I just dumped the tcase fluid because I had the loud whine. Sure enough I have a burnt tcase, all sorts of shiny fluid came out! I'm pulling that this week and while I'm at it I'm going to pull the trans to get rebuilt since some of my syncro's are shot.

My question is what do I need as far as gaskets, parts, etc. when the rebuilt trans and new tcase go back in? Obviously I know gear oil and diaqueen or whatever it's called, but is there any seals like the one going to the drive shaft that I should be replacing while it's all out?

05 Evo 8 SE 27k original miles fully bolted, cammed, and tuned for 92 (I know, but there is no 93 around me). Around 365 at the wheels.

Thanks in advance!

 

if ur getting it rebuilt, the builder usually puts new seals in there for u. the only one that is important is the little o-ring in between the tcase and the trans upon re installing.

also try not to jab the axle in or you might damage the inner seal of the tcase or axle seals.

theres really nothing u need if both are getting sent to be rebuilt.

 

^what he said AND a slide hammer will be your best friend to get the stub axles out.

 

All great information, thank you! Anything else I should be replacing/ upgrading while this is all torn apart?

My goal is this to be my autox car. I enjoy drag from time to time, but my main focus will be autox.

Thank again!

 

If you drop the subframe when you do the install, do the Whiteline steering precision kit while it's out. Check your inner tie rods and ends. My tie rod ends were shot around 80k. If you order them, get OEM or search around for the proper number. If you buy them from an auto parts store, they'll sell you Lancer parts. They won't fit.

 

From what I've read the job is a lot easier after dropping the subframe. Is everyone in agreement with this or am I going overboard on work doing this? Keep in mind the end goal maybe replacing those bushings mentioned above is alone worth dropping the subframe. Thanks again, keep the suggestions coming. I'm completely new to the evo, AWD, and to some extent FI vehicles so the more information I can get the better!!!

 

Drop subframe it gets esier

 

imo i wouldn't drop the subframe but to each his own...i can pull a long block in just shy of 4 hours and a trans and tcase in half that without subframe removal.

with that being said the hardest thing to access again "imo" with the motor and trans intact is the firewall matting or rear motor mount (if you go solid and are wanting to shed some weight that is) both make a significant difference and are a complete pain to remove with the trans in. Also, if you haven't already dropped the tcase something i do to speed the process up a bit is take the cover off of the rear tail shaft of the tcase it makes a world of difference sliding it in and out and also read up on proper fill procedures go here: http://www.jackstransmissions.com/pages/t-case-filling

good luck and welcome to the community