow and I'd like it to go as smooth as possible.
P.S. I have access to a lift and many tools, also if you're in fort hood I'd greatly appreciate the help and knowledge.

gt50

iTrader: (1)

I am in the middle of this. None of the tricks worked for me. I have been working on this for 4 hours and have about 30 minutes to an hour needed to finish everything.

I tried passing it under the intake, and removing the motor mount and lifting the engine. I tried pulling it between the intake and shock tower. Close but not quite on each try. I have a 2003. Then I decided to pull the axle. I have never done it on this car. I tried removing the bolt for the ball joint. I could not get it out of there. I tried for over an hour.

In the end I removed the two bolts that connect the hub to the shock. I use a jack to support the assembly and popped the axle out of the hub. Then I used my useless ball joint splitter and a hammer at about a 45 degree angle to tap the axle out of the transfer case. I tried pulling it out since my engine mount was already loosened. That did not work. The downpipe was in the way. I then unbolted the downpipe from the o2 housing and removed the two hanger bolts near the cat and the two frame support bars. It might have come out without raising the engine but I managed to get the alternator wedged under the engine on the last attempt. I jacked up the engine again and it fell out. The new one went in very easily. I put the top bolt in then lowered the engine to put in the bottom one.

I am out of day light, so I will probably finish this in the morning.

DeliriouS

iTrader: (1)

When you tried bringing under the intake mani did you take off the throttle body? I admit that this is quite a PITA but I never had to touch the motor mount or axles when doing this. Removed charge pipe, removed TB and wiggled it under the intake mani. Took me a while to get the right angle but was a lot less hassle then the original write up

NJ_evoIXgsr

iTrader: (15)

I don't get why you guys are trying to reinvent the wheel. Please do a search and you'll find perfect instructions on taking it out from the top. I even included additional information to make it even easier. please search and make your life easier.

Hartless93

Finally got around to doing this yesterday, going under the intake manifold turned out to be quite easy. I removed the strut bar, charge pipe, and throttle body like some other people on here. I also took a small step further to disconnect more coolant lines, the EGR, and the shift linkages from the transmission which actually made a world of difference.

DeliriouS

iTrader: (1)

People wouldn't have to reinvent the wheel if certain forum advisers made sure forum followers like myself were fed the correct information to complete the task at hand.

Instead we have one jackass who thinks he knows what he is doing, and makes a sticky, because he is a parrot. That clown made it more difficult for me to attend to the task at hand than me guessing and figuring it out by myself.

Lesson learned: everyone on these forums are parrots, don't listen to some jackass who tells you to disassemble your rear end to fix something in the engine bay.

Aaaaaaaamen

jrainwater

iTrader: (10)

Lol @ the last post. So its the mods responsibility now to make sure all how-to's are 100% correct and the easiest method huh? News to me. If you don't know what you are doing and have to rely on a how to maybe you shouldn't be doing it yourself to begin with??? The how-to threads are nice and offer a reference guide to what is/might be needed to fix or replace something. No one put a gun to your head and said "do it this way!!!" If the instructions were off or wrong you should have been able to figure that out while you were working on the car. Take some responsibility for yourself for gods sake and grow up a little while you're at it. You're exactly what's wrong with this country these days. Everyone thinks that the world owes them something (entitlement generation) and that they can do no wrong. "Hey, if something gets messed up its the guy next to me, not me, I swear....." I'm sure when you were playing little league they didn't keep score and everyone got a participation ribbon too right???

DeliriouS

iTrader: (1)

Yes and no. You took it a little further than point intended. Should the moderators be solely responsible for every threads authenticity? For the most part, yes.

If you are a moderator then your job should be more than just making sure there is no ****, harsh language, illegal activities etc. Especially on a big forum like this. I'm not saying you should be a mitsu engineer to run this site, but you should have quite a bit of knowledge of the car. Therefore monitoring people that make write ups to ensure they are correct is an important task. That should be the majority of of your job.

People who don't have an evo manual or enough money to pay a mechanic, for the most part rely on the authenticity of the forums write up. To not take any responsibility for that would be ignorant and pathetic. And if that's the way you guys run this site then holy sh*t.

So if I write a thread that says - take a 12v power source and run it to a certain lead off the ecu, that will destroy the ecu, your forum will promote it? You won't investigate it and make sure it's the correct method or safe? That doesn't make any sense to me.

I'm going to run a laundry forum and not say anything about a person promoting the use of bleach and ammonia in a combined form. As long as my site gets traffic, I won't check if it's safe or correct.

Needless to say if you run a highly respected and followed forum, the moderators should make sure the information shared is accurate. That's it. Not the easiest, not the most efficient, but the most correct and safe way. It is your responsibility. Period.

jrainwater

iTrader: (10)

Thanks for proving my point for me there