[video] - evo 8/9 transmission removal
The following 5 users liked this post by DontStopMe:
2006EvoIXer (Jan 30, 2019),
deylag (Jan 23, 2019),
MinusPrevious (Jan 19, 2019),
Name User (Jan 22, 2019),
osetsky (Jun 22, 2019)
#3
Evolved Member
I've done this a few times and its a struggle. So, I decided to take a closer look at the FSM. Their transmission removal procedure is not located entirely in any one section - poor technical writing I suggest. Anyway, following their procedure allows the transmission to be simply dropped out or installed without interference. It calls for the removal of the radiator, the engine supported on an engine hanger (all four mounts are off), the driver's end of the engine pivoted forward and the bottom of the engine tilted forward. Since I hadn't completely removed the transfer case, part of the FSM procedure, I found I needed to pull the propeller shaft. I described the factory procedure I used on this forum and got a lot of amusing comments mostly centered around "that's way too much work".
Being an old man I use a little chain fall hoist for lowering and lifting the transmission. Being able to simply slide the transmission under, hoisting it to the proper level and stabbing it seems worth the extra work to me. I never heard of any other DIYer doing it this way, but it made the job a pleasant experience. On the other hand, I have a fancy (and somewhat expensive) engine hanger that supports both engine and hoist.
Being an old man I use a little chain fall hoist for lowering and lifting the transmission. Being able to simply slide the transmission under, hoisting it to the proper level and stabbing it seems worth the extra work to me. I never heard of any other DIYer doing it this way, but it made the job a pleasant experience. On the other hand, I have a fancy (and somewhat expensive) engine hanger that supports both engine and hoist.
Last edited by barneyb; Jan 22, 2019 at 03:01 PM.
#5
I've done this a few times and its a struggle. So, I decided to take a closer look at the FSM. Their transmission removal procedure is not located entirely in any one section - poor technical writing I suggest. Anyway, following their procedure allows the transmission to be simply dropped out or installed without interference. It calls for the removal of the radiator, the engine supported on an engine hanger (all four mounts are off), the driver's end of the engine pivoted forward and the bottom of the engine tilted forward. Since I hadn't completely removed the transfer case, part of the FSM procedure, I found I needed to pull the propeller shaft. I described the factory procedure I used on this forum and got a lot of amusing comments mostly centered around "that's way too much work".
Being an old man I use a little chain fall hoist for lowering and lifting the transmission. Being able to simply slide the transmission under, hoisting it to the proper level and stabbing it seems worth the extra work to me. I never heard of any other DIYer doing it this way, but it made the job a pleasant experience. On the other hand, I have a fancy (and somewhat expensive) engine hanger that supports both engine and hoist.
#7
Evolved Member
My car is sixteen years old and the bolts that attach the subframe thread into caged nuts in the frame. On a sixteen year old car there's a chance rusty bolts will spin the nuts in the frame rather than unthreading. So, my feeling is, on an old car, unless those bolts have previously been out and seen maintenance, don't go there unless you have to.
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#8
Evolved Member
iTrader: (23)
In general, it's not a difficult process. However, I do understand that people that live in the rust belt can develop rust and corrosion in the sheet metal. Which makes the front subframe difficult to remove.
The top tips would be to make a mark or lock the steering wheel when removing the steering rack linkage. Then remove the bolt and push up the spring clamp with some pliers. I have also seen the steering rack unbolted from the subframe and left in the engine bay while the front subframe is removed.
The top tips would be to make a mark or lock the steering wheel when removing the steering rack linkage. Then remove the bolt and push up the spring clamp with some pliers. I have also seen the steering rack unbolted from the subframe and left in the engine bay while the front subframe is removed.
The following users liked this post:
DontStopMe (Jan 26, 2019)
#10
Evolved Member
iTrader: (69)
Great video. Thanks for making this and many of your other videos/howto’s .
FYI, you dont have to remove the speed sensor. In fact its probably easier to just leave it in. Going off of memory, the harness connects to a “short mini harness” that connects to the speed sensor on the transmission and i believe another item as well. Just removing the main harness from it you leave the rest of the wiring on the transmission as is.
FYI, you dont have to remove the speed sensor. In fact its probably easier to just leave it in. Going off of memory, the harness connects to a “short mini harness” that connects to the speed sensor on the transmission and i believe another item as well. Just removing the main harness from it you leave the rest of the wiring on the transmission as is.
#11
Great video. Thanks for making this and many of your other videos/howto’s .
FYI, you dont have to remove the speed sensor. In fact its probably easier to just leave it in. Going off of memory, the harness connects to a “short mini harness” that connects to the speed sensor on the transmission and i believe another item as well. Just removing the main harness from it you leave the rest of the wiring on the transmission as is.
FYI, you dont have to remove the speed sensor. In fact its probably easier to just leave it in. Going off of memory, the harness connects to a “short mini harness” that connects to the speed sensor on the transmission and i believe another item as well. Just removing the main harness from it you leave the rest of the wiring on the transmission as is.
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