I have the original posting at :

http://www.***************/forums/sh...ad.php?t=53124

If you'd like, I could copy-paste the contents to this post, too, if it works better than the link : )

 

bad link brotha

 

Please, seeing how the link doesn't work...LOL

 

Theres a link to a different write-up in the sticky too.

 

Looks like "Evo X - Forums" is a banned word. It sounds pretty aggressive to me. After all, we're not 'owned' by a forum or another..

 

HERE

I was doing it already, I thought I might as well take a few pictures in case someone would like to see. I'm sorry for bad pics; could not stick my camera in the wheel-well with my tele-zoom lens, and other lenses were upstairs :P

You can do the whole job yourself. Keep in mind, depending on what method you use, you might need an additional person for the bleeding/flushing.

*** Please let me know if you see anything that needs to be improved in the instructions ***

What you need:

• SS-braided brake lines: I used Stoptech's. I was not extremely happy, but I guess the other brands are not much different, either (More on that later).
• Brake fluid: You will need to bleed it since you're opening the lines. I won't cover this since it is already covered by another write-up. I flushed it, and since I used ATE Super Blue, I knew exactly when I started seeing my new fluid, so did not waste much. 1 liter was enough for me, but I'd at least have 2 liters for over-flushing or future use during bleeding. FYI, I bought 12 1-liter cans :P
• 10mm (line) and 11mm (bleeder) Flare nut wrench: This is A MUST! WITHOUT IT, YOU CAN STRIP THE STUPID BRAKE LINE NUT!
• 12mm and 14mm wrenches or sockets: We need them for factory tie-down bolts and the caliper bolt. Ratcheting socket driver would be best.
• Water spray: Once you open the lines, brake fluid will start dripping around. It is highly corrosive. One way to cope with it is spraying water on wherever it drips so it gets washed out and diluted.
• A drain pan/tray for brake fluid: I used a small oil pan for the job.
• Needle-nose plyer: Needed to remove tabs. You could use a regular plyer or even a screw driver to do the job, too.

Loosen your lug nuts, jack your car, and take the wheels off:
The brake line connects from the brake line to your caliper. I have circled the connection to the hard line (rear wheel) in this pic below. I started from the rear wheels since they're simpler. They are the shorter lines that came with the kit.


Start from either the hard line or the connection on the caliper:
Put a tray or pan below so you'd contain any brake fluid dripping. The caliper bolt is 14mm, and the hard line is 10 mm. IMPORTANT: YOU NEED TO USE 10mm FLARE NUT WRENCH FOR THE HARD LINE!!

You need this or risk stripping the nut on hard line!


Hard line:
Loosen the flare nut first with your special wrench. Then pull the tab off with the plyer and then disconnect the rubber line. Remember to NOT discard the tabs; you will re-use them to fix the new lines to their position.


Caliper connection:
I used a simple 14mm socket to unbolt the original line. The new bolt that came with Stoptech kit uses 12mm bolt. Don't forget to put washers on both ends of the connection. Once everything is connected, REMEMBER TO SPRAY WATER AROUND! Don't let the brake fluid eat your caliper / body paint! The brake line kit should specify the torque values.


Suspension tie-down:
EVO brake lines have nice suspension connection points. The SS brake lines also come with the same. Just bolt them on exactly like stock rubber lines are. It was a 12 mm bolt holding such tie-downs.


Front: It already comes with hard lines half-way through!
EVOs come stock with a pretty decent set-up for brake lines. At the front, from the suspension joint all the way to the caliper (which is the most important part) is hard line already! I'm actually very disappointed that Stoptech decided to ditch this very nice hard line and replace it with obviously inferior SS-braided flex line. They could very easily come up with a kit that just replaced the remaining rubber section of it!


Remove the hard line and caliper connection:
Before you do so, take a good look at how the line gets routed. Just remove the tabs, hardline and caliper connections as we did for rears.


When finished, it should look like this:
Look how nicely the factory tabs / suspension tie-downs route the line to calipers; beautiful! Just like how the stock set-up was, the extra length should be by the hard line side. In fact, the line between suspension tie-down and caliper does not even move: remember, there was a hard line from caliper to all the way to the tie down!


Next step is bleeding / flushing
You may refer to the threads about bleeding brake lines for more info on this. Since it is covered already by others, I don't need to cover here

By the way, if your garage lighting is not good, use a 'good' flashlight!
It handily provides 3000 lumens for those times you can't see something, or just want to blind someone


Enjoy your new stiffer brake pedal!

 

nice link ! i will be using this soon. thanks.
now the problem is which SS line kit are people getting?

 

Evo 8/9 do not have this. It's rubber lines all the way on all 4 corners. Install is the same though.

 

Indeed, this is the wrong location for this post and it should be moved to Evo X. I will ask an admin if s/he can help

 

I'm doing my AMS SS brake line install tomorrow. The rear's look **** simple but im looking at my lines and at your pictures. Why do my lines seem so short? Does it only replace the part running from the caliber to the joint? or from the top hardline to the joint, sure doesnt look like it replaces the full thing as you said yours didnt. Just the pictures are throwing me off.

 

Cool!

 

Great Job!