PRO-1 EVO Manifolds are coming back!

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May 10, 2005 | 03:38 PM
  #16  
8 hp? Got a dyno chart?
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May 10, 2005 | 11:00 PM
  #17  
a few members have posted their info on here.. so many sold and all have got the increase
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May 15, 2005 | 02:09 PM
  #18  
Can you ship one on Monday? I'll call in the morning my time here in Redmond WA but I want to make sure I have it by the weekend. UPS ground should do the trick provided it's shipped on Monday.

Will I be able to get to all the bolt heads with the radiator in the car?

Thanks,
Sam
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May 20, 2005 | 09:41 AM
  #19  
Thanks for the order SAM! MORE IN STOCK!
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May 20, 2005 | 09:47 AM
  #20  
Evo Sam- Do yourself the favor and remove the radiator.
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May 20, 2005 | 12:47 PM
  #21  
Got the header, no instructions (don't really need them) but it was supposed to tell me the bolt sizes to plug the holes. Little help?

I can't comment on the quality just yet as I haven't installed it, but the welds look very nice.

Thanks,
Sam
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May 20, 2005 | 12:56 PM
  #22  
M16x1.5 will do it. Oil pan plugs is what they are.
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May 20, 2005 | 01:05 PM
  #23  
Awesome, thanks for the reply. I wonder if they sell the oil pan plugs at Schucks? I assumed they were the same as the O2 sensor bung bolts.

Sam
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May 22, 2005 | 03:46 PM
  #24  
Okay, header is in. I set out to install this header, a Helix O2 housing, and a Greddy lower IC pipe this weekend. The header was the only item to fit like a glove and require no mods. The O2 housing bolt holes were too small and needed to be elongated to allow all 5 bolts/studs to fit. The Greddy lower IC pipe, aside from needing a hose barb added to it, didn't fit at all. The header was a breath of fresh air. Installation notes:

You will need to get some M16 X 1.50 bolts to plug the holes, oil pan drain plugs are what they are.

The driver's side stud didn't need to be cut down on mine but it might need to for someone else. I'm using shorter than stock studs as I am using a different turbo and I didn't re-use the stock ones. Once the stud is the right length, you'll need to put just a couple threads above the flange, just enough to get the nut started. Oh yeah, I couldn't re-use the washer on this one, not enough clearance with it. Anyhow, get the nut started then start the other nut and two bolts. I did this with the turbo hanging so life was easier for me. You will have to tighten the afore-mentioned nut before any others and continue to do so until everything is tight. Tightening the others first will force the nut into the tube and that would suck.

Sorry for my rambling, I'm trying to make some sense after a long weekend of messing with parts that didn't fit right.

The header WILL smoke on initial startup, this is normal. It looks very cool in there.

Sam
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May 22, 2005 | 06:30 PM
  #25  
what does the butt dyno feel after the install????
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May 22, 2005 | 09:08 PM
  #26  
Sam excellent write up and a pleasure doing business with you sir
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May 22, 2005 | 09:13 PM
  #27  
Quote: what does the butt dyno feel after the install????
Hard to say as I need to re-tune. I'm getting backfires between shifts but I can say spool up is quicker. It was quick before thanks to the TME turbo w/ the 10.5 housing, but now with the header and O2 housing it's even better. Next step is the lower IC pipe, it was supposed to happen this weekend but.....
Quote: Sam excellent write up and a pleasure doing business with you sir
Pleasure doing business with you too, I hope things are well in lieu of recent events.

Sam
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May 29, 2005 | 06:24 AM
  #28  
IN STOCK great fit & best price!
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Jun 12, 2005 | 06:56 PM
  #29  
any dynocharts yet on this manifold

Thanks
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Jun 12, 2005 | 10:50 PM
  #30  
Would getting the manifold ceramic coated get you any more power.
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