Help: My evo keeps killing ac compressors!!
you can dictate at what tps % and rpm to disengage and re engage
Feb 18, 2016, 08:27 AM
#17
I'm having the same problem . Anyone figure this out . I'm on my third compressor 
the ac was off when i was doing WOT pulls.. they were complete ac compressors that where swapped, no i never had this problem before, i recently upgraded my turbo to the gtx3582 and running about 28psi, The ac compressor is failing under full throttle runs at high RPMS, I smell the rubber from the belt then it pops and my ac compressor bearing & clutch gets damage
Aug 30, 2016, 05:59 AM
#19
The same thing happened to me, only I lost my whole engine because of it.
Yea, guy I bought it from didn't have a lower timing cover on the engine
It does now though...
I have a brandnew Napa compressor and dryer on the floor in the back seat, but from what I'm reading it's just going to fail again. Last one was oem.
This also seems to happen to cars that not only rev over 7k rpm but to cars with over 500hp.
Ac was just fine forever, as soon as I retuned to 40psi on 6266 shortly after the compressor pulley broke and killed both belts.
Yea, guy I bought it from didn't have a lower timing cover on the engine
It does now though...
I have a brandnew Napa compressor and dryer on the floor in the back seat, but from what I'm reading it's just going to fail again. Last one was oem.
This also seems to happen to cars that not only rev over 7k rpm but to cars with over 500hp.
Ac was just fine forever, as soon as I retuned to 40psi on 6266 shortly after the compressor pulley broke and killed both belts.
Last edited by Migsubishi; Aug 30, 2016 at 06:51 AM.
Aug 30, 2016, 06:37 AM
#20
Me too man ! I'm on my third one !
The same thing happened to me, only I lost my whole engine because of it.
Yea, guy I bought it from didn't have a lower timing cover on the engine
It does now though...
I have a brandnew Napa compressor and dryer on the floor in the back seat, but from what I'm reading it's just going to fail again. Last one was oem.
This also seems to happen to cars that not only rev over 7k rpm but to cars with over 500hp.
Ac was just fine for ever, as soon as I retuned to 40psi on 6266 shortly after the compressor pully broke and killed both belts.
Yea, guy I bought it from didn't have a lower timing cover on the engine
It does now though...
I have a brandnew Napa compressor and dryer on the floor in the back seat, but from what I'm reading it's just going to fail again. Last one was oem.
This also seems to happen to cars that not only rev over 7k rpm but to cars with over 500hp.
Ac was just fine for ever, as soon as I retuned to 40psi on 6266 shortly after the compressor pully broke and killed both belts.
Jul 8, 2017, 08:02 PM
#24
Evolved Member
Read through this several times and I think your installers are not giving you the whole story. If a compressor has turned its insides into aluminum jello and pumps that stuff through the system flushing is not a fix. However, the alternative is so expensive most people will not agree to having the work done. So ask if the system has been contaminated with metal particles.
Last edited by barneyb; Jul 10, 2017 at 05:30 PM.
Aug 16, 2017, 02:20 PM
#25
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Mine caught fire around 45k and tried to stop the car as it was locking up the acc belt. It was not on, and happened around 5k rpm with some extra vibration in the rev range. This turned into a ssssk ssssk sssk ssssk rotating dragging sound and then the car began trying to jerk to a stop. The idle lurched on the side of the road and it was shooting sparks and fire out of the compressor.
Solution;
Removed A/C compressor - bought smaller acc belt.
Never reinstalled A/C.
If you look in the help and tuning threads whether it's issues with the car idling or driving when the AC is on, or this one where people have grenade'd multiple compressors... It really seems like it isn't meant to be.
Even before the mods started piling on... the car ran like crap with AC on. After removing it... I realized it ran like crap with it just "there".
It sucks in July/August. That's about it.
Solution;
Removed A/C compressor - bought smaller acc belt.
Never reinstalled A/C.
If you look in the help and tuning threads whether it's issues with the car idling or driving when the AC is on, or this one where people have grenade'd multiple compressors... It really seems like it isn't meant to be.
Even before the mods started piling on... the car ran like crap with AC on. After removing it... I realized it ran like crap with it just "there".
It sucks in July/August. That's about it.
Aug 19, 2017, 06:55 PM
#26
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Is there an option to put a lightweight pulley or even a bigger one? Keeping in mid that a bigger pulley will spin slowly than the OEM one.
My experience, just remove it. You will save apron 30 pounds (including Fan and radiator)
Greetings!
My experience, just remove it. You will save apron 30 pounds (including Fan and radiator)
Greetings!
Aug 20, 2017, 01:39 PM
#27
I have seen nothing in the aftermarket regarding oversized A/C compressor pulleys, but GFB makes and under-drive (smaller) crank pulley, which slows down all of your accessory drives. Problem with that solution is the under-drive pulley is solid, so there's no vibration dampening in it.
A convoluted solution could be to run an A/C delete belt when at the dyno/strip/whatever, and run a factory sized belt for every day driving. Not perfect, I know...
A convoluted solution could be to run an A/C delete belt when at the dyno/strip/whatever, and run a factory sized belt for every day driving. Not perfect, I know...
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