Paul

As one of your loyal subscribers, another well done VID

Joe

 

I've done this a few times and its a struggle. So, I decided to take a closer look at the FSM. Their transmission removal procedure is not located entirely in any one section - poor technical writing I suggest. Anyway, following their procedure allows the transmission to be simply dropped out or installed without interference. It calls for the removal of the radiator, the engine supported on an engine hanger (all four mounts are off), the driver's end of the engine pivoted forward and the bottom of the engine tilted forward. Since I hadn't completely removed the transfer case, part of the FSM procedure, I found I needed to pull the propeller shaft. I described the factory procedure I used on this forum and got a lot of amusing comments mostly centered around "that's way too much work".

Being an old man I use a little chain fall hoist for lowering and lifting the transmission. Being able to simply slide the transmission under, hoisting it to the proper level and stabbing it seems worth the extra work to me. I never heard of any other DIYer doing it this way, but it made the job a pleasant experience. On the other hand, I have a fancy (and somewhat expensive) engine hanger that supports both engine and hoist.

 

Well, I thought it was easier to remove the front subframe completely rather than have it in place and work around it. I am willing to try the methods here to see if they cut down on time and effort.

 

I can see how that make sense. Obviously this job is a decent amount of work no matter what, but i too seem to initially think, "well now thats too much work" lol. I usually try to get a job done with the lease amount of tools possibly. But thats probably just out of stubbornness. Sometime you should just buy the right tool to do the job right even if you might only do the job once.

This is something i may try for re-installation. I can certainly see the hoisting of the trans saving a lot of headache.

 

I've never done it. Isn't the steering rack a PITA to disconnect?

 

I've never removed the subframe. Once removed, it does simplify things, the transmission overhangs and lives above the subframe. You do have to be able to handle that large and heavy subframe assembly.

My car is sixteen years old and the bolts that attach the subframe thread into caged nuts in the frame. On a sixteen year old car there's a chance rusty bolts will spin the nuts in the frame rather than unthreading. So, my feeling is, on an old car, unless those bolts have previously been out and seen maintenance, don't go there unless you have to.

 

In general, it's not a difficult process. However, I do understand that people that live in the rust belt can develop rust and corrosion in the sheet metal. Which makes the front subframe difficult to remove.

The top tips would be to make a mark or lock the steering wheel when removing the steering rack linkage. Then remove the bolt and push up the spring clamp with some pliers. I have also seen the steering rack unbolted from the subframe and left in the engine bay while the front subframe is removed.

 

Great video and hope you produce more evo content, I am now subscribed.

 

Great video. Thanks for making this and many of your other videos/howto’s .

FYI, you dont have to remove the speed sensor. In fact its probably easier to just leave it in. Going off of memory, the harness connects to a “short mini harness” that connects to the speed sensor on the transmission and i believe another item as well. Just removing the main harness from it you leave the rest of the wiring on the transmission as is.

 

 

Great video! As someone who just bought a project car, this'll come in clutch! 😏

 

Nice! evo 8 or 9?

 

Can anyone tell the me the torque needed for these two bolts? I installed the STM sealed catch can on my Evo 8 transmission but can't find the values. I've looked everywhere and even called STM to no avail. Thank you!!