Ok so now that ive gone through 4 AC compressors in 40k miles on my evo i am resorting to the help how to section. But first of all i have bought new ones each time from the dealer, not refurbished, and everytime i replaced it i had it professionally vacuumed out and filled to the correct pressure by a certified reputable shop. I had the lines cleaned and have done everything correctly. The ac compressor is failing under full throttle runs at high RPMS. The pulley locks up and breaks the accessory belt. I was told by one person it may be the belt tensioner but i was wondering if anyone else had this problem. Oh and btw i live in florida so i NEED AC!

 

sounds like a stuck autotensioner

 

i have this same problem i killed 2 ac compressors last nite while doing some power pulls with my car is there some way this could be avoided or is there some sort of upgrade part i can put on

 

I would think your A/C compressor should free spin since the clutch is disengaged, unless you're doing wot pulls with your a/c on, which I wouldn't think you would do. Are these new compressors coming with new clutch assemblies? Have you ever had a failure in your A/C system before? If you have you may want to replace your condenser and evaporator as there maybe contamination or debris in them that just putting a vacuum on the system will not get to.

 

are you guys tuned? the a/c should shut off after a certain rpm and throttle position. if its staying on at wot and 7,000 rpm thats your problem.

 

the ac was off when i was doing WOT pulls.. they were complete ac compressors that where swapped, no i never had this problem before, i recently upgraded my turbo to the gtx3582 and running about 28psi, The ac compressor is failing under full throttle runs at high RPMS, I smell the rubber from the belt then it pops and my ac compressor bearing & clutch gets damage

 

Yes I am tuned on aem stand alone. I would never do a wot pull with the ac on. And even if I did it's got a cut of switch. I've replaced the entire ac system. Right now I am just running the ac delete belt. I am going to try to replace the tensioner next other than that the only thing I can think of is the pulley can't withstand over 8k of rpm

 

You need to swap driers anytime you do ac work or your wasting your time and leaving crap in the system Just beacuse you engine can rev past 8k--doesnt mean the rest of the components can take that kind of abuse and this goes for the ac and likey the belt tensioner. So replace the drier--tensioner and stop reving to/past 8k and my guess would be problem solved. Something else tells me this isnt going to work for you though. Good luck with it.

 

I'm having this same problem. Stop revving past 8k rpm can't possibly be the answer huh? So no one with the ability to rev high has AC anymore? I like my AC but the damn clutches aren't cheap and I've blown up 2 in a couple if months. Does anyone else have any ideas? It is it a choice between high revving and AC?

 

How does the compressor go to sh*t if its not on? Pulley free spins on the clutch, it seems you have other pulley issues, tensioner?

 

Are you using an OEM accessory belt? I've noticed the ones from the auto parts store fits way to tight

 

I was looking into this from Zeitronix. It automatically shuts off the a/c compressor when it sees more than 60% throttle and keeps it off for an additional 6 seconds

http://www.zeitronix.com/tcac/tcac.shtml

 

I've ordered that part from zeitronix and a new AC Compressor clutch. I'm out of town but will be putting this stuff on when I get back. Hopefully this keeps me from tearing up any more AC compressor clutches.

 

Sounds like the stock A/C clutch can't free wheel at that speed without gaulding the bearings, causing it to freeze, then blowing your belt due to the high heat generated by sliding over the frozen pulley. You may want to start looking into aftermarket compressors, or just clutches/pulleys if you can find them. I have no experience in what's available in the aftermarket. You could also look into an oversized pulley. It may make your A/C system less efficient at idle, but it also won't spin as quickly when you are near redline, possibly saving it.

 

This is the best answer so far in theory. If the belt tensioner is too tight while WOT and High RPM's I would also consider changing that as well because it can be applying higher loads to your Alternator bearings and Power Steering pump. Good luck because no AC sux in high temp areas.